400 dart shp build
 

After a very long wait my shp short block has finally arrived!
A few members have expressed interest in the build so here we go.
Short block has callies compstar rotator with cp bullet flat top pistons.
I will be using pro-filer 210 straight plug heads with howards hydraulic
roller cam.Will post pictures after link is set up.

Cool. Can you share all specifics about the build, cam specs, intake, cr ect?

Picturehttp://forums.corvetteforum.com/memb...798-154062.jpg Compression ratio is 10.45 to1,
cam is 600 lift intake and exhaust with 243 duration @.05 intake and 249 duration @.05
exhaust.Intake is ported victor jr that will be topped with quick fuel 950 annular booster
double pumper.Exhaust is 1 7/8 stainless headers with side pipes.

Nice, is that a solid roller cam?
My shp400 is afr 195s, 9.14 to 1, Xe 288 hr, 236, 242 @ .050" .520" .540", rpm air gap and prosystems 780 built on a hp 950 main body. Runs great, i bought acam from chris straub and shortly there after done some drunken bidding and bought an mp122 blower, now i need a blower cam. Be interested in what you produce et wise. Thanks for sharing.

Hydraulic rollerhttp://forums.corvetteforum.com/memb...804-154058.jpgI have scorpion roller rockers and jomar stud girdle to top it off.Rocker studs in 1st picture will be replaced with 7/16 arp pro model studs for use with girdles.I have 3.70 gears for the rear and will go to 2004r transmission.Should be fun.:D

Should deffinately be fun. Im running a 700r4 and currently 3.08s. Ive got 3.55s to put in this winter. You running 1.6 rockers?

1.5 roller rockers

Nice.
GLW build

Off the poster topic, but bluedawg. with your 9.14 CR all you would need to do is retard the cam 4-6 degrees and it would be a nice blower cam. Blower cams use later intake opening and typically greater exhaust durations. Your AFR heads have the exhaust flow covered.

To everybody with OD auto trannys like the 700r4 or 200r4. The best rear end gearing is @ 3.90 or 3.73 on lower rpm builds. You also want the trannys setup with no kick down in 4th gear so they can run Wide open throttle in 4th gear.

I used a 700r4 for 20 years in my vette with 4.11 rear end and numerous engine types.

I have never been a side pipe fan, because they are power loosers because the primary pipes are not a tuned length like long tube 4-1 headers.

I also never understood why anyone would buy straight plug aftermarket heads. Most heads except AFR have header clearance with angle plugs and the single cylinder problem is fixable

I didn't really consider that, Ive talked to chris and comp both but that would be for another post. I figured I email you Geo when I got a little closer to that point. I figured 3.55 rear would work thought about 3.73 in the rear, but 3.73 time 3.06 puts ya 11.41 if you follow the thought on being as close as possible to 10. I don't know if I'll get the mp122 in this winter.

Gkull;
Every manufacturer I talked to claimed there is no power difference between angle and straight plug heads.And yes I chose them for more spark plug to header tube clearance.I agree side pipes will give up a little power but a c3 with them represents what a hot rod should be.
This build is more street car than race car like yours.
Thanks for the input.
Dave

Fwiw I recently switched from 1 7/8 headers and sidepipes to 1 3/4 headers and 3" under car exhaust. The difference was HUGE not little.

Yes, it is true that modern heads place the spark plug tip in nearly the same correct place whether it is angle plug or straight plug.

Being 210 cc intakes did you go with the bigger intake valve option.

The 400 with a roller cam will run like night and day compared to any 350:thumbs:

Which baffles did you try?I have read they make a huge difference in power output.

The heads have 2.08 intake valves.After talking to Chad Speier any build 600 hp or less will not need a larger valve.He has dyno charts of builds of 600 hp with as cast heads.Now if you went with his 265 intake ported heads that is a different story.So I guess one advantage of the route I'm taking is the ability to upgrade with existing parts.

I had the spiral inserts whatever they are called.
Ya know its just that the looooooong primaries and huge 4" collector just kill the low end torque.
I have a high stall 8" converter and it was still doggish down low.
The 3" collector in the right spot just woke the car up in a big way.
I hear what you are saying about the "look".
Truthfully a regular full length header with a 3" collector that comes out to a side pipe I think would be best of both worlds on your car. You obviously care about power or you woulda threw in a 350.

Base your gearing on your cam kind of as Gkull said
Ignore the 1st gear ratio youll go through it quick anyway.
2nd 3rd and even 4th if the rear is geared just right will make the whole pkg fun

That is the magic number for manual tranny cars to be easy on the clutch for take off and not so low as to be a worthless granny gear.

The 200r/700r use a governor to set the 1-2 shift rpm. You can muddle with your own weights and springs or just buy what ever rpm you want. I bought a 5000 rpm. so you just put the lever in 2nd , power brake or just floor it and it does a 1-2 shift 1/2 way through an intersection or just past the 60 foot light beam with my 4.11.

Then you just do a manual shift 2-3 up around 90 mph. Do online calculators with your tranny and rear tire diameter

Nice looking build! Dbl check if that Howards cam is ground on a billet core.When I checked with them they said their cams were ground on austempered core not billet.Changed my mind got a Crane Cam billet core pressed on iron dizzy gear...Roller cam on the right ...
[IMG]http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...100_2310-1.jpg[/IMG]

:lurk: