Has anyone here actually used Hawk DTC30s?
 

With its wide temperature range, I'm considering some Hawk DTC30s. They're considerably cheaper than the DTC 60/70, but a couple local Mustang guys have apparently tried them and not liked them. Have any Corvette guys actually tried them? I've searched and seen them mentioned, but can't seem to find a review of them specific to this car. I drive a C5Z, stock with plain jane Bridgestone Potenza RE760s. I don't foresee myself upgrading to sticky rubber any time soon due to the cost (pay track fees, or buy sticky rubber/track wheels? Can't swing both) so I don't need a pad to end the world, just a pad that can take the heat and not leave goo on my rotors. I ran whatever ceramic pads came on the car for 4 days and that was it for them, looked like somebody took an ice cream scoop to the pads and there were deposits on the rotors. I picked up some track only blank rotors yesterday, so now I'm after a decent pad that leaves me enough money for a few more track days this year.

The DTC 30 pads are really designed Specifically for Dirt Circle Track applications. I would not run them for a road coarse or autocross

DTC-30
Brake pads designed Specifically for Dirt Circle Track applications. Uniquely controllable torque with smooth consistent feel and bite. Superior Release and torque control characteristics.

• 100-1200°F; 38-649°C • NASCAR Modified • Drag Racing
• Wide Temp Range • Circle Track • Sprint Cars
• Controllable Torque • Dirt Circle Track
• Smooth Feel and Bite
• Excellent Release Characteristics
• Multi-Purpose Gravel Rally

• Excellent Rotor Wear

I would look at either one of these pads for road and autocross

Blue 9012
Medium/High torque and temperature compound with excellent brake modulation. #1 selling brake pad material for SCCA.

• 250-1000°F; 121-538°C • Road and Rally Racing
• Low to Mid Temp • Entry Level Race Compound
• Low to Intermediate Torque
• Excellent Modulation

• Multi-purpose compound
The blues are $169.31 front set


HP Plus
HP Plus utilizes a unique Ferro-Carbon, high-tech friction material that was developed and manufactured for sport driving in autocross, Solo II and “track day” applications. The Ferro-Carbon formulation offers lower wear rates and higher torque values than other competitive materials.

• 100-800°F; 38-427°C • Autocross
• Wide Temp Range • Club Track Day Events
• Exceptional Stopping Performance • Popular Choice for Rear Axle use on GT, GS and
• Designed to get you to and from the track Club Level Applications with ABS

without requiring brake change

The HP Plus $136.30 front set

Both are shipped in lower US

If you got 4 days out of stock ceramic these will work good for now. We run Sebring all the time stock ceramic pads may last 2 track days if lucky.

Call us toll free 888.493.8041

Another reason I like my Wilwood SL6's. Pads are dirt cheap since the profile is very popular in different makes. The savings after several sets of DTC70's pay for them.:thumbs:

I used them on my Z28 with HP+ on the rear, I overheated them pretty fast without cooling ducts but I am almost 4000lbs with an instructor. This was with stock calipers on front.

Now has C6 brakes up front with cooling ducts.

Now I am up to XP-12/XP8 and now overheating those a little, gotta learn to get on and off the brakes quickly.

Thinking about these next, currently using DTC60s. Something that cracks rotors slower would be nice and on street tires not a lot of brake torque is required.

People keep stressing that these are a circle track pad, but I don't see the significance of that if the pad itself is rated to 1200*F. So far only 1 person has actually run them, but I'm just over 400# lighter with an instructor. So far both of mine have been "healthy", but I just got signed off to HPDE2 so now I'm 200+ lighter. :D At most, the car is 3140# with a full tank and nobody inside, so within 20# of the advertised curb weight. What's really weird is one of the TT guys, an instructor that I caught a ride with, runs HP+ with no problems with stock brake ducts. He runs some sticky Kumhos, 305 or 315 all around. It was a very substantial difference from my car, but his brakes never gave up. Regardless, I'm still skeptical to run that low rated of a pad. His HP+ success makes me wonder about the blues too. I'm not that fast yet, but I do ride the brakes a little too long to maintain consistent entry speeds. I hope to get myself off of that crutch after a couple more weekends.

I ran the -30's as my street pad for awhile.

They certainly had track like friction - plenty of bite for street tires. They would probably overheat on a full on long session on really sticky tires but other wise they feel great. They were not very noisy either.

We did however get a few instances of brake judder when they were substituted for high temp/high friction pads like the -60's or etc. If you continuously overheat them they will smear and you will get judder. You can probably say that for most any overused pad however.

We have a number of customers running HP+ on corvettes at tracks like Sebring (brutal on brakes 17 turns) and Miami Homestead with good success. It's the old sane you get what you pay for. Driving style, tires, and many other factors enter into how things will work. If you are only going to look at temp ratings and are not comfortable with the lower rating of the HP + or Blue then look to HT-10 or HT-14 compounds. I may have missed it what brake fluid are you running? If you don't have a High Temp race fluid like Motul, Castrol or something like that then that maybe your problem too. If you have just moved up to HPDE2 and are now just solo for the first time take small steps. I would HIGHLY recommend Brake cooling over the stock system. I would first step up to HP+ or the Blue 9012 pads for a weekend would flush and change fluid to Motul RB600.
We run a 09 ZO6 STO Car Brembo brakes front and rear 2 piece rotors we run DTC-70 in front HT-10 in the rear w/ double brake cooling ducts and we run Hoosier R6's.

That Motul is pricey, but I was looking to swap in some Wilwood 570 fluid. Still rocking the DOT 3, haven't been getting a soggy pedal just yet and that bred a bit of laziness. I was suprised how well the ceramics worked before they died. Once my oil cooler is installed, brake cooling is my next planned mod then a radiator, then other crap. Reliability is priority #1 for me. That last track weekend was at the most brake taxing of the 3 local tracks and my best driving. The remaining track days will be at tracks I've already driven, so they'll likely be harder on the brakes too. I'm only hung up on temperature ratings because it's one of the few metrics I know to look for. I'm sure all of these pads have more grip and fade resistance than whatever ceramics were on the car.