Clutch selection for 525 ft*lb of torque
 

I'm looking for a street friendly (more than just on and off) that can handle about 525 ft*lb of torque. It looks like there is a wide range of prices for the same torque or power ratings. What's the difference between the cheaper clutches and the more expensive cluches (besides the price)?

SPEC Stage 2 Clutch
550 ft*lb rating
$390

Zoom Performance Products F2-70185
589 ft*lb rating
$430

Centerforce DF395010 Dual Friction Clutch
about 620 hp rating
$440

SPEC Stage 3
680 ft*lb rating
$450

SPEC Stage 2 PLUS
620 ft*lb rating
$450

Centerforce DF017010 Dual Friction Clutch
about 620 hp rating
$455

24255748 – LS7 Clutch
12571611 – LS7 Flywheel
about 525 rear wheel hp
$460

Ram Clutches 98931HD
Bearing not included.
slave 798-78165 or adjustable master 798-510 recommended
650 hp rating
$532

SPEC Stage 3 PLUS
850 ft*lb rating
$540

Monster Clutch Level 2
550 hp or ft*lb rating
includes flywheel
$630

Monster Clutch Level 3
700 hp or ft*lb rating
includes flywheel
$650

McLeod RST Twin Clutch
800 hp rating
works with stock flywheel
http://speed-eng.com/store/mcleod-se...o-p-10227.html
$689.99+free shipping
http://www.usaperform.com/mcleod-str...ne-p-1039.html
$698.50+free shipping

Manic ER2 Single Clutch Kit
700 hp rating
$755

Monster Clutch Level 4
700 hp or ft*lb rating
includes flywheel
$780

Monster Clutch Level 5
825 hp or ft*lb rating
includes flywheel
$880

Monster Clutch Level 6
900 hp or ft*lb rating
includes flywheel
$980

Textralia OZ-700 Singe Disc Clutch
650 whp rating
$980

I can not tell you any difference of them that you can not just read on their respective websites.

However, mine currently has a RAM HD, and I drive it pretty much just like a stock LS clutch. The only difference I really notice is that it likes a little more gas and has a stiffer pedal pressure, but it is not obscene and I can hold it in during traffic with zero tiring or other issue. I actually like the little bit stiffer pedal after driving for awhile. Oh, and I should mention my slave and master are GM.

I bought a Clutch from TPS a forum Vendor it is a Kevlar clutch and is good to 650 rwhp & rwtq I love the heck out of it holds up great for the same type of driving you do. Give Mike a call to get more info.

Pops

stock should do it
 

I'm hoping the correct answer is the RST, as I've just bought almost a thousand dollars worth of McLeod RST and flywheel. I'm waiting for a replacement torque tube before I can find out.

Most say go for the GM part off the zr1, I think its called ls7 , something like that . Specs and all are easy to find and it comes balanced with a flywheel. Most feel the GM part best for drivability and will go about 600hp no problem.

I went with the RST because I need a lighter clutch pedal push than stock. I hope drivability is still good. It's tough to know because most guys that buy a clutch are going to support the choice they just made.

I wanted to add that you need to know if your engine is zero balanced. I had to send my old clutch out with the new parts going to be balanced, to make sure the results match, checking for external balance weight . I was told that some of the early cars were not zero balanced at the flywheel, so that the newer factory part might not work as a direct bolt on as intended , as all the newer engines have no external balance. I just learned this from my mechanic last week end, I think I have repeated the info correctly.

Normally when I have that much power with an aluminum housing I get concerned about the clutch becoming a handgrenade. Not sure if they make a steel housing but check out Lakewood or loo at installing a blanket (similar to a bullet proof vest). I will let others weigh in on this, but I like my feet.

:iagree:

I have the same HD clutch after a recommendation from my local Corvette Shop. No issues after three years and I'm really happy with how it performs.

Just my $0.02

Where did you get the RST?

I have the Textralia.

It is no fun at all in stop-and-go traffic. It takes some technique to get the car away slowly. It launches the car just fine when you nail it. The thing begs to be driven hard.

