06 Z06 blown to pieces Help appreciated!!
Hello all. I would like to introduce myself to the forum. My name is Jordan out of northern NJ and recently purchased 06 Z06 w 30k miles. Needless to say after a couple thousand miles I had a major engine failure and I need to pull the motor. (hole in oil pan) I have a 2 post lift and I am going to pull the motor myself. Does anyone have a tutorial on how to pull the drivetrain from this car or is my best bet to purchase a service manual?? Thanks in advance guys. I have an extensive mechanical background and all the proper tools at my disposal I just want to be prepped going in and learn some tricks of the trade before I tackle the job.
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Purchase a manual. Sorry for your loss. Engine failures on Z06s are widely documented on this forum. The majority of "do it yourselfers" here are limited to routine maintenance items. Motors changes are traditionally left to the professionals....
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For engine swaps we drop the whole drivetrain out of the body on C5-C6's with stands we have made.
If you decide you just want to drop the car off and pick it up done contact us for a quote as we are not far from you. Josh Hicks (302)838-2188 |
Thanks ghoust. I appreciate the input. Once I get the motor out I am going to decide where to head from there. Preliminary inspection of the motor inside the car has me believing my best bet will be to purchase an entire long block. Obviously I will know better when I can actually get a handle on the damage that has been done. Once I have it then time to talk to some professionals. Any suggestions on engine builder local to me in nj??
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Sorry to hear that, keep us posted on what the cause was.
Hole in the oil pan or block? |
Thx Josh.. I'll give you a buzz this afternoon to pick your brain!
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I can only see hole in oil pan. But there has to be another hole somewhere that I cant see w the motor in the car. A piece of what looks like the piston managed to exit through somewhere and it is bigger that the hole in the pan so it must of come from somewhere else!
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Standard practise
Here's a pic of a shop that does this kind of work all the time.
Good Luck with this!:D https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...anceClinic.jpg |
Originally Posted by race105
(Post 1585229038)
I can only see hole in oil pan. But there has to be another hole somewhere that I cant see w the motor in the car. A piece of what looks like the piston managed to exit through somewhere and it is bigger that the hole in the pan so it must of come from somewhere else!
Has the car ever been tracked? When did it happen? RPM, driving conditions etc? |
Car has never been tracked, it let go at about 6k RPMs on a dead straight away. Car did have a noticable ticking prior to grenading. It has long tubes on it and i thought it was not anything internal and only an exhaust leak but apparently my assumption may have been wrong. Oil pressure never dropped it never gave even the slightest hint that it was running differently before it happened either. Dry road, cool tempertature 55 degrees car was at normal operating temperature as as well
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Originally Posted by race105
(Post 1585229218)
Car has never been tracked, it let go at about 6k RPMs on a dead straight away. Car did have a noticable ticking prior to grenading. It has long tubes on it and i thought it was not anything internal and only an exhaust leak but apparently my assumption may have been wrong. Oil pressure never dropped it never gave even the slightest hint that it was running differently before it happened either. Dry road, cool tempertature 55 degrees car was at normal operating temperature as as well
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Probably a valve drop.
I've dropped my motor out on a 2 post. Pretty east. Disconnect wiring, fluid lines/etc, exhaust, tunnel plate, upper suspension to body, then 4 bolts from and 4 rear and everything drops out. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-J...811_191111.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-A...811_191054.jpg |
I've heard of replacement engines going bad for failure to flush the entire system (metal debris in dry sump) after a failure like yours. Make sure you replace everything that needs replacing. There's a lot of knowledge on these forums, you've come to the right place.
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Unreal you have officially made it sound way to easy LOL.. I'll start disassembly this week and keep you guys posted on where to head from here. I'm just happy to have the support from you guys. Any suggestions on built but reliable long blocks in the 600-650hp range?
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And the beat goes on....an on....and on.
Very sorry for your addition to a very long list of Z06 owners with catastrophic motor failures. In the past and with other LSx motors I have reconciled my loss with the thought "Well, I can rebuild the motor with some really good parts......" Unfortunately the Z06 already has some really good, and expensive, parts in it. But you do get the opportunity to get a better valve train and some forged internals in it now. I am afraid the standard forum advice to new owners now is, either buy an unmodified Z06 with an extended warranty or immediately take the motor to have the heads replaced. One of the forum Chevrolet dealers has the Helm Manuals available at about $196 most of the time. |
Originally Posted by race105
(Post 1585229038)
I can only see hole in oil pan. But there has to be another hole somewhere that I cant see w the motor in the car. A piece of what looks like the piston managed to exit through somewhere and it is bigger that the hole in the pan so it must of come from somewhere else!
Good luck getting it back on the road. |
Originally Posted by race105
(Post 1585229218)
Car has never been tracked, it let go at about 6k RPMs on a dead straight away. Car did have a noticable ticking prior to grenading. It has long tubes on it and i thought it was not anything internal and only an exhaust leak but apparently my assumption may have been wrong. Oil pressure never dropped it never gave even the slightest hint that it was running differently before it happened either. Dry road, cool tempertature 55 degrees car was at normal operating temperature as as well
Sorry to hear hope you get it rebuilt. Keep us posted. |
These engines always tick and it becomes louder with headers and even louder with a cam.
Even when I got my heads redone (WCCH Stage 2), it was ticking right away, similarly to how it was prior to the rework. Another local with new PRC heads did the same thing. I wouldn't recommend thinking that ticking = pending doom. |
Originally Posted by race105
(Post 1585229324)
Unreal you have officially made it sound way to easy LOL.. I'll start disassembly this week and keep you guys posted on where to head from here. I'm just happy to have the support from you guys. Any suggestions on built but reliable long blocks in the 600-650hp range?
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Originally Posted by pkincy
(Post 1585229377)
[...] I am afraid the standard forum advice to new owners now is, either buy an unmodified Z06 with an extended warranty or immediately take the motor to have the heads replaced. [...]
The sensible advice would be to save your money and have the guides checked via the wiggle test. |
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