Sequence for shimming convertible body on a new chassis?
 

I have had my 69' convertible apart for a few years and it is at the shop having the body moved from the old chassis(bad frame) to a rebuilt chassis. Body is moved now to new chassis. The shop does full restorations, but does not specialize in corvettes. They have my aim, and chassis restoration manual. They want to finish the body work and need to get the body gaps correct etc in order to do that.
Well, since this is a different chassis and someone replaced the solid shims with later rubber mounts we have no idea what number shims are needed where, also I realize it is most likely harder to get convertibles aligned as they are not as rigid.
Anyway, is there a rule of thumb or method to be used in the shimming/alignment process? The door of course have been off the car, so they have to be re-aligned also. I thought that for the most part the number 3 and 4 mounts would affect the door gaps the most, right?
The adjustment for say the back upper edge of the door where it meets the rear quarter panel can really only be adjusted by adjusting the door, right? Body shims will not help with that, correct?

I have no experience with adjusting the body and I am looking for direction here. I assume many of you have done this many times and seen all kinds of weird issues.

Thanks,
Joe

Hi Joe,
I believe the usual procedure used for putting a body back on the same chassis should be proper for putting the body on a different chassis also.
Remember, in St.Louis when the frame went into the jig to be measured in order to determine the # of shims required at each body mount, the body was on a different line, and the 2 hadn't even been introduced to each other yet.
So I'd recommend putting 3 shims on each mount, then set the body in place, and begin to add or remove shims in order to obtain the gaps and panel fit you're looking for.
Unless something is tweaked this can often be done with 2, 3, 4, shims at each location, with an occasional 1 or 5.
I'd certainly check the fit of the front and rear bumpers too while working on the shim requirements.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

Hi Joe, haven't talked to you in awhile. Hope everything is well. I was wondering if I would be going up and down with the body to frame when I get to that point. Alan's information sounds like a good starting point. Can you keep me posted or all of us as to how and what worked for you?
Thanks
Your Friend
Roger

when you have an unknown or different setup,
I start with 2 shims in all the inaccessible mount positions.
then add shims as needed to the accessible areas, until everything is level/and evenly distributed. good luck

I know this is dumb but as a retired carpenter what am I looking to be level. The body side to side front to back. Start with 2 shims in #2 & # 3. I think #1 & # 4 I can reach. Just want to be clear.
Thank You
Roger:crazy:

On my '73 vert, I started with 2 shims on both #2 and #3 mounts and checked for level... You can add/subtract shims from #4 mounts to adjust the quarter panel to rear door gaps... Ended up with just two under each #1 mount... Remember to torque the bolts to factory specs each time you adjust shims...

Rogman

#1 your looking to verify the body sits on the frame level, besure frame is leveled first.
your looking for uniform height all the way around the car, usually checked at wheelwells.
your looking to ensure your doors sit in the opening squarely.
After everything looks good... my final gauge, is how much weight rests on each mount pad,
you want to have app. same weight on each pad. increase or decrease shims as required.
This is the height shimming process, Body side-side, and front to back, is a bigger can of worms.
good luck...