Bucking the trend -WCCH Stage 2 heads with OEM exhaust valves
 

First, the vital statistics :

2006 C6 Z06

Born 4-18-2006

A powerful and reliable LS7 built at Wixom by Mr. Jim Knapp ......thanks for a kick ass motor, Mr. Knapp !!!:rock:

Current drivetrain mods.....MF103 and an OEM ZR1 x-pipe and muffler assembly, DRM shocks... factory tune.

Current mileage stands at 68,158 trouble free miles....all on original OEM clutch. :thumbs:

Best Dynojet 224 number ..... on 50/50 pump-racegas mix, 484 RWHP and 457 TQ . Best 91 pump gas numbers 474/445

Best 1/4, accomplished 1-12-2013 with 67,979 miles on odometer.... 10.84@128.94 MPH on a 1.53 60' .:thumbs:

Best ever trap speed, accomplished on 1-12-2013 with 67,979 miles on odometer .... 129.99 MPH .:thumbs:

Currently ranked #9 on the C6 Z06 Fast List Bolt-On category......with factory tune and mods listed above.:cheers:


Current status :

In shop for repair of transmission leak.


OK...got that out of the way.:lol:

As my GMPP warranty is no longer in service, I decided it was time to install all the parts I've acquired over the course of the last two years.

Parts list consist of the following:

01) Katech LS9X clutch kit and remote bleeder
02) Katech Torquer 110 cam (1st gen.)
03) Katech C5R timing chain set
04) Katech billet idler pulley
05) new OEM LS7 lifters and lifter trays
06) new OEM LS7 rockers with Comp trunion upgrade
07) FAST LSXr102 intake with FAST billet fuel rails and black braided fuel lines
08) 60 lbs. injectors
09) NW102 throttle body
10) new OEM oil pump
11) Billy Boat 1 7/8 stainless steel longtubes, with Jethot coating inside and out
12) Akrapovic titanium x-pipe
13) WCCH Stage 2 heads with new OEM exhaust valves, Katech PSI-1511 beehive springs and titanium retainers, and a .030 mill
14) ARP hardware will be used in place of original OEM bolts for reassembly
15) already have the Halltech MF103 with beehive
16) already have OEM ZR1 over axle exhaust

We're going to tune it on both 91 pump gas and E85...E85 will be my primary fuel going forward. I'll use my HP Tuners Pro to switch tunes when appropriate.

Heads are at WCCH now, and they think they can get a fairly quick turnaround for me.
Hopefully we have her back together and on the dyno for the tunes in a few weeks.

Looking forward to your results

I am also considering switching to E85 when I do my heads/cam

I never thought I would see the day.

Before heads were pulled, we spot checked a few valve guide measurements with the dial indicator. Looks like I got my 68,179 miles worth out of them.

#1 exhaust guide....

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...sc/photo-3.jpg

My fellow drag racing 6 speed jockey's will enjoy this......

original OEM clutch disc at 68,179 miles ......got my money's worth here as well :lol:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...s/CIMG2876.jpg

I guess I can reclaim the kitchen table again :rock:

OEM exhaust valves!!!! YOU HERITIC!!! Burn him!! LOL

Kiddin aside, this might be a good time to start collecting data for those of us running OE exh valves with rebuilt heads.

There are a few people in here doing that.

Those who have had heads sent out by Katech, to WCCH, run the stock exhaust valves as well.

The ones I know of in here are Confused garage, Musicmankeb, I believe Morris, and now the original poster of this thread

He meant seeing the parts get installed. :thumbs:
Twinger01's a buddy of mine and has seen firsthand my kitchen countertops turn into a parts counter over the last few years :rofl:

Also, you can include any of the factory N/A Katech Street or Track attack cars or engine builds (including the monster 500 motor) in the hollow sodium filled category, unless specifically requested by the owner to swap them out. To date, the only one I remember was RichieRich.

From my understanding Katech does not install any Stainless Steel valves on their head packages.

WCCH does Katech's heads.

My point was that the original poster's WCCH heads are among a few other WCCH LS7 heads belonging to members of this forum, which make use of the stock exhaust valves .

You are correct :cheers:

I think I'll have bullet proof heads, with OEM valves :thumbs:

By this kind of measurement, you have to divide the result by 3.2
So with the bore gauge you should be at 0.0021'' or so.

Let me know.

Seb :canadaflag:

Once I get the measurements back, I'll post them up for those who have an interest.

Do you mean that the wiggle measurement should be divided by 3.2?

According to what technical or engineering document?

Yes.
I will find it and post it, I have see somewhere in a Lingenfelter book for engine rebuilding.

:cool:

Ok I have found it on my book (Not Lingenfelter):
SA26
How to rebuilt a small block Chevrolet
Chapter 7 p.96
By: Larry Atherton & Larry Schreib

''Guide clearance can be checked with hole gauges and micrometer or by wobble method. Move the valves about 1/4 inch of their seats. Then wiggle it side to side. You should feel virtually no wobble. If you have a dial indicator, valve wobble should measure under 0.010 to 0.015 inch (that translate to about 0.003 inch or less guide clearance). Guide clearance greater than this will cause excess oil consumption and premature seat failure.''

Hope this help
Seb :canadaflag:

interesting! good info...i think some of the self diagnoses may have been done incorrectly...perhaps even some of the GM tech diagnoses!

Even if everything came in at spec, I would have still pulled the heads for the work.
We will see what WCCH comes up with measurements wise, as I'm interested in what 68K miles, 12 HPDE's, and 400 passes, have done to the guides.
THe car saw a steady diet of Mobil 1 5W30 it's entire life as well.