C4 Rear camber rod play
 

My yearly inspection was just done, and my mechanic was complaining that he was able to grab the rear wheels at 12 and 6 and move them a 1/2".

The wheel bearings are new, and he said he didn't think it was that. That leaves the bushings (new camber rods, with new rubber bushings, were installed recently), and the eccentric bolts at the diff as culprits.

Does this sound like a lot of play?

Yes, that is a lot. You should feel no movement.

He could not tell what was moving? Find a new mechanic.

Keep in mind the U-jointed shaft is a upper suspension member, although, play there, should have other symptoms as well.

I'm wondering if the alignment shop didn't tighten up the eccentric bolts.

That is very possible, torque spec. is 186 ft-lbs at least for my 93 on those bolts. They need to be this tight. I mark mine so I can see if they move.

Check your lug nuts as well. Sounds like this mechanic may not be too hot.

Dog bone bushings?

If the wheel brngs are tight....
Doubt if it's the camber rod ends

:cheers:

Who did the wheel bearings and how did they torque down the center nut?

:iagree: Good Point and did they replace the washer in there? What kind of wheel bearings are they?

I wouldn't think so. They're not supposed to provide resistance in that direction. If you needed the dog bones to resist camber deflection, rod ended trailing arms would be a disastrous application on the C4.

I did, they're nationals, and I torqued to the spec in the hanyes manual I have (164 ft/lbs).

But did you inspect them closely?
:cheers:

I'm sure they are good as well, as they are new. I'm thinking the eccentrics are the likely culprit. The more I think about it the more that seems logical.

I'll be over at the shop tomorrow, so I'll get a close look at it on the lift.

mechs are not having a good day in here today.

Then you have some mechanical skills, good. Jack it up and see if the technician is correct or if he was trying to mess with you.

Oops my bad I meant to say toe rod ends. :leaving:

Try wiggling the tire at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. This will tell you if the bearing is OK.

Wiggling at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock will tell you if the suspension is OK (assuming it passed the bearing test).

You should feel VERY LITTLE play and the two should be about the same (mainly because the play should all be bearing play -- the suspension should have no play).