1971 Journal
Hi
I am creating a duplicate of my Australian thread here to cover the Journey I have taken on my 1971 Corvette purchased late in 2009. Hope it is of some interest to others. The Car as I picked it up...... https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/CIMG6324.jpg 1971 Matching Numbers 350-270hp Bridgehampton Blue Coupe Index of PagesPage 1 - December 2009
Page 2 - June 2010
Page 3 - September 2010
Page 4 - October 2010
Page 5 - November 2010
Page 6 - November 2010
Page 7 - December 2010
Page 8 - December 2010
Page 9 - January 2011
Page 10 - March 2011
Page 11 - June 2011
Page 12 - July 2011
Page 13 - July 2013
Page 14 - August 2011
Page 15 - September 2011
Page 16 - September 2011
Page 17 - October 2011
Page 18 - October 2011
Page 19 - November 2011
Page 20 - November 2011
Page 21 - November 2011
Page 22 - November 2011
Page 23 - November 2011
Page 24 - January 2012
Page 25 - March 2012
Page 26 - June 2012
Page 27 - July 2012
Page 28 - August 2012
Page 29 - September 2012
Page 30 - December 2012
Page 31 - March 2013
Page 32 - March 2013
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Page 36
Page 37
Page 38
Page 39
Page 40
Page 41
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Page 43
Page 44
Page 45
Page 46
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Page 53
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Page 79
Page 80
Page 81
Page 82
Page 83
Page 84
Page 85
Page 86
Page 87
Page 88
Page 89
Page 90
Page 91
Page 92
Page 93
The Car in 2012..... https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/P1050589.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/P1050577.jpg This thread was originally on the Australian Corvettes forum (Now Closed) but I had decided to also post it here given the wider audience and experience. |
December 2009
I ordered a number of interior trim parts in December and they arrived prior to Xmas. The only one I have fitted so far is the new console. The original was torn and needed replacement. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../CIMG6319a.jpg After straightening all the brackets etc etc I trial fitted the new one https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000066a.jpg Tossed the old radio and ordered a replica one with new electronics and ipod input I also found out why the fiber optics for the front lights were not working - They were not connected under the console. When I pull it out again to do the carpets I will refurbish the console top and repaint it etc. I also - removed all rust from the brake power booster and sprayed it. - tidied up a number of wires under the bonnet that went no where - re wrapped the loom where it goes down to the starter - pulled all plug wires and cleaned and tidied up including fixing a few cracks - new set ordered - added an inline fuel filter - connected all the vacuum hoses to the correct points on engine and re-connected the charcoal canister correctly. - made a temporary cover for the empty radio spot. Took the Vette to the Summernats, where it sat most of the time on the oval - got lots of great comments. |
January 2010
Late January I decided to kill any rust that i Icould find in the base of the birdcage and repaint it - not a lot there from what I could see but it was caused by a leak from the wiper cowl area that was wide open. Filled it up and put the water hose back onto it to test and it now seems to be ok. Possibly had front passenger side panel work done that caused the problem. I also found out that when they fitted my seat belts in QLD they did not enlarge the trim opening enough so they had rubbed and were damaged. Sent them back to the Supplier who is repairing them for me. Took the opportunity to get them re made in blue. Got samples from both Hemco and SeatBelt Solutions https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000069a.jpg Luckily SeatBelt Solutions color was the closest and they were the original supplier so new set on way in blue. However one thing leads to another...... To get the seat belts out I had to remove the the seats and the rear trim then take the webbing out of the belts etc....a bit involved but not too bad So I decided the seats needed some work. If only I could get back to the trim bits i got in December or the ones I purchased while in the US in January. Removed all the tracks and cleaned them up. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000065a.jpg Repainted and lubricated them https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000077a.jpg Then i decided to pull the seats apart to repaint the trims, better clean them and swap the base between driver an passenger side. Final outcome was not bad compared to how dirty they looked when i got them https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000080a.jpg They are out of the car still waiting for the belts to come back |
While the seats were out I thought why not take the carpets out and have a look....that led to cleaning up a number of under dash brackets and repainting them all.
I started to get tired of cleaning bolts and nuts so I purchased one of these https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/tumbler.jpg chemically kill any rust on the parts then drop them in here for a few hours and they come up great. Will look for some more abrasive media as it can take a while. So while the carpets were out i decided to work out how they had re wired my blinkers etc as there was no extra wire running from the brake switch to the back. That led to re doing all the connections with heat shrink etc etc. Found out how it was done - fairly clever. Take the wire previously used for back up and use that to run the new brake light signal. Then feed the backup signal from the transmission selector into the turn signal unit (where the brake light switch had previously gone) and all works fine. While I was looking at this I wanted to find out why some of the rear fiber optics did not work and I found a couple of breaks in the fiber. Thought I could fix it then decided to just replace the run. Jaycar sell 4m run of 2ml fiber that is exactly the correct size for $25. 45 minutes later I have all the lights working in the console. While looking around the taillights I notice the vapor return line is a bit old so i decide to replace it.....wow that was a pain as it is just a bit more than my arm could stretch. |
The wiper motor had been replaced before i got the car but none of the washer tubes were there so i found the plastic bag washer water holder under the fender and ran tubes to the pump and then into the windscreen wiper area.
However cant seem to find any tubes on my wipers to take the water : :cry: May have been replaced at some time with other wipers. Will need to see how I can get water on windscreen another way possibly. |
The Aircon was not working when i got it and the fan motor is dead.
Was thinking of getting a classic air unit but then decided why not try and get some air flow with the standard setup first, so I have checked out most of the vacuum operations and the heater box doors all seem to open close etc. Removed the recirculate air vent flap and will need to replace the seal on it (remove rivets etc) Will need to get a new motor for the system to see how much flow I get. Found this site that makes panels to allow the removal of the air con under bonnet. http://acdelete.com/pages/68-82_Y-Body.htm http://acdelete.com/images/covers/68-82_Y-Body.jpg Will give this some more thought. |
I started to clean up under the drivers side dash.
