Working wheel combos with wide rear tires
I want to change my wheels to wider in the rear. What wheel combos are proven to work on c3's? Mine is a 1980 with 18x8, 0 offset, 4.5" backspace running 255-45-18 tires. However, I want bigger in the rear. I am looking for 17" or bigger wheels. Tires need to be z+ rated or high since this car will be race in various road races. I have found some good posts about it on here too. I am really curious about wheels with a 4" BS on the front and maybe a 5" on the rear?
Tell me your specs wheel brand/model - Wheel size - offset - backspace - |
Originally Posted by glarior
(Post 1579698395)
I want to change my wheels to wider in the rear. What wheel combos are proven to work on c3's? Mine is a 1980 with 18x8, 0 offset, 4.5" backspace running 255-45-18 tires. However, I want bigger in the rear. I am looking for 17" or bigger wheels. Tires need to be z+ rated or high since this car will be race in various road races. I have found some good posts about it on here too. I am really curious about wheels with a 4" BS on the front and maybe a 5" on the rear?
Tell me your specs Wheel size front street - 17 X 9 Kumho 255 45 Wheel size rear street - 17 X 13 kumho 335 30 Wheel size front slicks - 17 X10 295 Wheel size rear slicks - 18 X13 345 backspace - 4 front 4.5 rear all I will just tell you this from experience. If you are at all fast as a driver you can't race with street tires It will just destroy the best tires made in just a couple of sessions. The ultra high performance tires have to be shaved to very little tread depth to work. Unshaved the tread blocks lay over and actually get torn off. I punctured a rear slick in practice and instead just going home I threw on my 335 Kumho W or Y rated rears. it was harder to drive with less traction and they were destroyed before the end of the day Street tires cost more than slicks. slicks last much longer or the DOT race tires can even last a whole SCCA race year I had to a attend a SCCA instructors class. I did not want to take my Vette. I took the wifes new v-6 automatic Firebird. It's only improvement was improved stiffer struts and Goodyear KDW's 255's all the way around. All four tires went in the dumpster at the end of the day. I was depressed:( http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...Car79003-1.jpg http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...l/Car79006.jpg http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...Car79002-1.jpg |
I take it offset trailing arms? and other modification to fit that tire/wheel in there?
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Originally Posted by gkull
(Post 1579699048)
wheel brand/model -centerline
Wheel size front street - 17 X 9 Kumho 255 45 Wheel size rear street - 17 X 13 kumho 335 30 Wheel size front slicks - 17 X10 295 Wheel size rear slicks - 18 X13 345 backspace - 4 front 4.5 rear all I will just tell you this from experience. If you are at all fast as a driver you can't race with street tires It will just destroy the best tires made in just a couple of sessions. The ultra high performance tires have to be shaved to very little tread depth to work. Unshaved the tread blocks lay over and actually get torn off. I punctured a rear slick in practice and instead just going home I through on my 335 Kumho W or Y rated rears. it was harder to drive with less traction and they were destroyed before the end of the day Street tires cost more than slicks. slicks last much longer or the DOT race tires can even last a whole SCCA race year I had to a attend a SCCA instructors class. I did not want to take my Vette. I took the wifes new v-6 automatic Firebird. It's only improvement was improved stiffer struts and Goodyear KDW's 255's all the way around. All four tires went in the dumpster at the end of the day. I was depressed:( http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...Car79003-1.jpg http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...l/Car79006.jpg http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...Car79002-1.jpg |
On Your 80' You should be able to run a 275 Rear Tire front and rear with little or no modifications. I'd use 9.5" Rims. I used this Combo for 20 Years. Then I decided I needed to go to a 315 in the Rear. All I needed to do was install Offset Trailing Arms, A Duel Mount Spring to eliminate the Sway Bar, Spring Bolts up side down and 1 1/4" Fender Flares. You can get by with out the Flares if You don't mind the Tire being just a bit outside the Fender. If You use the Search feature above You will find a lot on this topic. Frame mods were popular a couple of Years back to match the offset Trailing Arms. I believe that this dosn't work on the 80'-82's. I have reduced the Back Spacing on my Car untill the Tire has rubbed the Inner Fender but it has never touched the Frame. Maybe should I say it touches both at the same time on my Car so to do a Frame Mod on my car would only work with Mini Tubing the Car, wich I have never done..
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Boss 338's
18X10 rear 18x8 front Tires: FR: 255/45ZR18 RR: 285/40ZR18 They're a bit on the heavy side, but I like the old school styling. |
Originally Posted by MotorHead
(Post 1579699397)
You know that tire wheel combo in only 25 in tall ? What do you have on the back ?
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....R8R6&tab=Specs The fronts are 25.3 or so..... That is why I have the adjustable QA-1 with up to 700 pound front springs. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....=yes&tab=Specs |
Originally Posted by RobbSalzmann
(Post 1579701785)
Boss 338's
18X10 rear 18x8 front Tires: FR: 255/45ZR18 RR: 285/40ZR18 They're a bit on the heavy side, but I like the old school styling. A little off topic from this post, but would you like to meet up here for this event? I will be motor homing to this event down your way for 5 days. http://www.westernpyro.org/ |
I am running 17x8" w/4" BS in the front on 245/45/17. In the rear I am running 18x9.5" w/5" BS on 285/40/18. They work great! Be sure to measure twice before you buy.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/pict...ictureid=77993 http://forums.corvetteforum.com/pict...ictureid=85792 |
Rob your car look amazing!
Those boss wheels is what I was thinking of getting too! Only difference is I like the gunmetal/gray color better for my car since its white. You have a 18x10 on the back... what was the BS and did you have to get offset trailing arms as well? |
I have HD trailing arms. Not offset. Many years ago when I was looking at tire rub marks on my upper frame rail it was not hard to determine that the limitation was the frame rails not the trailing arm offset.
I will agree that with offset trailing arms you could run a more than 4.5 inch BS wheel, But then you are trimming the ends of the springs for tire clearance and you would still have to limit vertical wheel travel to keep the tire off the frame under compression |
Originally Posted by glarior
(Post 1579715706)
Rob your car look amazing!
Those boss wheels is what I was thinking of getting too! Only difference is I like the gunmetal/gray color better for my car since its white. You have a 18x10 on the back... what was the BS and did you have to get offset trailing arms as well? I ended up installing longer ARP studs and I run a 3/8" spacer between the wheel and the rotor. without the spacer, the rear mono spring would just graze the wheel when the suspension loaded up. |
Okay, thanks for the information!
Glackore... sweet pic of the car in motion! |
Thx glarior! PM this guy - rebelrob. He has a sweet '82 with 18's all the way around. He can give you some pointers also.
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