Best deal on Leaking Brakes
Ok Guys, What is the best route to take on leaking brakes. My 69 was purchased by me after a partial restoration and it sat for ten years.When I got it it had no fluid or master cyl. I put new calipier kits in with bores that were allready stainless. I have done this twice and still have small leaks on the front.I only want to do this one more time and do it right.Oh by the way I do have silicone fluid in it. So what is the best no cheap way to handle this. Thanks for all of your help as allways. Charlie
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I just replaced the calipers on mine.. I attempted to rebuild my old ones.. The results were not good.. I got a nice set of rebuilt ones for 70 a piece.. It sure sounds like the seal is pinched between the piston and the bore..
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You could do another rebuild with a VN&P O-ring kit or buy calipers that already have O-rings in them. I rebuilt mine ~4 years ago and no brake problems since. The lip seals tend to leak if the car is only driven occasionally. My 72 didn't get much drive time this year and has averaged ~400 miles per year previously and the O-ring seals have been great.
:cheers: Rick B. |
When I rebuilt mine I used a O ring kit instead of the one with the lip seal. From folk I have talked top the O ring ones last alot longer.
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please be more specific and give web site for o-ring seals,Thanks charlie
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best no cheap way...ok...
I had the same problem for years.
This past summer I bought the Wilwood set while there was a special mentioned here in the forum. They are wonderful. I'm impressed every time I get in the car and use them. I'm even considering adding power brakes.... I went with the D8 6 piston fronts and 4 piston rears in red powdercoat. here is the link to the promo that was going on....not going on now, but you can still buy all the stuff. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...per-promo.html |
Originally Posted by fly1977
(Post 1582545998)
please be more specific and give web site for o-ring seals,Thanks charlie
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Make sure all of your calipers have sleeves- the o-rings require them. (ID is slightly different- according to VBP)
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I'm so glad I trashed the 'vette stuff - err, gave to a worthy sap... no, that's not right.... worthy 'vette guy so that he could rebuild and have leaky, cast iron, 40 year old brakes
I went with Wilwood... by the time you add up the cost of rebuild and pads, wilwoods are very attractive..... that and they stop on a dime :thumbs: I combined mine with slotted rotors from the auto parts company with distribution warehouses in Ohio and Nevada (reno).... they work amazing. |
what I suggest is to have your calipers stainless steel sleeved and upgrade to "O" ring pistons and have your original calipers returned to you to maintain correctness. it will coast extra but its worth it.
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If you or anyone else is interested I have these available, freshly rebuilt with stainless steel sleeves and (brand new) o-ring pistons...SEND A PM for more info!!
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps9831ae3e.jpg |
how much $
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I had problems for years and kept rebuilding my calipers and replaced them a few times. Finely about 5 1/2 years ago I bought a front and rear set from Vette brakes that are SS lined and have O rings. Drove it for a year and than the car sat untouched for four years while I was stationed overseas. When I got back this summer pulled it out of storage and drove the car 1800 miles, no leaks and nothing sticking with the brakes.
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They key to lip seals is to remember to pump the brake pedal once a week or so during the off season..
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water builds up in the caliper and settles to the bottom of the bores the electro reaction between he aluminum piston and steel pitts the bore and that is what causes the leakes over time
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