My car makes just under 500 ft/lbs.

my next clutch would be an RST, i currently have a textralia OZ700. i like it, but it never stopped chattering for me. it's worth the extra for the drivibility

My vote is for the Monster Stage 2 Clutch. That's what I run on my H/C/I/E setup and I absolutely love it. Very nice street manners and it holds the power great :thumbs:

I run an ACT twin disk and like it however my buddies use the ls9r from katech and my peddle feels realy stiff to them...

Find some local modded gettes and ask to see if they ll let you feel the peddle...

I would seriously consider a stock C6 Z06 clutch for that HP rating, or if that's not enough, a stock ZR1 clutch.

From what I hear, both have excellent street manners.

Trust me - some of the higher HP rated clutches can be a real beotch on the street. High leg effort, and very "grabby" making it hard to launch without either stalling it, or lunging forward and chirping the tires.

The person that tuned my car said he has had good luck with the ZR1 clutches. I ASSUMED he was referring to my C5 Z06, maybe he was just speaking in general terms. We were talking about clutches for my car, so it was a logical assumption.

You didn't specify, when you said 525 ft/lbs of torque, I thought you meant engine output. Did you actually mean RWTQ? If yes, then we were talking apples and oranges obviously.

Regardless, talk to several people about whatever clutch you're looking at. Some clutches are not very street friendly, and are more at home at the track.

However, even *if* you end up with a sticky clutch, with time it's not hard to learn to drive. My clutch is one of the main reasons the former owner sold the car, however he was a MAJOR puss. After 3 days of driving it I had no issues with it, after a few weeks I love it.

The torque output is somewhere between 510-515 ft*lb at the rear wheels. I rounded up to 5-1/4 C in the subject.

I'm not sure what the torque losses are through the drivetrain. I'd guess the crank torque output should be between 540-575 ft*lb.

http://a3.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/i...08162d0a/l.jpg

Ok, then the obvious question is the ratings that you posted above, are they flywheel or rear wheel?

I believe (please verify) that GM parts direct says the stock C6 Z06 clutch is good for 650 flywheel torque.

They have an ad somewhere on here with the ratings. I'm pretty sure my number was accurate. If all else fails, just PM them.

Good luck

Here's my $.02

I'd stay away from the LS7 clutch. I have one and I regret it. I'm making 590rwtq and I can tell the clutch just isn't a fan, even with me on street tires. I'm afraid to take it to the track and put a decent tire on it.

Go for the spec stage 3. I should have went with my gut and knew I would keep modding when I did my original build when the clutch went in. It was originally a cam/head/full bolton car making 440/405 on motor. The clutch was perfect for that. But then I added nitrous and it made 540/590rwtq with spray.

The ls7 clutch has amazing drivability, but IMHO, you're taking away the durability.

I recently went to a Mantic ER2 Single Disc. Great clutch, no chatter and feels like stock. It was recommended by ECS and that's where I bought it and had it installed. :thumbs:

http://www.eastcoastsupercharging.co...keyword=clutch

:cheers:

Always replace the slave. With the OEM, the throwout bearing comes with the slave and they are more or less one piece. Considering you need to pretty much do a clutch job to replace the slave later, the 100$~ is worth the piece of mind knowing that its good to go.

The remote bleeder is personal choice. I didn't when I was in there last and I regret it. When it comes time for my clutch job I will be putting one in.

Here is my shopping list:

http://a3.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/i...5a0ed5a9/l.gif

McLeod RST
http://speed-eng.com/store/mcleod-se...o-p-10227.html
$689.99+free shipping

Tick Performance Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...to-ls1-f-body/
$49.99+$6.75 shipping

total $1303.25

Does this look like a pretty good setup?

My biggest concern is the LS7 flywheel. According to the McLeod website, the RST must be used with a LS1 flat style flywheel. Will it work with an LS7 flywheel? http://www.mcleodracing.com/products/RST+Twin+Disc.mcl
"Needs LS1 Flat style flywheel with this application."

If the LS7 flywheel doesn't work with the McLeod RST, what is the part number for the LS1 C5 flywheel? Could I use a billet steel Spec flywheel for $233.10 if I need an LS1 style flywheel. Is that a better opion?
http://www.tickperformance.com/spec-...-ls6-flywheel/