383 stroker flywheel
 

I am putting building a 383 stroker with a eagle stroker kit that's externally balanced. Because I have a standard, I will need a flywheel. My question is that I've seen flywheels such as center force billets for $500 and $100 ones on ebay.
I need some help on making the correct slection. I'm racing the car, it's going to have around the 500 hp.
Any help would be great

Warren

Another question is if I can use my factory clutch setup. 327/300hp

Define "racing the car" - what kind of racing - drag racing, road-racing, autocrossing, or ??? :thumbs:

Make sure you run a SFI rated flywheel. Beyond that there are a ton of variables to consider as far as weight and materials for the flywheel.

Type of racing
Rpm band of hp and torque
How brutal are you on the shifts

Im so sorry. I meant to say that I will not be racing the car.

If you are not racing your car on a track that requires a SFI rating, than why not use a stock type flywheel that can be externally balanced with your current clutch setup. Make sure you get the correct tooth count on the flywheel. Summit has them for about $100. Billet flywheels are certainly nice, I run a RAM billet flywheel but I also spin my motor over 7,000 RPMS too. More than likely your 383 will be running to 5,500 RPMs or so.

Scott is absolutely correct, but I would still get a SFI flywheel......

you may not intend to race, but you will with 500 horses on tap

I'd like to know more about your build. Doing it yourself? What components?

Thanks for the info. Seemed like a big difference in price. I ended up with a oem stock for a 400 chev.
I have a machine shop putting together a 350 shortblock. Eagle 383 stroker kit. I will install Clay smith hydraulic roller cam 235/239 and 520/510 approx. My kind brother has given me set of afr 190 cc heads. I also have gold roller rockers. Clay smith roller lifters. Arp kit for assembling everything. Winters intake. I haven't got a carb yet but a friend of mine has a rebuilt holley 780 with vacuum secondaries that I may look at.
This all started with my brother giving me a set of awesome afr heads. I was originally going to install the heads on my 327/300 hp motor but I decided to keep the original motor intact.

That cam will be lopey at idle and 383 are super strong down low I think you will be better around 224- 228 durtion. 383 can be balanced with corroct harmonic balancer and use std fly wheel.

That flywheel size is not compatible with the '64 OEM bellhousing and starter. You'll have to swap those parts to the compatible size.

Well, sort of.
A GOOD machinist that does engine balancing on a regular basis can re-balance (or un-balance if you prefer) a neutral balance 153 teeth flywheel so that it can be used with a 383-400 simply by drilling material from one side of the flywheel (shown below).
This is the 153 teeth flywheel I used for the 383 in my 51 Chevy.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...e/100_3501.jpg

And, if a person should decide to have a 153 teeth flywheel machined into an EXternal balance flywheel, I would recommend rounding up another flywheel rather than have the original flywheel machined.
The 153 teeth flywheels are dirt cheap and plentiful at most swap meets.

Furthermore, the same thing can be done to a neutral balance 168 teeth flywheel to change it into an EXternal balance flywheel for use with a 383 or SB400---------------------or even a 454. Two of my SB400 engines have external balance 168 teeth flywheels that have been machined from neutral balance flywheels.
UNFORTUNATELY, I took this picture AFTER the engine was installed in the 56. But if you look closely, you can see the area on this 168 teeth flywheel where metal was milled from the front side of the flywheel for balancing the 400 (sorry, it's not a very good picture).
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...e/100_1228.jpg

I trust Chris from Straub Industries. He said that this cam will idle @ 750 and be fairly smooth. The Clay Smith web site also states the cam is designed to work with a 383 stroker and air flow research 190 -210 heads. 235 duration @ 0.050

I have two different suppliers telling me that this is the correct flywheel. I hope your not right.
Thanks for the heads up. I appreciate it.
:cheers:

That's fine but the OP indicated he bought an OEM 400 flywheel. All of those are the big wheel. Not the 153 tooth flywheel you're showing.

He also said his original 153 tooth flywheel was junk.

Now I'm even more confused in regards to flywheel/ bell housing/ starter fitment .
I think something like a Hays sfi flywheel will be a better idea than stock. I have a external balanced assembly that is a 2 piece rear seal with a m20 trans. My starter bolt configuration is straight across.
Whats my best choice? I have heard that a 168 tooth flywheel may not work with the bell housing I have. I did see that there are 621 bell housing kits for around $200 that would work with the 168 flywheel but I would need a different starter.
The stroker motor will be close to 500 hp so what is my best choice?

If you have an OEM 400 flywheel, that's a 14" 168-tooth flywheel, and it requires a 621 bellhousing and a starter with a cast iron nose and diagonally offset bolts. You'll also need a new clutch kit, as I think the 400 flywheel is only drilled for an 11" clutch.

I'm assuming your '64 currently has a 403 bellhousing, 12-3/4" 153-tooth flywheel, straight-across starter bolts, and a 10.5" clutch. :thumbs:

Just like DZ posted use a 153 flywheel and have it balanced with the rotating assembly, no big deal. Keep your stock bellhousing, starter and clutch setup if still good. Your machine shop should know this stuff, if not find one that does, its not hard.

Yep! That's the easy way out. And by far the cheapest.

Thanks for the great info. I was going to order a 168 tooth flywheel but didn't realize the ramifications. I will now get a sfi 153 tooth flywheel and use the bell housing and clutch that I have.
You guys are awesome!