Took off some of the brackets and repainted them. Took out all the old under felt and created new patterns for as much as I could get to. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000139a.jpg Then glued them in place. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000149a.jpg Then I started to Dynamat the floor below that. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000148a.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000151a.jpg A lot more patterns to make, Dynamat to cut and roll into place .....but my son wanted to repaint his bedroom this weekend so time was very short. Dont let your kids use thumb tacks on plaster walls - one wall must have had 50 that needed to be filled sanded etc. |
Put all the drivers side brackets behind the dash back in that I painted and cleaned up the vent, put new felt seals etc then put them back.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000153a.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000154a.jpg On the passenger side I pulled the fresh air vent assembly apart, took out the rivets and will have to order a new rubber seal. Cleaned up all the brackets and dug heaps of leaves and rubbish out from behind the flap :-( Finished off the servo and brackets etc. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000155a.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000156a.jpg Put the carpet and seats back in so I can drive it again while I wait for new carpets to arrive. Once they arrive I will finish the Dynamat |
The drivers side mirror was a post 74 version and a bit wider then the passenger side so I replaced it with the correct size one.
Also this one stays in position a lot better. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000159a.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000157a.jpg I also found that the seat belt openings in the 71 seats are still a bit rough on the edges (and over time will damage the seat belt edges) so I spent some time smoothing them out. A bit more work on them after some usage and I will need to repaint the seat trim again. |
I decided to have a look at how the shelf for the rear window worked and found it was just full of dust and dirt.
Took it out and gave it a clean up and repaired a minor crack and blended in the paint to match original (was close to perfect match for black bumper/trim paint.) https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...0311-1008a.jpg Cleaned up the brackets and they are ready to paint. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...0311-1007a.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...0311-1021a.jpg The shaft uses the same nylon bushes as the wiper door. After cleaning out the drain areas behind the kick panels I now have close to 10 of them that have fallen down over time. :-D Finished and with window in to show how it goes. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...0311-1459a.jpg May add some foam pads to stop any vibrations. |
I had always thought the rear window was a tight fit and after having a better look it was because the weatherstrip was getting stuck under the window panel and was not stuck down properly.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000206a.jpg So I glued it all down around the edges and now the window fits so much better https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000208a.jpg Used a wooden template to hold it in position as the previous strip was cut for some reason and stretched to fit. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000209a.jpg Will order a new weatherstrip I think and do it all again to ensure it is watertight etc. as the cut as seen in the picture above does not look that nice. :-D |
Before replacing carpets etc i wanted to be sure I had minimized as many leaks as possible - Something that from what read was going to be a long process. (I am sure i will find new ones as time goes on)
Well after a number of days of painful positions in the car with a hose being sprayed outside I think I have fixed most of the culprits. Was using heaps of water (as some were only a drip every few minutes with the tap on full spray) ......so I may have been being a but anal but ....that me :? Should have done this when the seats were out. Down in the cowl the under the mechanism to open the wiper flap I found a few like this https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...vette/cowl.jpg Screws through brackets that were not sealed and water makes its way down the thread. Also a number of fine cracks in seams etc etc. The birdcage only had minor surface rust, as far as I could see up it with mirrors and torches etc. So I converted all that and painted as far as I could get up the inside of the pillars with grey killrust enamel. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/CageBase.jpg Then I took out all the pillar trims etc and sprayed fishoil into all the birdcage cavities through the screw holes. Next to replace the door open switches and make some craftwood speaker frames for the kickpanel areas of the birdcage. |
I had ordered a new heater blower motor so could I get some ventilation happening.
The original relay and wiring was toasted so not sure what had happened. So after getting all the vacuum system working for vents etc I took the old blower motor out and guess what it still worked ok. !!!! So I have re done much of the wiring with a new stronger earth lead from the alternator to the relay bracket on the firewall and then onto the blower motor relay and blower. I have been using crimp connectors but removing the colored plastic sleeve and replacing with heat shrink as it looks more period correct. All speeds seem to be working now for the fan big improvement. Not sure why they have these fans set so off still moves air but I can change that easy enough. Started to put the wiper door back on and then decided to spend some time getting the alignment better.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 6 refits later and its getting closer. Took off some the mounting brackets to re align them a bit and repaint etc and as usual you find a few new holes that are not filled properly underneath. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../P1000278a.jpg No wonder these things are prone to leaks. Will fill them in tomorrow and refit the brackets etc. |
Time to repair some of the AC vents. The race tape repairs by previous owners may have worked but....
It had a number of cracks etc https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../VentDuct1.jpg Sand it all and fiberglass over the problem areas. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../VentDuct2.jpg Then sand again. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../VentDuct3.jpg Then paint. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../VentDuct4.jpg Possibly could have filled all the fiberglass mesh and made it 100% smooth but it is under the dash. |
Cleaned up the passengers side under the dash.
Pulled out the old insulation and cleaned it up. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ght-Before.jpg Then rebuilt the vent flap etc and put them back in https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...vette/flap.jpg Got a few scratches on it when i put it back together so may take it out again and re spray it. All vents etc now work well so happy with the HVAC at moment 8) Then re did under felt vacuum lines, cleaned rust off relays and sprayed with clear paint. Need to tidy up the wiring a bit more and make a mount for the under dash light as it is missing. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ight-After.jpg |
Have been doing a bit of work trying to stop a squeak I had in the drivers rear brake as well as a tapping noise sometimes from the passenger side rear.
So after removing the caliper, rotor etc and cleaning up the parts, greasing the handbrake etc its back on and the squeak is a lot less. I need to do the same on the other side and then adjust the handbrake properly as I believe the taping noise could be a loose shoe on the passenger side. I have new rotors to put on but i kept them for when i can spend a bit more time doing it all up a bit neater. Have ordered a digital dial gauge in case the existing rotor has run-out issues. I found the handbrake cable was hitting the exhaust so that could have been part of the noise. Trial and error to find all the possible causes....in fact after filling up the tank and zip tying the cable out if the way of the exhaust i can hardly hear the noise...Empty tank may have been acting as an amplifier .... |
While I had part of the dash off I decided to have a closer look at the gauge cluster and see why i did not have a door ajar light etc.
