ABS light on
 

My 2001 with only 42,000 mls, the ABS and Trac control light came on on the way home last week. The dealer says that I need to replace both the valve and module for a cost of about $4000. Has anyone ever heard that these parts needs replacing after only 42,000 mls. Another guy said that I should drive the car at 40 and then slam on the breaks, then turn off the car and restart. He seems to think that air maybe in the line and doing ths should clear it. What do you think?

I was also told about a web site that will fix your abs computer for $150
http://www.absfixer.com/catalog/prod...7c1gcbpop1df51

but what about the valve that I was told will also need replacing?
1. where is the abs computer and how ahard is it to be removed.
2. were is the valve also and how hard is that to be remove.

I not that great with working on my car but will give it a try. The price tag of $4000 is way too steep.

Pull and post your codes from the DIC. This will tell us what's needed to know.

$4000.00 DAM, I'll fix it for $2000.00 :rofl:check and see if it's a 1214 than ABS fixer to the rescue!

Help, Just installed new tires on my FRC C5 and everything was fine, washed and waxed car no problem, stalled car from dead stop and restarted while slightly moving, ABS and Trac control light came on. Turned engine off and restarted lights went off, drove it approx. 60 miles turned it off for about 4 hours started it and lights back on, drove it back home, turned it off and ABS/Trac lights off again, restarted this morning on again, wtf? Any clues people? Soft touch car wash really soaked car, could something be wet, vette was inside all day and night never in sun since wash.

Thanks I'll pull those codes tomorrow and post.

Codes pulled:

28-TCS: C1243 H, C1255 H
40-BCM: B2723 H
BO-RFA: U1255 H, U1096 H, U1064 H, U1016 H, C2100 H

Cleared DTCs and restarted motor, new codes:

28-TCS: C1255 h

BO-RFA: U1096 H, U1064 H, U1016 H

Clear codes again, locked vehicle and posting this, what do you guys think? Thanks!

ABS Light
 

Ok, sorry for taking so long to get back. I live in Fl and we had a lot of flooding so I could not get the car out. Anyway someone told me to drive the car @ 40 mph then slam on the breaks. Then turn off the car and restart. He said with only 42,000 mls on the car even if it is a 2001. It is more likely to have air in the line, and that should clear it. Well I tried it and for the past two days of driving the light has not turned back on. What do you think? Should I still take it to the dealer again?

Did you pull your codes using the DIC to do so yet? Those codes will tell what it was complaining about. Forcing the Active Handling to activate is a possible action to try but you could also do that by just simply spinning the wheels in some water. The codes will tell what's going on.

ok here goes.

codes from unit
28-TCS C1214H one code

A1 - RDCM 5 codes
B2283 H
B2285 H
B2265 H
U1064 H
U1096 H

AO - LCDCM 4 codes
B2282 H
B2284 H
U1064 H
U1096 H

60-IPC 2 codes
B0521 H
U1160

What do you think? Also the ABS light came back on, so much for air in line?

C1214 Sol Valve Relay Contact or Coil CKT Open
B2283 Battery #1 Fault
B2285 Battery #2 Fault
B2265 Horizontal Position Sensor Fault
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC

B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2284 Battery #2 Fault
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC

B0521 Tachometer Signal Circuit Malfunction
U1160 Loss of Communications with LDCM

Thank You. Now we have something to look at. First, your EBTCM needs a new relay within it. Next, get your battery up to full power, then clear all the codes, pull them again and see what comes back.

Thanks going to try and call dealer in the morning to see if they can check out the car. May have to wait a while, will let you all know what happens. As for the battery, I replaced it a while back when the car was failing to start. Maybe that is the history codes from the failing battery.

8VETTE7 is right on the money on this! He usually is too :)

ABS Light
 

Yes you are correct. One dealer qouted $4,000 out the door to replace the valve and computer. That price just didn't make any sense, Taking to another today that deals with corvette club members at a much better price, plus a warranty. I am not good with working on the engine, so will have to give them a try. I'll get back with results.

Listen carefully- If you replace your battery DO NOT use an Optima. They do not have enough reserve capacity. Either get a Sears Die Hard or an Odyssey (they make the Die Hard). It has plenty of RC and it cured my battery-related woes...that I did not know were battery related until I did some research and replaced my Optima red top with a good battery.

And, if you have the CLB installed take it out and throw it away. After you install the correct battery you don't need the CLB. There is some excellent information on this topic on the forums and the internet. I watched an awesome video of a Corvette technician explaining this whole concept of RC and the issues it caused, including how the CLB will kill your EBCM. Personally, I don't understand why the person who created the CLB hasn't been sued into bankruptcy for creating a product that did more damage than it ever helped to fix.

Do the research and fix your problems the easy and inexpensive way like I did.

I think you're confused. The current rumor is that the CLB kills the BCM (body control module) not the EBCM (electronic brake control module). In either case I'm pretty sure it's just BS. I cannot find even one case where this has been demonstrated and have personally run the CLB for YEARS in two different C5's without an issue.

If you know of a case where this has been proven please post the link so we can all be enlightened.

This has been debated at length on this forum and I've yet to see an argument for this that I'll buy into...

It's not a rumor at all. And, yes, I saw BCM and and I referenced the wrong computer. My bad.

You are just an ass. You already deleted one post in this thread where you were flat out wrong, and now you start this one. You have nothing to teach me junior.

I'm not normally a grammar Nazi, but you write like a 3rd grader.

Can you substantiate this? I am genuinely interested.

Watch the video. It's all there, with an explanation as to why the CLB kills the relay in the BCM. This video was taken at a GM conference, it's not something that some guy made up.

Which video?