Antiseize on Sparkplugs?
 

New (1 year ) to LS engines. Always used it on aluminum BMW heads/plugs. Service manual doesn't specify it. Searches give conflicting opinions. Yes or no and why please. THX.

I always use it especially on bolts to the heads. It keeps me from using a wrench when my fingers should be able to do the turning... :D

Yes, use it! The last thing anyone needs is to ruin the threads in the heads because the plugs got seized.

I don't know why your search would give conflicting opinions on the use of anti seize on the threads of the plugs.

I suggest using antri seize on the threads to keep the plug from
"seizing" into the threaded holes .
I hope this makes sense.
Good luck.

Did BMW recommend it for their engines? Several issues that take you both ways on using it. First, the plugs are supposed to be torqued to a certain torque setting, antiseize lubricates the threads so you stand a chance of over torquing the plugs and stripping the threads. Second, over long periods of time plugs that don't have anti seize on them tend to freeze into the threads and it gets damn tough to remove them. I stripped threads on one engine when I removed the plugs. I had to use an 18 inch breaker bar to loosen them and when I finally got them out there were aluminum shavings in the threads. Those shavings were the remnants of the threads from the plug hole.

You pay your money and take your chances. I would be more inclined to use it than not to use it.

Bill

I'm inclined to use it to prevent seizing or galling of the threads in the heads, but am curious as to the "collective wisdom" here.

I suppose if you are careful and avoid overtorquing you won't strip the threads.

Above replies
 

BMW service publications specify it. My experience includes (among others) the M88 3.5L 4 valve DOHC motor, and the M70 5L V12. All are iron block aluminum head motors. I'm inclined to use it-getting ready to change plugs, wires and coils. Just trying to learn more about the LS motors.

I had a repair place NOT put antiseize on the plugs of a motorcycle with aluminum heads. Less than 12K miles later I had two of the 4 plugs seized to the head. One I was able to get removed without damage to the threads. The other ended up taking the threads out when the plug came out.

Say what you will, I will ALWAYS use antiseize when changing plugs in an aluminum head. Perhaps if you are a serious racer and have plugs out every few weeks you can get away with no antiseize. Most change plugs every 50K mile. Plenty of time for heat and galvanic corrosion to do damage. You don't need to slobber it on heavy. A little goes a long way. Cost to pull the head and have it heli-coiled (assuming you don't do it yourself) is not inexpensive.

I agree with Bill.

I also torque my plugs (15Nm 11Lb-ft), and I use aluminum anti-seize.

Standard precautions, and work on a cold engine.

Thanks all
 

Antiseize=YES

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

Use antiseize.

I definitely use it on the threads only (not the seat). :yesnod:

Since it's pretty much impossible to get a torque wrench on these guys when re-installing, I tighten them as per one of the plug manufacturers' recommendations regarding tapered-seat plugs: 1/16th turn after seat contact and no more.

Use the anti seize!

If you want a reason talk to a Ford guy with a modular motor. :cheers:

If you go to NGKs website, they have some technical papers there that say not to use anti-seize on their plugs because they are coated with an anti-corrosion coating that is supposed to not allow the plug to seize. NGK does say to use anti-seize on plugs with the black oxide coating on the threads.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-...1antisieze.pdf

I put some new NGK plugs in my LS6 and decided to use a small amount of anti-seize for aluminum heads just to be safe. Torqued the plugs to the specified 11 ft-lbs and had no issues.

I can't really see where using anti-seize would ever cause a problem. So, I always use it.

always use it when working with aluminum

It doesn't matter if you use the correct torque, what matters is the steel plugs will be staying in the aluminum head for a long time and can very likely seize. I use anti-seize made for Aircraft applications and it is supposed to transfer the electrical current much better. That is the only negative I can think of against using an anti-seize.
The idea stated above about only working on a cold engine is very important to prevent taking the head treads out with the plug.

The factory service manual specifies to "apply a drop of engine oil" to the spark plug threads.

I decided to use a small amount of anti-seize instead, when I replaced my plugs. :thumbs:

use anti seize.