Found that once I replace a few bulbs its all working.....in fact the clock is now also working after attaching the proper wires. The new one I have in a box will have to wait till it fails for real. The only thing I am missing is the socket to hold the light in the Seat belt warning area. Repco have ordered something for me (generic T10 socket for a dash) Hope it fits.... Very happy most is now working. All I need to do is then put the new bezel and radio in and it will look 100% better. |
I now have all the buttons and lights in the Gauge bezel working - Repco came through with the PC board fitting and now all operates as expected.
The clock works and then every now and then stops. May just be a contact inside - may pull apart to look or just install the new one I have. Now it all needs to be transferred to my new bezel that has not been butchered like the original one. |
Last weekend I decided to adjust the park brake and cables etc so they would not touch the exhaust.
Did one side ok and went onto other, removed the caliper so i could clean etc and noticed it was leaking. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...iperstands.jpg Time to do the calipers. After some deliberation I decided to try a rebuild. So if I am going to rebuild the calipers they need to be clean. First step clean off all the dirt etc. Then I used a citrus paint remover to soften the old paint on them. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...perafterOC.jpg Then a fair amount of wire brush work and they look great - almost a shame to paint them. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...liperclean.jpg I think I will paint them black. Now to clean up the trailing arm etc before i put it back together https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...Caliperoff.jpg First pass lots more to clean off. |
Did not get as much time this weekend but still got a bit done.
Cleaned up the trailing arms then rust primer and black paint. Needed to take the spring bolts out to do a good job. Will need another coat. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ailingArm1.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ailingArm2.jpg Rebuilt the rear calipers with VB&P O-Ring piston kits. Hope they work as they were a bit stiff after the install. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...newpistons.jpg Now they need paint and it all goes back together. |
June 2010
This weekend I have been working on a few things other than the Brakes Rotors etc. I have been investigating the vacuum system and had found a few parts that leaked down a bit more than I liked so I ordered a new solenoid as well as the valve that goes in the wiper area on C3's with wiper doors. It all worked fine but when I started the car the wiper door would pop for a second. So as the new parts had arrived I did some testing and found the new wiper safety value still had some issues (seems common place) Not happy so I pulled it apart and fitted some o-ring seals to flare the ends to get a better fit (saw reference to similar thing on US C3 forum. Will post some pictures when I have my main PC at home working again (Computer fair next weekend :-D |
Last weekend I acid washed the calipers and masked them up.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../rotormask.jpg Painted them with 3M caliper paint. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/caliper1.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/caliper2.jpg Last night I put the handbrake cables back on and adjusted the tension etc. Will probably need to do some fine adjustments once back on road. Today I started with rotor run-out and the drivers side out of the box was about .003. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/dialin1.jpg After a couple of shims it was 0.0005 - That should be fine :-D https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/dialin2.jpg On to the passenger side. (I got it to .0015 - not as good but still fine) |
Calipers back together with new bolts, bleeders etc.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/calipers.jpg Calipers on, all new SS lines and braided flexible ones. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...liperside2.jpg (And yes know the clip holding handbrake cable is not correct one but mickey mouse ear ones both broke when I tried to use them.) https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...aliperrear.jpg 8" spring bolts so I can adjust the car to level and get rid of some of the rear height. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...aliperside.jpg Bled them now just need to take car for a run and bleed again. But its raining in Canberra. |
Originally Posted by shipy59
Did you make the shims from stock sheet?
Cut out the circle, folded in half and then cut out the hole and flattened back out. I had some brass sheets in various thicknesses from a hobby shop. |
Took it for a run today to bed in the brakes
They worked great - no more squeaks, rattles etc etc. Almost wore off the plating on the friction surface as well. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tor-wearin.jpg The 8" spring bolts have brought the back down to perfectly level at 27" on each corner. Very happy with that. And it still has at least another inch to go if I want it lower later to match possible front spring changes. |
What Next....hmm
I Think I will continue on the vacuum system to see if I can work out why my wiper door opens and closes on startup. Or start on the interior stereo install then refit, repaint trim, new carpets etc etc. Or I could just enjoy it for a while and drive it :-D |
Some views of the level of the car with 8" spring bolts - close to 27" on each corner.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/level2.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/level1.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/level3.jpg It is filthy - needs a wash - has all the dirt from the trailing arms all over it. - sorry |
I had been looking into the vacuum system and have rectified most things but a couple are outstanding.
The actuator for the wiper door needs new seals - ordered. The most critical though is there is no vacuum tank.... The cost of a real one is too high and also to get it in needs the power booster etc to be removed so another plan was needed.... So I decided to build one from PVC pipe. A quick test one built and inserted in the system and huge improvement. So now I started on a proper one to mount in a similar place to the stock one. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...-tanktrial.jpg Here it is trial fitted with no fittings but a bracket to align it with the other items. Now some fittings added. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...nkfittings.jpg Next to seal it properly, paint it and final fit. It will then be fairly invisible under the guard. |
Originally Posted by Bazzas77
looks like you went to a lot of work there. I hope it lasts ,I say this because ....I went through a similar path as you as my original is cracked right through ,so I made a similar one as that in steel which imploded :-x not long after putting it on .
