Somewhat different run-flat question...
I have decided to go non-run-flat when I replace my tires -- definitely Michelins -- but have a question:
Because of poor camber from factory, I had to replace the front tires long before I replaced the rear. Since then I only replace two at a time. Can I run non-RFs on the back while running RFs on the front? Thanks Frank |
The go pedal and engine braking (if you have a manual tranny) accelerate rear tire wear. Many motorcycles experience the same phenomenon. For normal street driving, you shouldn't have any issues mixing run flats with non run flats. You'll like the non run-flat tires though. Pick up a small compressor and possibly a plug kit to carry in the trunk.
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Thanks, 8VETTE7 and 3sACROWD :)
It wasn't the back tires that wore out first -- just the fronts from bad camber from factory. I just happen to be in the cycle where I've already replaced the fronts with run-flats and have now been thinking about non-RFs for the rear as I go forward. When the fronts get replaced I'll go with non-RFs for them also. Thanks again... |
My car had non run flats on the back when I got it. It was fine till i got a flat and switched to run flats
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Originally Posted by decarmine
(Post 1586653366)
I have decided to go non-run-flat when I replace my tires -- definitely Michelins -- but have a question:
Because of poor camber from factory, I had to replace the front tires long before I replaced the rear. Since then I only replace two at a time. To add input to your question though, I cant see it being an issue as long as they are the same or very close speed/load rating. |
Originally Posted by camaroman1011
(Post 1586656925)
I insist on correcting this tidbit: If the vehicle is aligned to factory specs, its not poor camber - its performance camber. Coupled with the fact that you can not rotate OEM tires. That's why they tend to wear unevenly when alignment is within spec.
To add input to your question though, I cant see it being an issue as long as they are the same or very close speed/load rating. I don't remember whether the car was within factory specs when new but one front tire had worn so badly on the inside edge that at 17K miles the steel belts were not only visible but the metal strands had actually BROKEN and had sprung apart, sticking up like little steel pins. I bought two new tires at that time and had front camber set VERY CLOSE to zero. We've had no trouble with UNEVEN tire wear since then. The front tires were replaced at 17K miles and again around 40 or 42K. The rears were replaced at just under 30K and now at 55K are nearing end of life. Hence my original query... |
Originally Posted by decarmine
(Post 1586653366)
Can I run non-RFs on the back while running RFs on the front?
IMHO, your wheels and tires are the most critical safety components of your car. They are all that connect you to the road surface and keep you, your passenger and people sharing the road with you safe. Compromising on any one of those items can turn out to be a mistake you may regret. Just my two cents. |
Whatever you do, get a 4 wheel alignment when you get the tires replaced. The fronts wearing out before the rears is very unusual. You've got a problem in the front, find it and fix it.
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Originally Posted by Phanni
(Post 1586660618)
Whatever you do, get a 4 wheel alignment when you get the tires replaced. The fronts wearing out before the rears is very unusual. You've got a problem in the front, find it and fix it.
Had camber reset as close to nominal (-.20*) as possible (both front wheels) -- as part of 4-wheel alignment. Car is NOT Z06 but I believe camber from factory was more appropriate for Z06 specs. |
I never felt comfortable doing that but I can't sight any data that would tell you not to.
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Originally Posted by jrose7004
(Post 1586661970)
I never felt comfortable doing that but I can't sight any data that would tell you not to.
Not that I ever expected tires to be cheap on this car, however. But I keep hearing the ride improves dramatically once the RFs are gone. |
Update
Update: I just found the alignment results from 2008:
Before: Left front camber: -0.8 Right front camber: -0.8 After: Left front camber: -0.2 Right front camber: -0.1 As stated previously, after alignment front wear issue went away. Thanks to all for reading and responding to my query :) |
Did you buy the car new?
Those settings might be set for autocrossing. |
Originally Posted by Phanni
(Post 1586662370)
Did you buy the car new?
Those settings might be set for autocrossing. Those specs would be near nominal for Z06 (-0.7) but not for this car. |
FINAL update
After much soul-searching, I decided to replace all 4 tires. Rears were about 95% worn, fronts were 75%
Got Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 tires -- read good things about them in another thread on this forum. Got standard sizes (NOT Z06 sizes) from local vendor in Beverly Hills, Florida for under $1040. Also will get $70 gift card from Michelin. Thanks to all who read and responded. Frank |
Don't forget to get a tire inflator if you don't already have one.
In the last 400,000 miles I've driven (multiple vehicles), I've had 3 flats and none of them were blow outs. I was able to fill the tire and keep driving to a tire repair place. One tire had a pallet staple through the side wall. Since I knew it wasn't repairable and it was a Vette tire which isn't on the shelf, I drove 100 miles to my house. Had to make two stops along the way to pump up the tire but had no other issues. (I didn't let the pressure go below 20psi.) |
Originally Posted by 3sACROWD
(Post 1586671505)
Don't forget to get a tire inflator if you don't already have one.
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