Any tricks to getting PS hoses to stop leaking?
 

Like the title says, are there any tricks to getting the power steering hoses to seal correctly at the cylinder? It seems that no matter what I do, they leak. :ack: I replaced the hoses, cylinder and control valve two years ago and they seem to have started leaking this year. I don't want to overtighten them because it looks like they are brass fittings. What needs to be done or verified to ensure a proper seal. Is it a double flare fitting? If so, then it is a metal to metal seal which I guess could be prone to surface imperfections. Is there any sealant that will help in the joint? What about a dab of Teflon paste on the sealing surface? I'm pretty sure Teflon tape won't do anything on the threads because it's not a thread sealing joint. What about the condition of the end of the pipe and the inner seat? Would maybe some rubbing with scotch brite help? Looking for some tips!

Thanks, :thumbs:
Jim

Not a tip exactly, but I had the same issue. Ended up replacing the hoses and that solved all but one of the leaks. Very annoying.

I thought it was a feature of the car :P mine came with brand new (leaking) hoses on it and it seems this is an issue for many C3 owners...

I just went through the same issue. Do not put the teflon on the fitting - that will make it worse. Pull off and make sure the ends are clear of any debris. Put back on and don't be afraid to really tighten them. Once you run the car, loosen it a little and tighten it back again, this time making it a little tighter. It took about two times until I stopped the leak on all 5 connections with my new hoses.

I am also battling with leaking hoses. I got my '80 three years ago and it had a new control valve and hoses, but I have since found the hose connection was tightened so far that it cracked the housing of the control valve. That hairline crack weeps fluid all the time. I am seriously considering a Borgeson unit.

wow - yeah, that is what I'm afraid of... over tightening. Yes at this point I'm considering the Borgeson as well, but not in the budget at this time.

Good info. I am going to really CLOSELY inspect all of the mating surfaces and make sure they are perfect as can be. Maybe try some steel wool or scotch brite and be very careful about not getting any into the line. I will try to get a good look into the mating surface in the cylinder, if that's possible, and maybe burnish that as well.
thanks

are you talking pipe thread fittings or flare type fittings? flare fittings need to seat on the fitting and not be crooked try to line up the fitting and hose connection then thread the nut on while holding the flared parts together. teflon tape can cause trouble and should never be used on natural or propane gas lines or gasoline. a dab of rector seal #5 on the fitting may work well for you.

the PS fittings are flare fittings. :thumbs:

If we have this issue we will slightly loosen the hose nut and then re-tighten them. This will help seat them to the flare and stops the leak.

Willcox

Thanks. will try that. The funny thing is, I have managed to fix all of the other leaks (rear main seal, trans...) and now this is leaking. :rofl:

I hate leaks... they drive me nuts! My wife calls me the driveway police...

Don't fix the leaks. That is GM's way of preventing frame rust....:yesnod:

oh, so they went with the british system, smart.:lol:

believe me, my frame will NEVER RUST!:rofl:

not the hoses anyways
 

ok, now that I have taken a better look at it, the leak is coming from the PUMP SHAFT. I'm thinking this was caused when I had to drive it home dry after the cylinder seal blew out. Would running it dry for about a half hour ruin the pump? If the pump internals are toast then I would have to just replace it, and a rebuild would not do anything.

will I just ordered a reman unit from NAPA...

I thought PS, radiator, and transmission leaks were all standard issues with Vettes. AND garage floor leak pans were part of the purchase. LOL!

Sorry I did not get to this posting sooner.
Yes you could have failed the pump if you drove for 1/2 hour with the system dry. I would actually be most concerned about the pump internals such as rotor, ring, and plates being scored.

45 degree flare fittings were used on all power steering connections within General Motors until 1980. To be honest, the more you tighten a flare fitting the better is seals. (Obviously within reason, you can crack the casting by way over tighening.)

Saginaw Steering Gear Division recognized that most cast iron gears were being replaced by rack and pinion steering gears with aluminum valve housings. So my power steering hose group developed the metric 16x1.5mm and 18x1.5mm o-ring power steering connections as a low torque method of sealing hydraulic power steering fluid. These connections sealed better metal to metal than the 45 degree flare and also had a redundent hydraulic o-ring seal for added security. Since Corvette was converting to R&P steering in the 1984 model year, it was deemed not worth developing 14mm o-ring connectors for just the Corvette cylinder lines. That is why you find a metric 16x1.5mm o-ring seal on the pump connection on 1980 thru 1982 Vettes. (All GM passenger car pumps were converted to metric in 1980 as well.)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y38...Connection.jpg
Jim

wow - good info Jim, thanks. You reaffirmed my decision to replace the pump after running it dry.

Jim