I realise that not having one to start with makes it hard to see just how strong they need to be , which is why the originals ARE so heavy . I since bought a new one from Chris Mills racing over here . Their web site is useless to find it so I cant give you a pic . Another alternative is to get an 1980 or 1981/82 ? corvette vacuum tank which fits in the gap without dismantling that corner of the car. just my thoughts here .If you want I can take a pic and show you my set up ....... I have seen that the later C3 ones are now available again but after talking to a few guys in the US who are the vacuum gurus (seems almost derogatory) they said one made out of a ribbed coffee can or PVC will hold up ok. The ribs stop the metal imploding. PVC is fairly strong - I hope. Is the one from Chris Mills similar to this one I found. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VACUUM-TANK-B...item3a5ca3b428. If the PVC one collapses I will have a few choices :-) My test one seemed to work fine for a week or so with lots of testing. |
Tank is now ready to go into the car.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/V-tank1.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/V-tank2.jpg Then the real test is does it hold up over time given Bazzas77's experience. |
Originally Posted by CraigH
(Post 1583151727)
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...V/P1050589.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...V/P1050577.jpg Can you give us specifics on the rims and tires you used? Look like Torque Thrust, but me and I'm sure others are going to want to know exactly which ones and size, as well as the tire specs. |
In and operational
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/V-tank4.jpg Worked fine in a test run (20 minutes) No more wiper door opening on hard acceleration. Can close them down after car stops (cant wait too long :-) I ended up doing 3 outlets (2 headlight and 1 wiper door) and 1 inlet |
Its fairly cold in Canberra so I found out quickly the choke was not working properly on the Quadrajet.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/quadra2.jpg Advice from Lars and others was that there were a few parts missing and or incorrect on the choke side. So I purchased a couple of old Quadrajets on ebay to get the parts I needed and one turned up yesterday with most of what I needed. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...hokebefore.jpg last night I pulled all the linkages etc off and cleaned them up. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...chokeafter.jpg Put them back on the old Quadrajet to test it out and I seem to have the mechanical parts working ok. The - fast idle cam is engaging properly - secondary lockout is working - Vacuum pull-off is working Now I need to add a few springs and transfer it all to the Quadrajet on the car. Only one link to get and hopefully it will be on the next one to arrive (else I will make one from wire). |
I have a tick/tap noise from the rear right of the car that I have been trying to track down.
Is not drive train as it can be heard "slightly" by revving car standing still. Worse when tank is empty. When tank is full its is hard to hear at all. I thought it may have been line hammer from the fuel pump echoing through the tank. but who knows...exhaust noise etc etc. Have replaced the front fuel line from hard pipe to pump but need the proper molded "s" line to do it properly. Had a look at rear fuel lines and return was fine but main one was very tight with a kink where the bracket holds it to frame. Almost squashing the rubber hose. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ineTankOld.jpg May explain why you could feel a pulse through the fuel line if you touch it. Drained tank, new line in, just waiting for brackets to dry to put it all back. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ineTankNew.jpg |
Originally Posted by StingrayLust
(Post 1583151796)
Lovely looking car, almost makes me want to take my '71 back to it's original Bridgehampton Blue. :thumbs:
Can you give us specifics on the rims and tires you used? Look like Torque Thrust, but me and I'm sure others are going to want to know exactly which ones and size, as well as the tire specs. Coys C5's 18"x 8 - 4" backspace. 245/45/18 255/45/18 |
Been fairly busy last weeks but have had a little time to look at a few things.
I was curious as to how the CEC emission system (TCS) works on a 71 as it is unique for that year and could not find any doco that was correct. The AIM is incorrect and a few docs were written post that but none fully explained it (or at least not enough for me :-) So I took it all apart including the relays etc and reverse engineered how it worked. This was the final outcome https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...vette/CEC2.jpg The full discussion is on http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...id-wiring.html Have media blasted all the relay tops and will clear coat them and put them back in. I dont want the CEC solenoid interfering with my vacuum advance but I needed to know how what and why. When it all goes back it will work but not be detrimental - if I needed it to be 100% all I would need to do is route the advance through the solenoid. |
I started some work on the gauge cluster.
The bezel was broken so I had a new one to put in. First to clean up the existing gauges and replace the clock with a quartz one. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/Guage1.jpg Then I removed the 90 ohm resistor from the temperature gauge. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/Guage3.jpg It has always read on the low side so I assumed it was running nice and cool but after a bit of research I found it needs to be properly calibrated as any replacement sender will not read 100%. In fact it appears you cant get any that will work properly any more. A few of the cars I looked at the owners said it always runs cool - well hmm that may not be 100% correct :-) Here is the discussion around this and the solution that was worked out. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...e-success.html Added the new wiring lead to allow calibration. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/Guage2.jpg Have ordered an ir heat reader so will do full calibration with gauges back in the bezel. Repainted the white letters in the switches and just need to respray the bezel and its a bit uneven and do final assembly. |
New bezel repainted as I was not happy with the finish.
Gauges mounted. Turned out aftermarket clock was not built to as good a tolerance as the original and needed the mount holes opened up and the time adjuster moved slightly to fit properly. Radio installed as well. It a modern deck that looks like the original but has an input for ipods etc. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/bezel.jpg Was not happy with how far the shafts came out so I dismantled the radio and set them back about 8mm more than normal. Just need to fix the knobs on a bit tighter and it will be good to go back. The radios memory line will jump off the back of the clock so it has power all the time. |
Went to put the cluster back in but first had to return the radio plug back to how it was originaly.
The original end was found under the carpet from when previous owner chopped it off. Ends back on. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tereoplug1.jpg Plug refitted. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tereoplug2.jpg Given I need to remove the console to fit the bezel properly I decided to do a bit more work behind the dash first. Removing the Dash pad was much easier than I thought, just get one side out first while lifting slightly. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/topstrip.jpg Dash pad cleaned up great https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/Dashpad.jpg I can now fit my new Polk speakers in the original spots. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ashSpeaker.jpg Am missing one of the speaker mount frames but hopefully I can pick one up on ebay over night. Also I can replace all the upper trim panels t-trim etc. I have had them since January, so may as well use them. |
A bit of a clean up of the T-Top stainless.
