Car wont start with Sound System Hooked up!!!!!!!
 

Okay i installed 2 10in subs and an amp, i grounded the amp to the factory ground bihind the passenger seat belt, and i ran the power wire to the passenger side fuse box post, all the lights work and the starter clicks but it wont crank, when i unhook amp power wire and ground my car starts right up everytime. what could be causing this????

Anybody?

Have you tried using a different power source connection for the amp? From what you describe, it sounds as though the starter is not getting enough amperage to crank.
With all of the knowledge and experience on this forum, someone will chime in. Good luck and please post what you find.

This would be my guess as well. Why not connect it to the battery? Also, is your remote turn on straight from the radio?

On a differnet brand of car, I had a similar problem and it was the security system. Chafed wire from when my son installed a different radio.

Is this the terminal that you connected the amp to??

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...nstalls003.jpg

If so,,,,,,,,,,,,,, It should have nothing to do with not starting. Is the connection at that terminal and the battery terminal clean and tight??

The battery terminals on 97-03 C5 should be 11 ft/lbs to be properly connected to the battery. If you can move a battery cable terminal by hand,, its NOT tight.

Next,, check the terminals on the starter solenoid and make sure that they are clean and tight and not damaged.

What DTCs are you seeing:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

:iagree:
To the OP, check the audio section. Connecting the amp directly to the positive post of the battery with some heavy gauge wire is the preferred way to do it. You can run the wire through the big grommet in the firewall.

The terminal that I pictured in the post is about as connected directly to the battery as it gets. There is a 6" battery lead between that terminal and the positive battery post.

Regardless, connecting an AMP to the battery should NOT cause a NO START issue unless you left something LOOSE in the circuit between the battery terminal and the starter solenoid.

You could however have an issue with the starter safety /security circuit:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...lectricals.gif

This is the starting line for NO START issues.. Start troubleshooting at the Theft Deterrent Relay.

BC

you should ground it to the passenger seat bolt. run a two foot wire equal to the power wire size and run the power wire straight to the battery. i have two 400 watt amps, yes bridged pushing 2 12inch 800watt subs, but i have a 2.5ohm capacitor inline. i had the same problem at first. but it was my cd player i had it hooked to the yellow wire on the passenger side floor.that was my problem. i used a different acc wire, i belive i spliced two into one i thinks its orange or yellow i used the factory wires from radio.but if i did leave the acc on five mins i could get it to turn over.

:iagree: I must have misunderstood the OP when he stated that he "ran the power wire to the passenger side fuse box post" I was thinking the fuse box in the footwell.

im still thinking he has the acc wire hooked up to the yellow acc wire on the passenger footwell i didnt use any of those wires. that was it for me i had the same problem you will be fine running it straight to the battery i have been running it this way for two years. i do recommend a capacitor though.

I asked him which wire he used for remote turn on - he has yet to fill us in on his choice. The benefits/ appropriateness of capacitors can be discussed elsewhere.

way to try and be a d bag, this whole thread can be else where like in the audio section. but you dont see me being a prick and saying anything do you and no body say anything about benefits/appropriatness? i said it was recommended but good try.

Wow, a well thought out response - you write the way you choose audio components.

PS - the word you are trying to spell is appropriateness. It means fitting to the time or person.

The solenoid clicking but no start indicates to me that the main power lead to the starter or the main ground lead to the block is having issues. Either that or the starter is having issues.

Still waiting to see where OP really sourced his power. Roll Tide. Go Dawgs. sam

A Bama AND Georgia fan.....

Well, I definitely agree with half of you :rock:

The starter requires TWO voltage/current systems to turn the engine over.

The first one is a lower current 12 VDC source supplied by the Theft Deterrent Relay (TDR). It originates from a 60 amp fuse. When the starter safety/security circuits are satisfied, the TDR closes and supplies 12 VDC 60 amps to the starter solenoid via the PURPLE WIRE on a single terminal on the solenoid.

The 12 VDC source electrically energizes a coil inside and sends a metal cylinder inside the solenoid rearward and a metal ring on the rear of the cylinder makes contact with the HIGH CURRENT (direct battery feed contact and the starter main rotor winding contact making the magnetic field inside the starter.

When you attempt to start the engine and nothing happens, you need to figure out if your getting all the proper voltages and proper currents to make cranking happen. Here are all the things that can and will go wrong:

- Low charge or dead battery.
- Loose battery cables on battery Torque to 11 ft/lbs
- Loose/dirty/corroded connections on the solenoid.
- Bad solenoid
- Bad starter
- Bad Theft Deterrent Relay
- Blown TDR Starter or Ignition fuse
- Bad safety/security circuit that prevents the TDR from working.

There is a very common issue that causes a NO start issue. The Solenoid cylinder that slides reward to make contact with the main high current contacts inside the solenoid hanges up and doesn't slide.

OR

It slides and doesn't make proper contact with the high current contacts.

Either condition can be alleviated by mechanically agitating the solenoid/starter Give it a whack and see if that allows it to crank the engine.

The TDR is approx $12 at the parts store if that is determined to be the issue.

Fuses can easily be checked with a meter.

BC

Starter clicks..... doors, trunk, hood open for how many hours while installing said system. Then testing system, cranking up volume etc.....

Battery is almost dead. Charge it.