Aftermkt remote start has disabled my C4 &&^$##$%&(
 

Anyone familiar with a La-Z-Start system. I was cleaning behind my IP today, car has been running fine, I found this large remote start unit under the steering column (inside the LH lwr panel) and dis-connected it to remove it. I tried to start the car after that and the alarm went off and my key in the ignition has no affect on the alarm. I put the unit back in and disconnected the horns for now. Now, the engine turns over and stumbles, but wont start. There's 2 30 amp fuses that seem to open and close the pwr locks, and they started cycling by themselves and doing odd things. I got it to run for 3 seconds with the doors closed, but then the locks locked themselves and the engine shut off. Anyone know how I get this thing out of my alarm system? I don't have the FOB that came with it, I bot the car used and never got one. Don't have one for the car, either.

Update... I tried moving the dipswitches in the control unit and seems like they turn different functions off an on and I was able to get the car running again, but I still want that thing out of there. I think it messed up my tach and wont let my power locks work from the door buttons.

I would Google the Lazy-Start system and try to get the installation manual. Also get a FSM. Guessing will probably will get you into more trouble. Good Luck.

disconnect the battery, put everything back the way it was, reconnect, and all should be normal

Put the wiring back the way it was before the alarm, or put the alarm back like it was before I fooled with the alarm switches?

Today I stuffed all that crap back into the cover pnl and started the car and I heard a sound like the compressor running and the engine laboring, and white smoke poured out of the alternator around the white plug on top, and everything went dead. I think it engaged the starter while the engine was running, acted like the alt was shorted to ground?? Later I hooked up the battery and it wanted to start again??? I would just start removing the splice clips, but I'm not sure if the heavier gage wires are spliced in-between wires. All the thin wires seem to be clipped on their host wires, but some heavier wires are taped onto the car wiring, maybe inbetween? I guess I could try and see what happens, I'll just have to watch what I'm doing closely and get a wiring diagram. Thanks

If it were me, I'd remove the thing and return it to stock.

Aftermarket alarms & remote starters are horrible things to remove. You need to trace each wire individually. Some stock wires will be cut with the alarm placed in-between. You'll need to splice the two ends of the stock wire back together. No easy way to do this other than to trace each wire.

Thanks, I woke up today and got a fresh start on it. Just decided I was going to get it done, and went to work. I must have cut 7 plastic ties, and unwrapped 5 feet of electrical tape. All the wires were clipped to other wires except for the LH door lock wire, which was cut and spliced. There was one other cut and splice, it was a thin black w/white stripe wire. I rejoined those to their same color ends. Then there were 3 wires going under the console. I traced 1 to the rear hatch and 2 others are still attached to something, I don't know what yet, but one is red and one blue, and they are definitely not original. I'll have to pull the console to find the ends, maybe there's a hidden switch or something. But I'm glad I tore it all out. Maybe that's what just fried my alternator.

Before I tore all that crap out, and after I crammed it all back into the trim pnl under the steering wheel, I started the car and my battery light came on, the engine labored a little at idle, and white smoke came out of my alternator, then it died. It dead shorted to ground and nothing would happen when I turned the key on. So I tore all the wiring out that was part of the remote start and disconnected the voltage regulator plug on the alt and started connecting the battery with the ignition on and the starter engaged and all lights and gages came on (except the HVAC showed 3 dashes and the fan was running), but I pulled the batt cable away before it could start. I don't want to fry another alternator if there's still a problem, so I pulled the alternator and did a continuity check from the batt lead (that connects to the alt.) to the battery ground cable ground and got a reading of .9 ohms. How else can I double check the wires to the alternator before I install a new one? Should that red battery wire from the alternator show any continuity to ground, doesn't seem right? I connected the ohmmeter to the batt gnd cable (with batt. removed) and red batt. wire to alt. (alternator removed) and while it showed .9, I moved all the wiring around that I could get to and nothing had an affect. Any idea how can I test the wiring to the alternator before I install a new one so I don't toast it?

Update........ tonight I started checking the terminals at the junction block behind the battery (to try to narrow down my search) and it seems there are 2 terminals that have continuity to ground. Each terminal has 2 fusible links connected to it, and each terminal has continuity to one each of the cooling fan relay plugs. Is this normal? What else do these go to?

Sorry about how it turned out, but I should have said "the way it was from the factory".

You are at the place to look for fried wires and stuck relays.
I would guess that there is another added relay or two somewhere under the dash.
Corvettes come with starter disable relays and anti-theft logic for fuel.
If it all goes back to factory, there might still be an aftermarket logic module somewhere else. do a thorough search under the dash and under the hood for non stock wires.

I would remove the alternator and take it to autozone for a free test.
You don't need to go somewhere and have the alternator die.

Thanks, took it to Autozone last night and the tester wouldn't even spin it. I think it had a dead short to ground inside. Just need to find out what those 2 terminals are for that have continuity (with resistance) to ground, and if they are supposed to. I'm guessing there is a wiring diagram I need to find showing what attaches to the terminal block. I know these 2 terminals go the the fan harness, just don't know what else yet. I could leave them off and try to start it, too, and see what isn't working maybe.

Actually tore the alternator open tonight and noticed one of leads going to the triode was burned away, so that's the white smoke I saw come out of the alternator when the battery light was on. I'm wondering if anything in the starter solenoid can cause this and still operate the starter. One of the leads that had continuity to ground only has it when the ignition is in the on position. The other always does. I'm wondering if these are power supplies to motors or coils?? I connected the electrical system. I powered up the system and the terminal that only grounds with the ign switch had to be connected to power the harness, and everything powered up like it was supposed to, but I think I heard the power locks try to cycle, maybe something is shorted in there because they don't work from the switches.

Replaced alternator (with the cheap Valuecraft one nobody likes). Remote start went out in the trash. Covered all exposed Found a blown fuse for the locks (on aux fuse block), and replaced it, was probably caused by the remote start splice. Then found out the LH lock motor wasn't attached to the inside of the door and fixed that. Found out that the mystery wire coming from the junction block and hanging in the air, used to connect to a red wire coming from a fan relay (also hanging with the other end of the cheap burnt fuse holder still on it), and re-fused the wire to the block w/20amp fuse. Now all electrical works like it is supposed to (except the Bose, of course), and even the fans come on, amazing!! I'm finally making some progress!