Wilwood Brake Caliper & Rotor options
 

Okay, so I've decided to go with the Wilwood option for my LS restomod. Now the question is which option to choose. The first option is their front & back big brake package. $3200

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WILWOOD-DISC-BRAKE-KIT-65-82-CORVETTE-C2-C3-13-RED-DRL-/220612370222?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item335d859f2e
These Big Brake kits require at least 17" diameter wheels.

Front kit includes parts for both front wheels:
•Drilled & Slotted, 1.25" Thick x 13.06" O.D. Rotors
•Billet Superlite 6R Calipers - Red
•Caliper Mounting Brackets
•Spindle Mounting Brackets
•BP Smart Compound Brake Pads
•Brake Hats, &
•All Hardware necessary to install the complete braking system on both front wheels

Rear kit includes parts for both rear wheels:
•Drilled & Slotted, 1.10" Thick x 12.90" O.D. Rotors
•Billet Superlite 4R Calipers - Red
•Caliper Mounting Brackets
•BP Smart Compound Brake Pads
•Brake Hats, &
•All Hardware necessary to install the complete braking system on both rear wheels


Or I can buy separate caliper and rotor packages:

$1350 for the caliper Kit, includes parts for both front wheels:
•D8-6 Calipers - 6 Piston - Red
•BP-10 Smart Compound Brake Pads
•Stainless Steel Flexline Kit for Both Front Wheels

Kit includes parts for both rear wheels:
•D8-4 Calipers - 4 Piston - Red
•BP-10 Smart Compound Brake Pads
•Stainless Steel Flexline Kit for Both Rear Wheels


Then add on rotors for $450 (Wilwood Rotor Kit Front/Rear Drilled 65-82 Corvette C2/C3 (1Pc) 140-11727-D) and now I have a total cost of $1800.


So for the extra $1400 I get the superlite calipers and bigger 2 piece rotors. Am I missing something here? This seems like a lot of extra cost and no real added benefit? Is there a significant upgrade in performance to the bigger brake package?

I use BP 20 pads in my wilwood calipers and I have the most important item. The "Thermloc piston option"

how about option #3.

Front kit includes parts for both front wheels:
•Drilled & Slotted, 1.25" Thick x 13.06" O.D. Rotors
•Billet Superlite 6R Calipers - Red
•Caliper Mounting Brackets
•Spindle Mounting Brackets
•BP Smart Compound Brake Pads
•Brake Hats, &
•All Hardware necessary to install the complete braking system on both front wheels

Kit includes parts for both rear wheels:
•D8-4 Calipers - 4 Piston - Red
•BP-10 Smart Compound Brake Pads
•Stainless Steel Flexline Kit for Both Rear Wheels

That's a good option. I'm still wondering about what the big advantage is going from D8 std rotors to big brakes with 2 piece rotor. I've looked for trade articles but can't find any info. Looked on wilwood site and found nothing there either.

Try doing an advanced search on The Forum. When I did mine a few back I think I recall some posts about improved stopping distance by a memeber.

I went with the 6 piston front, 4 piston rear big brake package (2 piece, slotted only rotors) and it definitely seems to stop much shorter than previously. At the same time I did the Wilwood's I replaced the power booster/master cylinder with a billet aluminum master cylinder and an ABS electric booster so that regardless of engine rpm/vacuum the brakes are rock solid, its a great combo that I highly recommend. Saves weight at the wheel and under the hood. Tube A-Arms & QA coil overs all around take it to the next level.
:cheers:

The advantages to the aluminum hat two piece rotors:

The biggest thing is heat transfer from the outer steel rotor to the aluminum hat. With lots of heat x-fer it melts the wheel bearing grease.

Then weight and probably cost of just bolting on a new rotor ring.

If you have good enough tires and brakes on the front. When you stomp on the brakes, so much weight is transfered forward that you only want less rear line pressure, small rear calipers, and rotors to keep from locking the rears

What's your reasoning for the brake setup change? Thirty two hundred bucks is a lot of money. Is your car going to see any road course track time, or is it just a street machine?

69427,

On your question,...... so I'm doing a full resto-mod and I've gone top end stuff all the way (LS 480, RS500, FR Rack, Van Steel A-Arms & Coilover Suspension, Dakota Digital Gauges, Rear Diff Updated, VA Air Conditioning, C7 Seats), and I'm doing everything my self (or most of it). I've addressed almost all areas of the car except for braking.

In that area, I'm putting in a hydroboost system, with Wilwood MC. So now I'm looking at the brakes. I don't do anything but weekend cruising. I doubt I ever go to the track, but you never know. So as I'm evaluating the Wilwood options, I'm trying to balance the "cool factor" vs wasted money on the brakes. It appears that there is about $ 1k difference in the big brakes vs std D8's when your all said and done. That's a lot of money, but in the big picture of this car if there's a reasonable benefit then I can justify it. So the decision isn't $3200, it's about $ 1k ( the difference between the two).

I want the cool factor of the big breaks, but I'm struggling on the justification.

Well, it's your money so obviously spend it as you like.

I've got Wilwoods all around and they fit under my 15" street wheels (I like the stock look off-track). Along with a $35 C5 aluminum master cylinder I have less than a thousand bucks in my setup. Probably not much cool factor in my setup but it's significantly lighter weight and works great on track days.

How much is my option # 3 setup? bigger wheels can show off bigger brake rotors. You also need to remove the dust covers when you have it apart.

the front big brake kit goes for around $1600. Then you add$600 for reard D8-4's and a couple hundred for rotors and the total is now about $2400.

Someone told me not to mix the big brake kit in front with stock style in the back.... so there's one opinion on this option that says don't do it. I'm sure it's done often, though.

I've got the big brake set up on my car. It is an awesome set up. I agree with GKULL, get the BP20 pads.
The only change I could recomend is...
If you ever plan on having to drive in rain, do not get drilled rotors. With the big brakes the inner shield behind the rotors is deleted and when wet the rotors collect some water. Then when the brakes are applied the pads tend to suck the water out of the holes and you get a barrier between the pads and rotor for a brief period.
It will scare the s#%t out of you when it happens. Just do not expect to make a panic stop in the wet!

There is not an issue with this. Just make sure the master cylinder is sized correctly.

I use a stock MC and no hydroboost. My system is pretty balanced.

I think I'm going for the Big Brake package.

I went with Wilwood for the master cylinder. Originally I went with a 1 1/8" and have now changed to a 1" to increase line pressure. It was easier to go to 1" on the master cylinder than to change the pedal ratio.
It was just a mater of personal preference for me. I prefer the less pressure needed on the pedal for the feel (response) I get from the pedal.
I l

1" MC will have less effort and more travel than 1 1/8", i.e. the opposite of what you seem to be saying.

You are correct sir!
I obviously do not proof read before I post. Trying to multitask this afternoon... Cooking Christmas Eve dinner while cruising the forum. Something I obviously can't do!
Thank you!

I have adjusted my original post.

Now it makes sense. :thumbs:

Popular options for restomod big brake kits are:

Wilwoods
C6 Z06 kit
Baer 6Ps

I went with the 6Ps but they were really hard to install and I had to have brackets fabbed to fit properly. A 3000lb restomod probably doesnt need any of the big brake kits to stop properly.

Anything less than a big brake kit will probably hurt resale if that is a concern. Most new performance cars are coming out with 15.5" ceramic brakes. Even these big brake kits will be viewed as obsolete in a couple of years. It is more of a style thing than an actual need, lol.