Bigger marks 800 wet and dry then 1200 then 2000. 1200 then 2000 for the remainder followed by 000 steel wool with metal polish. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...stainless1.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...stainless2.jpg Looking at it under a flouro is probably showing too many small scratches so will see what daylight looks like before doing some more. But overall fairly happy with it. |
September 2010
Got side tracked today cleaning our other cars and pulling the bumper out of my wife's XR6 Turbo. Courtesy of a delivery van at a circle. Needs to go into panel shop but it can wait a few weeks. At least now the boot is not rubbing on the bumper and it sits fairly straight. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/garage1.jpg But I did find a bit of time for the vette :-) Removed all the HVAC pipes tubes etc to give me better access to the floor. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/console2.jpg Then I removed the console. Bagging all screws etc. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/console3.jpg Took out the shifter and all relays etc etc. First pass of cleaning up. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/console4.jpg Need to brush it off a bit more then I will Dynomat the tunnel and start putting it back in. I managed to get a pair of dash speaker mounting frames for US$9 and also a T-Top hold down strap set in light grey for US$14. (I can dye it blue) They should be here this week so I can put the dash back in. I also cleaned up the bottom edge of the windscreen frame where the pad attaches and repainted it all flat black. My son is busy on the media blaster cleaning all the brackets etc ready to paint - Good to have some help. I am having some paint mixed up so I can finish the birdcage behind the kick panels in that zinc cromate colour. That was enough for today. |
Disassembled the shifter then media blasted the frame to get rid of the rust.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/shifter1.jpg Then painted the frame and cleaned and lubricated the handle as well as repaired and cleaned the switching parts. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/shifter2.jpg Ready to go back together. when the paint has had a few days to dry. |
Finished off my relays for the CEC/TCS system.
Media blasted the tops and repainted the sides then coated with clear satin paint. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/relay2.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/relay1.jpg Tops look brighter in real life...am shooting without a flash. |
Started stripping the console parts
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/console5.jpg Citrus strip seems to do a good job - they will need to soak for a while. |
While all the air vents were out I washed them all free of 40 years of dirt as well and drilled out the rivets holding metal pieces, media blasted them, painted them then put them back.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/vent1.jpg |
Decided that if I am going to clean up the front area I should take out the seats etc etc so I can do it properly.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/inside1.jpg Once its clean I will Dynamat the surfaces. Gong on holidays so I will have more time to spend :-) However there is a long list of other home tasks to be done as well.... Have ordered a small electric vacuum pump so I can do testing of vacuum systems more easily - :D |
Started cleaning up the floor and the rear divider panel. Was previously sprayed with contact cement so was a pain to clean up.
Wiped down the entire floor etc with wax and grease remover the started to dynamat . Got the rear panel, the transmission tunnel and one side finished https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/dynamat3.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/dynamat2.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/dynamat1.jpg Messy and painful job but looks good in the end. Shame it wont be seen :-( |
I put the shifter back together and its ready to go back in the car.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/shifter3.jpg Need to get it in nuetral so I can move it around and open the passenger door a bit more to finish dynamat. |
Dynamat finished in the front of the vette.
Another box ordered for the rear. Started to refit shifter etc. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/dynamat5.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/dynamat4.jpg Started cleaning up all the wires and routing them neatly etc. |
Finished mounting and wiring the Polk 4x6 speakers on dash pad.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/DashPad2.jpg Modified the loop bracket on top of gauge cluster so no clearance problems with the speakers. Ran all new vacuum hoses inside the car (except HVAC hoses as they all work fine) Got a chance to test out my vacuum pump to check it all worked ok inside the car. Adjusted all the HVAC vacuum items to ensure they opened closed properly. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...vacuumpump.jpg Replaced seals on joins in the HVAC plastic ducts etc. Then put dash pad back in car. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../DashBack1.jpg Using all new mounting hardware lets it snug up much better than before. |
Great post Craig!
I have owned my '72 for a year now and have found much the same repairs needed. Enjoy your car its a nice one Cheers, Barry:canadaflag: |
You must have too much time available to start another thread Craig:D
Come to think of it I might do the same:thumbs: |
Originally Posted by wabco40
(Post 1583156423)
You must have too much time available to start another thread Craig:D
Come to think of it I might do the same:thumbs: |
It's nice you can still drive your car while doing the repairs. Mine was in boxes for many years before I could drive it.
Nice work on a good car :thumbs: |
Thanks for comments guys and yes I wanted to keep it on the road while doing work.
However it has been off the road during a few updates that i will post soon. But not for too long. |
Cleaned up the dash pads using "Simple Green".
Amazing how much dirt it can get off. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...eandashpad.jpg When I took it apart I found that a previous owner liked to use toothpicks and heaps ended up at the bottom of the pocket with his chewing gum wrappers :-) |
Am trying to decide what wheels to put on the vette
Its down to Coys C5's in either Polished or Polished lip with Grey center. http://www.coyswheel.com I am leaning more to the later one as the polished lip looks a bit like the trim ring and they Grey matches the original wheel colors They will most likely be both 18's or possibly 17" front 18" back. Rego does not look too kindly on staggered size rims so I may stick to 18" |
Look here for prices in US$
http://www.coyswheel.com/coys.html Delivery to Australia is a few hundred dollars. If your doing 18" x 8"s go 4" backspace. If you want wider on the back there is a 9.5" option in 5.5" or 5" backspace. 5.5" would maintain exactly the outer edge per standard but be 1 1/2" closer to suspension. 5" would have 1/2" inch more dish than standard and be 1" closer to suspension. 9.5 would mean moving the brake bracket and cable and would be very close to the trailing arm but people do it. I think I will stick to 8" |
I completed the passenger side wiring.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../Dashright.jpg Changed it slightly from stock to put the courtesy light in a better position. Just need the bracket to hold the blinker control - I see Zip have one. Put the dash pads back and then the center cluster. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/Dashin1.jpg There seems to always be so many adjustments needed to get them all to line up nicely............... then I added the console and started the alignment exercise again fw) I feel like I do need a beer after that. |
Been away on holidays for 10 days so time to start again.
Ran a new oil pressure line for the gauges. Old one was not leaking but had a kink in it. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...vette/oilp.jpg Then I spent the rest of the day test aligning the dash console etc. I wanted all the edges to line up nicely, but they were way out. After massaging lots of brackets, a little bit of surgery on the lower dash pad with a dremel then lots of careful heat gun work I got it to align ok. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../aligndash.jpg. Now to take it apart again and glue all the vinyl edges on the lower dash pad neatly. Then back in for the final fit - so I think :-) |
October 2010
Started today with the stereo. Tested a few different capacitor values to cut down any bass signals going to the dash speakers. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...Crossover1.jpg Any bass just makes them vibrate and distort so cut anything below about 150 and they sound much clearer and can go louder. 220uf was the final choice. Soldered in and then shrink wrapped. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...Crossover2.jpg. |
Ran all the wires as per the AIM then neatened it up a bit.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/wires1.jpg Added some RCA's for a sub in the rear at some stage and also a direct power wire from the battery for the deck. The deck is a modern unit that looks like the original. Will be using a combination of 72 outer and 71 inner radio knobs as they fill the space properly and look best to my eyes. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../interior1.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../interior2.jpg Now ready for the console to go back intomorrow. |
Spent some more time aligning the console and lower dash pads etc.
Used some aluminum as spacers in brackets to get it to sit better. Got it as good as I can now ..... so on to the rear storage area. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ignconsole.jpg Took out the storage unit, carpets and underlay. Removed the drain tubes and cleaned out the drainage areas on back deck - they were full of crap from when the Vette was painted. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/Rear1.jpg Will spend tomorrow scraping all the old underlay and glue off and will fiberglass up a few of the screw holes . |
Decided to catch up on a few left over items.
Finished the vacuum override brackets and switches. refitted them to the car. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/override.jpg Replaced all the door ajar and courtesy light switches. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/courtesy.jpg Removed and refitted the drivers door weatherstrip (Used black rather than the yellow adhesive used previously) https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...doorwstrip.jpg Refitted Handbrake lever and cover etc. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...interior2a.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...interior2b.jpg Enough for one day. |
Working on the HVAC controls.
Disassembled it and cleaned all the parts up https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/HeatC1.jpg Once it stops raining I will respray the thumb wheels with SEM satin black. The plastic lens cleaned up ok but was not very clear in the areas that had been exposed to the elements for 40 years. So I used toothpaste (non Gel) to buff the outside of the plastic up. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/HeatC2.jpg End result (and this picture does not do it justice) is very clear lens. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/HeatC3.jpg All I need now is some flouro paint for the 2 indicators and respray the fascia and it can go back together. |
Always wondered why my battery did not sit perfectly flat.
Turns out at some time in its life the battery box got a hit and was repaired with way way... more than enough glass on the inside. The outside did not get glassed up smooth so that's another project. On the inside I got stuck into grinding down layers of matt and resin until I now have a flat surface again. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/Battery1.jpg Then a very thin coat of resin. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/Battery2.jpg Once dry it should be ready for paint |
Had a few minutes yesterday afternoon before going out so I cleaned up the battery terminals - They were adapted to top mount rather than side so I will take them back to side mount.
My battery has both side and top mount but I think I will get a Federal 775MF to replace it that way I will pick up a bit of space above the battery for a possible amp location. This is after an initial clean...wow its red :-) https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...Bterminal1.jpg After a bit more. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...Bterminal2.jpg |
I have two more days of leave so I need to get the area behind the seats done.
Started the Dynamat and by lunch time I had the back panel and one side done. It is very cramped in there to work. Started with the rear panel and filled in the indent areas. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/RearD1.jpg Then sheet the back itself. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/RearD2.jpg Then start on the side which is made of of too many pieces to count. Lots of templates cut then trim etc etc. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../RearDleft.jpg A bit of a break to let my back recover then back to work. |
To finish the Dynamat I need to replace the drain tubes so the rivets need to be drilled out.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/Drain1.jpg And the covers gentry pried off from within the wheel arch. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/Drain2.jpg Once the Dynamat is in I will replace them after being media blasted and painted. |
Continued to Dynamat the drivers side.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/RearD3.jpg Then the floor and the underside of the rear panel behind the drains. Was fairly hard to get the Dynamat in position up under the rear panel by yourself. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/RearD4.jpg The tennis ball is to protect me from the brackets that I hit with my hands, head etc too many times while working in there. |
Now to move on to final painting of the storage compartments.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/RearS1.jpg Amazing how much better they can look after a clean, sand and paint. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/RearS2.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/RearS3.jpg |
Cleaned up and painted around the rear window seal with matt black enamel. There is always some minor parts visible through the trim so wanted it to not stand out.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../rearframe.jpg Moved on to the B pillar and repainted the trim that holds the weatherstrip in with satin black enamel https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../PilllarB1.jpg |
The front pillar weatherstrip is next.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/pillar1.jpg I have had it all off before when I was checking for and fixing water leaks. Remove the inner and outer stainless steal parts. Drill out the rivets on the channel piece that holds the weatherstrip to allow new strip holder to be attached. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/pillar2.jpg After cleaning up the pillars I masked them of and painted them with satin black enamel. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/pillar3.jpg All the SS has been cleaned in paint thinners to remove any old glue etc. |
Finished off a couple of the interior pieces for the console and HVAC
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/Fibber1.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...HVACplate1.jpg The HVAC wheels are ready to be painted with SEM vinyl paint. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...VACwheels1.jpg Shift plate was previously stripped then cleaned in paint thinners then prepsol. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...hiftPlate1.jpg Sprayed in 2 coats or satin black enamel (16 hours between) https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...hiftPlate2.jpg Then I will use a razor to expose the chrome edges etc like the other pieces. Comes off in nice strips. |
Started the prep of the A pillar stainless steel.
Previously cleaned in thinners. Now they got a clean with fine steel wool and kerosene. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../PillarSS1.jpg Next onto some polishing. But there is some motor racing on today so I wont get much more time. |
Finishing off the upper dash air vent.
After using a razor blade to expose the letters. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/Vent2.jpg Fit the wiper switch back in with numbers to top. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/Vent3.jpg Apply felt strips to top and bottom areas to hold vents in position when moved. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/Vent4.jpg Install vents and rear duct. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/Vent5.jpg Install back in car. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/vent6.jpg Same with fiber optic unit, razor off edges and letters then refit after cleaning ends of fiber optic off with metho. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/vent7.jpg |
Fitted the drain tubes and riveted the outer plates on in the wheel wells.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../VentDrain.jpg |
Needle paint turned up in the mail today.
