lt1 id ...Help..
 

Can anyone id this engine
v1201wha on the engine pad
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...psf5830792.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...psefaeba29.jpg

F-body LT1. 275 hp as installed in an F-bod with the cast manifolds and single exhaust. 2 bolt mains is the only meaningful diff between the 'Vette LT1 and the F-bod LT1...and that isn't very "meaningful".

Anyway to tell what year ? I thought the groove across the front of the intake was vette specific.

IDK the year....maybe someone else can give you an idea.

Clues that it's an F-bod; exhaust manifolds, Fuel lines on the driver's side (they're on the passenger's side in a 'Vette, and the stamped valve covers. All F-body pieces.

Aluminum heads tell you that it's not from a Caprice/Roadmaster.

That is the fuel crossover ('94 - '97)


This will give you more info:
http://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LT1.html

The OP has only supplied the BLOCK ID so:

WHA I believe that you would find is a '94 Roadmaster/Impala 260HP

FYI all the "B" body cars had iron heads - both the 350" and 265" motors.

Nasty Z28 says V1201WHA would be a Flint MI made block on december 1, but whoooh, the WHA is for a '94 impala or buick. U got a "B" body block with alum LT1 heads on it my friend.:yesnod:

Gen I sbc had a date code cast into the block on the pass side rear of block just behind the head. Dont know if true for the GEN II blocks but u can look.

Hope this helps ya.

I have a 94 vette . Would this engine work as a good builder for my car. I want to start building the engine now and do a swap when its done . That way it puts down time to a minimum.

ttt

What are your goals,, criteria and budget?

It could work, but so could an LT1 bare block depending on what you're going to do.

Well it is a match. No telling what the internals condition are in. But it will need to use the "late" pin drive opti-spark distributor with that timing cover. No big deal as its an inprovement over the early shaft drive opti and thats what i have in my '94 now. U will need an different wiring adapter for the opti and need to plumb in some tubing for the opti "vent". Again no big deal as one end takes suction on the inlet elbow and the other discharges to the intake manifold through a tee.

Congrats as u will have fun rebuilding from a core block and adding as u go/can afford. One thing pecular to the GEN II block is a ball installed in an oil galley through the main cap (pass side i recall) that really needs to come out when tanking/cleaning the block. And most deffinatly has to go back in before assembly. U nock i out with a long thin punch/drift from the top of the block at the "china wall".

Good luck and let us know if we can help along the way. The small block chevy has nearly endless options and interchanges possible so u have plenty of fun ahead just deciding what u build. Stroker cranks are nearly as cheep as a turned down & polished original crank and rotating kits have it all figured out for u while budget priced and hard to beat. Check out Flantlander racing for some awesome pricing.:thumbs:
But first get that block inspected and cleaned.:yesnod: