Restomod Stance - Aftermarket Chassis
 

Hey guys,

I am working on my 73 coupe project and have been considering the SRIII chassis. While looking for other builds using aftermarket chassis I came across some really fantastic looking restomod builds. I have realized that the main difference between most restomod projects and the ones in the pictures attached is the stance of the car.

I am drawn to the idea of having my wheels tucked inside the fenders. I just dont know how to accomplish this.

Is it possible to use an aftermarket chassis like the SRIII and modify it to achieve the low appearance with the wheels tucked inside? I always noticed this on tube chassis drag cars, I just love the look.

Is it as simple as narrowing the frame and suspension to achieve a more narrow track width?


http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/...psb43f7693.jpg

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/...pse9eaa608.jpg

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5fda23f8.jpg

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7fd8a961.jpg

Steve--

Love this stance as well... Check out Cruisin Davey G's vette as he has an air ride suspension on his C3 and he can slam his car down on the pavement... I would imagine an aftermarket frame and air ride suspension would look and drive very nicely...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...s-i-think.html

Rogman

both those cars are on air-ride bags, and both in the $250k+ range with the black one closer to $500k if you had one built. It can be easily duplicated all it takes is $$$$.

Those cars are definitely works of art but getting that stance should be within reach when spending the cash on an aftermarket chassis like an SRIII or example.

Like em tucked just under the well but when they get that far inboard it starts to look funny to me. Right stance getting it can take time/be frustrating but when you nail it the car just talks to ya! :rock:

Oh no doubt about it, with the SRIII and air bags you should be able to get that stance.

You could get that look without narrowing anything (on the front) with some careful wheel measurements.... There is room for a 285/35/18 on a stock fendered C3. The tire sits just about flush to the fender so if you were to use a 245 tire with a similar backspace you could probably get the look you're after. The rear is a bit more difficult as the wheel tub and frame rail are in the way, but you usually cut that out for an aftermarket frame anyway.
I think the tucked in wheels are not a look but more a necessity when driving a car that tucks the tire at ride height. If you are really careful you can tuck a decent amount of tire into the fender while remaining somewhat flush and still not rub. Its all about the shape and position of the wheel well.
Here is my car tucking just under 1" of tire into the wheel well at ride height. Any more and the car would be pretty un-drivable due to the clearance from the frame to the ground
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/dda4ddc1.jpg

By going with the SRIII chassis you can have the frame manufactured and rear suspension narrowed to easily accommodate the rear tub look you are hoping for. If you want to see some pics of the SRIII chassis, I have a thread on my project. My suspension is not narrowed because I like the flared fender look, but it will show you how the chassis is built.
Call SRIII and talk to Mike. He is a great guy to deal with and can answer any of your questions.
Rob

If you're on a budget you could always narrow the rear section of the frame and Install a straight axle with air ride at all four corners. Buy narrowing the rear section of the frame, it would allow you to run a much larger tire of what ever size you would like and to pull the wheel inside the fender a bit. If your not looking to build a track car, this would be a great way to achieve the look you're going for.

Riggs

Vette427-sbc.: Just put 275/35/18's on my car on 9" wheels with 4-1/4" backspacing. My front looks kind of iffy to me at 1" to the top of the fender lip and is just a hair inside at the top of the tire/fender (cut the coil springs because the new motor is lighter by a bunch). Also camber enters the picture here, I have 2.5 degrees negative. But I like the look and would like to keep it that way. How much experience have you got on your setup? Your picture looks very similar to my car. Also clearance with the wheels turned? It looks close and I haven't pushed the car in a hard fast turn yet. Still OK?

They do not rub at all under full compression and lock... Been beating up on the car at the auto-x and street for a few months with this setup and have no issues. I do have spc upper control arms that have a more aggressive camber curve compared to most upper arms, but im only around -1* static camber.

As a buddy of mine is now building a C1 with a Art Morrison Frame I can say that the stance and look you want is more difficult with a C1 that a C3. The C1 came with much smaller wheels and tires and has just that much less room to work with. The problem is that when you put modern suspenion on from a C4-5-6 on they are much wider than the suspension of a C1, so you are going to end up with the wheels way to far out or use wheels with lots of reverse offset like the newer vettes. To put a wide tire on a C1 ( Like a 315) you need to tub the car and this means that the convertable soft top will no longer have anywhere to fold down into. And also fender flare the outside.
A C3 can get this look by carefully chosing wheels and tires and offsets. Even if You go with a modern frame and suspension, it will be wider than the C3, and make it more difficult to fit wheels and tires. I'm not saying that one wouldn't want to use a newer frame to update things, but if the sole purpose is to get the wheel-tire-stance then there really isn't a reason.

thanks 427 - what I was hoping to hear - also have the spc uppers and global west lowers and autoX my car. Sorry for the diversion guys!

Hey guys - Thank you for all the feedback.

I called Mike at SRIII and discussed my intentions for the build. I want to get the tucked in look as stated but I want to run 19*13s in the rear and 18*10s up front without flairs. Mike said if we go with the c/5c/6 setup and a Quickchange rear we can narrow the frame rails a bit more and still have room to service the pumkin etc. Most guys run the 12" rears but I am aiming for the 13" rims like the Viper uses. We will custom make a set to clear the Z06 brakes as well.

Mike is a super nice guy for sure. I just sent in my deposit to get in line for the frame as well.

Nice, can't wait to follow your build...

Rogman

You've likely seen some of my pics, but I posted a pic in an older thread showing the wheel fitment for your reference. (hopefully the link works)

When dealing with Mike, I asked for an appearance close to stock...my frame is not tubbed, and I am at the limit of inner fenders on the rear. The rear floor mod basically removes the compartments and increases the radii of the inner fenders to account for the frame and batwing union. A tub would require tubbing the inner fenders as well (obvious, but I thought I'd highlight it since it was a bit of a mystery until I had the body hanging above the frame.

Good luck!
Rob

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...te-w-pics.html