Repainted the needles on the heater controls. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...HVACneedle.jpg With daylight savings I decided to do a bit this evening. The A pillar stainless was looking good but decided to try some machine polishing of it. Came up even better than I imagined. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...stainless7.jpg Small amount of polish and a cloth wheel then a paddlepop stick inside a cheese cloth to do the indented areas. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...stainless6.jpg When I put it on the car it made the indented pieces on my screen look bad so i needed to do them using the same method. Had already done stainless on top of screen but did not focus on the delicate indent areas closest to screen. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...stainless5.jpg Bit by bit same method, paddlepop stick then machine buff. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...stainless4.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...stainless3.jpg |
Been a busy week so have not got to the vette much at all.
Did finish the console plate though. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...nsoleplate.jpg Next week will be worse with travel etc so I may start to get withdrawal :-) |
Originally Posted by YLLA 88
Originally Posted by CraigH
Did hear today that my wheels are in customs in Sydney
Hit with GST and a few fees but back on track now. UPS say they will turn up early next week but I wont see them till next weekend....:-( I had an interesting experience re the tyres i was after as well, Yohahama Advan Sports V103's. Bob J etc were about 450 - 550 each. Ebay parallel import 300 each (+ ship + Fit) for the 245's only did not 255's Rang Yokahama to ask a few Q's re parallel imports and see if they are some model tyres etc etc Was early in morning and got a guy called Steve. Very helpful, did not bag the parallel importer but told me the differences and the choice was mine. Yokahama would probably still warranty to protect their name even if parallel. Difference: Parallel's lower speed rating, lower load rating, possible compound difference and if asymmetric type possible bias difference, not to mention that a lot is old stock is imported and could be going a bit hard. He then offered to get another local dealer to quote a price for me and he would ring them with the details etc. Rang the local shop and they offered them at under $400 each... Turns out Steve is the CEO of Yokahama and just answered the phone when I rang. What great customer service. Tyres on order. |
November 2010
Originally Posted by CraigH
My rims turned up yesterday.
A couple of phone pictures from my son. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../coysboxes.jpg [https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...vette/coys.jpg Cant wait to get home and get some tyres fitted up and try them out. |
A week away and a busy weekend at home but I need to get some more done.
Started to assemble the HVAC controls. First put the indicator assembly back into the faceplate. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...Cassemble3.jpg The thumb wheels had been painted with SEM black vinyl. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...Cassemble1.jpg They needed to be put back into the assemble that had been cleaned and greased. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...Cassemble2.jpg I found that I then needed to split it in half and work each side into the faceplate/Indicator assembly. A little tricky as you need to link the thumb wheels with the wheels on the indicator and if you get them out at all the indicators wont line up properly. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...Cassemble4.jpg Back into the car and tested all the vacuum connections and blower speed settings. Tested the heater and all the flow positions worked great with minimal air bleed between them. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...Cassemble5.jpg Lots of fiddling to get it to slide in to position as the wires, hoses etc are a bit like trying to put an egg back in its shell. Possibly if I loosened off the console it would have been easier but I did not want to do that. Will fit it properly tomorrow when I have better light. |
Refitted the HVAC controls with the main cable going to the side this time and it fitted much better.
Then trial fit of the console plate to ensure it was level......hmm out again and adjust the frame that holds the HVAC controls then try again. Much better this time. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...Cassemble6.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...Cassemble7.jpg Now shift plate back out and start to wire up for the ipod charger and audio input into deck. Am thinking of running it up into the cig lighter area and getting one of the new Nano units tats all screen. Need to do a bit of testing. Should be able to get the remainder of console put back together in a few days and also the rear window assemblies and window tray. |
Started to refit the rear window hardware.
Started with the fittings where the window sits on the bottom. Parts media cleaned, screws painted and fitted https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...owsFitting.jpg Top clamps in place after cleaning and a new foam pad added that goes between window and bracket. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...WindowClip.jpg I then fitted the removable window to test and did a bit of adjusting to get it to fit nice. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...arWindowIn.jpg While looking at it I wondered what happened to water that went down between the metal frame and the rubber seal......It is meant to pool in a small channel under the window, but where does it go. I found signs that there was once some drain holes (3 on each side). So out comes the dremel and I opened them all up again and repainted the channel. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...indowDrain.jpg The water then goes into the same drain as the rear deck. That would explain a few drips when I washed the car before. I have been using VHT satin black enamel for all the bolts as it dries fast. Everything else that is satin (like console etc) are all White Night satin black enamel, Dries slower but is a better finish (closer to my view of what satin is) and dries very hard. |
Thought I would do something simple last night and refit the rear window tray.
Well it was simple but...... https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...indowTray2.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...indowTray1.jpg I then decided I did not like how the rear window weatherstrip was done so I ripped it out. Then spent a few hours trying to clean up the old layers of glue.....what a pain I have so much more to get off before I can fit a new one. I think I will have to look for a release agent for this stuff, thinners or even acetone don't really move it. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...therstrip1.jpg |
Ok here are a few shots after wheels were on.
Vette has not been driven more than 50m so it will settle down a bit more for sure. Bit hard without seats :-) Still will probably want it lower as i like the wheels to sit in the guards, but that can be a 2011 project. In for an alignment next week as well. Please excuse the missing A pillars etc and the fact its filthy. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/wheels2.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/wheels3.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/wheels1.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/wheels4.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/wheels5.jpg |
Originally Posted by moto
Yeah bewtifull Craig - they're exactly the wheels I've got in mind for the '73. How do you get i to sit lower if it's not a stupid question ? I know what you mean about that gap! You see it so often on C3's and it kills the whole profile ay !
Well given it has not been driven yet since I jacked it up and put them on it will settle down a bit. Once I see what that looks like I will decide what to do next, if anything. The rear is easy. I already have 8" bolts in the rear suspension and had adjusted them to about 1" from the end. The original bots are 6" https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...aliperrear.jpg That how I got the back to sit like below. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/level1.jpg So I can get another inch in the back easily with the 8" bolts.....or with 10" bolts way more. The front would be either 1) new springs 2) VB&P monospring front end 3) coilovers. Springs are the cheapest but you cant guarantee the height. Initially I will just lower the back so the gap is event front and back between wheel and guard. |
Started to do the A Pillar weatherstrip today.
The Pillar was already painted with black enamel a few weeks back. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...te/pillar3.jpg Now using 3M Strip caulk I ran a number of lines down the pillar on either side of the screw holes and on the outer edge of the pillar itself. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/APillar4.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/APillar5.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/APillar1.jpg I read a lot of posts that talked about what to use between the layers but in the end the strip caulk allows you to work and adjust it and take off later so it was the best in my view. The reveal trim is then fitted and bedded down to spread the caulk. |
On the weatherstrip channel I pop riveted the brackets near the top.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/APillar3.jpg Then once the reveal trim piece was fitted and tightened up with 2 screws I went on to the channel that holds the weatherstrip and ran one bead of strip caulk. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/APillar6.jpg It is then fitted to the reveal trim and screwed in. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/APillar7.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/APillar8.jpg |
The weatherstrip was then test fitted.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/APillar9.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../APillar10.jpg The glass was run up and down and the weatherstrip removed and the channel adjusted. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../APillar12.jpg |
I have masked the bottom area around the drip channel of the weatherstrip to be painted black.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../APillar11.jpg Probably not correct but will look much neater. |
Now I just compared both sides and the readjusted the channels etc to ensure it looked even and the glass would go up and down properly..
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../APillar13.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../APillar14.jpg Will leave the windows up and doors shut for a day to settle it all down. Now I just need to take the weatherstrip off again, paint the lower piece and fit it properly with adhesive. I picked up some DIGGERS XYLENE thinners from Bunnings that should help with removing any remaining sealer around the rear window. |
A Pillar weatherstrip is progressing.
All the channels etc are adjusted and paint done. The Strip is in but I wont glue it for a little while so I am sure its sitting 100% https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../APillar17.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../APillar15.jpg I have fitted the A Pillar trim as well. Took a fair bit of adjusting the piece then one new screw hole needed as the old one did not align. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw.../APillar16.jpg The rear weatherstrip is sitting for a while to get flat and more to shape. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...therstrip1.jpg |
Nice night tonight so I spent some time on cleaning up the weatherstrip glue from the rear window seal.
I used XYLENE and it did a great job but you would not want to do it in a confined space. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/work1.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/work2.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...therstrip2.jpg A coat of paint and it will be ready for the new window seal. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...therstrip3.jpg Getting a wheel alignment tomorrow. Put a seat back in and took it for a spin tonight. Feels great with the new wheels and tyres. |
November 2010
Just picked vette up at lunch after having an alignment and suspension check. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...e/aligned1.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...tte/align3.jpg Still want it a bit lower (not a lot) but I am looking at these to get it done from Speed Direct. Seem to get fairly good reviews in the US. Just need to decide on strength 400, 450 .....etc Dont want it too hard but 450 is the stiffer of their soft springs (Normally for BB). |
I have finished off the ipod integration I was after.
The deck has a simple 3.5 audio input so I went onto ebay and got. 1) ipod cable with audio and usb tails. @$5 https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/ipod3.jpg 2) Belking micro USB Charger. @$5 https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/ipod4.jpg 3) small small cigarette lighter. From the new cigarette lighter I put a couple of piggyback connectors so it can go into the normal switched lead as used by the stereo. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/ipod1.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/ipod2.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ette/ipod5.jpg Then the ipod cable plugs into the deck and the charger and its all nice an neat and charges all the time I have the ignition on. Once shift plate is in I will modify the ash tray area to mount an ipod hidden behind the door. |
Cleaned up and refinished the antenna base plate.
https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...ntennabase.jpg Ready to go back once I get the replacement rubber feet that go between it and the fiberglass. Also got all the shift plate parts ready to go once the clip for the ashtray door fronts up. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...hiftplate3.jpg I have a number of new panels for inside the car but will be repainting some existing and new ones with vinyl paint to ensure an even color. (Dying is what everyone calls it but I will stick with painting as I cant see how you dye plastic or vinyl. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...panalprep1.jpg Good clean with simple green and a scotch pad. I have a few vinyl nicks that I want to fill but need to work out what would work best to do that. You can see in this picture how I have enlarged the seat belt hole on the covers to take the larger Australian belts and to stop any belt rubbing. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...panelprep2.jpg Also created a slit to get the belt in and out so getting seats out of the vette will be simpler once done. |
Have finished off the rear window surround rady to fit the new weatherstrip.
Will let the paint dry for a few days first. I painted up to the lip as far as I could to cover and signs of the masking that was done when it was repainted. Also touched up the air vents under the grills. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...therstrip8.jpg You can just see the black paint edge from outside but once weatherstrip is in it should not be visible https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...therstrip7.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...therstrip6.jpg [https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...therstrip5.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...therstrip4.jpg |
Did a bit of repair work on a few interior panels.
They had some knicks through the vinyl here and there. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...riorPaint1.jpg Filled them with body filler. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...riorpaint3.jpg Sanded them back and a good coat of plastic primer. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...riorpaint7.jpg https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...riorpaint8.jpg On the seat belt covers there were some cracks that I fiberglass up on the back then ground out the front to give somewhere for the filler to go. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...riorpaint2.jpg Then filled and sanded back. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...riorpaint5.jpg Finally a coat of plastic primer. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...riorpaint6.jpg The seat belt opening has been enlarged for our larger belts. |
Finishing off most of the interior panels.
Was fun to see it come together and I have always enjoyed spray painting. When I was 17-18 I did it and panel beating at tech college for a few years at night so I could learn and use all the equipment for free. The panels are being sprayed with Dupont lucite Vinyl paint. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...iorpaint19.jpg Using a simple high volume low pressure gun. https://filedn.com/lgpmSkDpNlKkX4Xmw...iorpaint13.jpg |
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