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-   -   Installing side pipes, how high to raise front of car? (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3655219-installing-side-pipes-how-high-to-raise-front-of-car.html)

jotto 05-21-2015 05:23 AM

Installing side pipes, how high to raise front of car?
 
It appears the easiest way to install side pipe headers is from below.
For those that did it this way, how high did you raise the car for access? Are jack stands ok or drive on ramps? What did you do and any pics?
TIA.

resdoggie 05-21-2015 06:21 AM

I have hooker side pipes. I used my floor jack with a maximum lift of about 18" under the crossmember forward of the engine and floor jacks on both frame rails and they slipped in from underneath without any problems. However, I have a 4-sp and had to remove the z-bar and also the oil pressure switch. I don't have A/C so the right side was even easier.

jotto 05-21-2015 06:48 AM

Thanks for the info. Mine is also a 4 speed and I do have air con but it is not working so it may well be removed at the time of the swap.

resdoggie 05-21-2015 09:23 AM

I may have had to put a block of wood on the jacking pad to gain an extra few inches. If the car isn't raised high enough, you'll never get them on.

jotto 05-21-2015 11:33 AM


Originally Posted by resdoggie (Post 1589673993)
I may have had to put a block of wood on the jacking pad to gain an extra few inches. If the car isn't raised high enough, you'll never get them on.

Perhaps I could put the axle stands on some concrete blocks I have lying around. Would hate to get her up only to find I just needed that little extra clearance!

A lift would be so much easier.....wonder if I could convince the wife we need one! :smash:

resdoggie 05-21-2015 12:43 PM

Don't use concrete blocks to support a vehicle. That's your safety tip of the week!

leadfoot4 05-21-2015 06:42 PM

Set the headers on the ground, with the flanges/primaries oriented "upright", as they'd be in the car. Measure from the top of the flange to the ground. THAT is how high the car has to be off the ground, as the whole kit and caboddle has to slide under the car, THEN up into the engine compartment.

'75 05-21-2015 08:54 PM

I found that for the side pipe headers, it works well if the rear of the car is jacked up higher than the front.

worship79 05-23-2015 10:15 AM

Had to raise the car about 40cm. Can't use a drive on ramps.

jotto 08-02-2015 11:34 AM

Finally got the old girl up in the air but with my small jack and jack stands its not quite high enough!
Im getting about 40cm or 15 1/2 inches from floor to bottom of frame rail so Im going to order a larger jack with a max saddle height of 52cm or 20 1/2 inches and also get some axle stands to suit! :willy:

Aggitated Monkey 08-02-2015 01:48 PM


Originally Posted by jotto (Post 1590183224)
Finally got the old girl up in the air but with my small jack and jack stands its not quite high enough!
Im getting about 40cm or 15 1/2 inches from floor to bottom of frame rail so Im going to order a larger jack with a max saddle height of 52cm or 20 1/2 inches and also get some axle stands to suit! :willy:

When I instsalled mine I had 16" from frame to floor just in front of the doors. Placed jack stands at front frame horns. Had plenty of room and the side pipe headers went in very easy.

jotto 08-02-2015 01:57 PM


Originally Posted by Aggitated Monkey (Post 1590183867)
When I instsalled mine I had 16" from frame to floor just in front of the doors. Placed jack stands at front frame horns. Had plenty of room and the side pipe headers went in very easy.

Mine seem to be getting hung up at 15 1/2 inches. :ack: Not getting caught on the axle stands and I dont appear to have plenty of room! New jack and axle stands on order so hopefully tomorrow I will have drivers side installed.

Dumb question but I didnt think to put the axle stands under the frame horns, I assume this is an OK place to put them? :cheers:

Going back to leadfoots post, there is no way the headers will simply go under and slide up, as far as I can see they need to go in and under at an angle to go around steering box etc. Monkey, did you remove the senders on the drivers side of the block?

Aggitated Monkey 08-02-2015 02:46 PM


Originally Posted by jotto (Post 1590183921)
Mine seem to be getting hung up at 15 1/2 inches. :ack: Not getting caught on the axle stands and I dont appear to have plenty of room! New jack and axle stands on order so hopefully tomorrow I will have drivers side installed.

Dumb question but I didnt think to put the axle stands under the frame horns, I assume this is an OK place to put them? :cheers:

Going back to leadfoots post, there is no way the headers will simply go under and slide up, as far as I can see they need to go in and under at an angle to go around steering box etc. Monkey, did you remove the senders on the drivers side of the block?

Jack stands at the front in front of suspension was very sturdy.
At 16" at the front door edge I had enough room to go in with the collectors tilted up until the flanges cleared the frame then roll up into place. The oil sender needs to be removed along with plugs on left side. Needs a dent put in the tube at the steering box or it touched the box. Right side was easier. Went in with plugs in and wires pulled. Easiest headers I ever installed. I have the stainless maximums. I think OBX is the same. Both are Hooker copies.
For the "T" bolts going into the side frame for the side pipes I put those spring nuts on (as I call them) flat push on that keep the "T" bolts in place making it easier to put the rubber washers, washers and nuts on with out fighting with the "T"bolts.

7t9l82 08-02-2015 04:31 PM

I agree, the easiest to install.

worship79 08-02-2015 07:02 PM


Originally Posted by Aggitated Monkey (Post 1590184105)
Jack stands at the front in front of suspension was very sturdy.
At 16" at the front door edge I had enough room to go in with the collectors tilted up until the flanges cleared the frame then roll up into place. The oil sender needs to be removed along with plugs on left side. Needs a dent put in the tube at the steering box or it touched the box. Right side was easier. Went in with plugs in and wires pulled. Easiest headers I ever installed. I have the stainless maximums. I think OBX is the same. Both are Hooker copies.
For the "T" bolts going into the side frame for the side pipes I put those spring nuts on (as I call them) flat push on that keep the "T" bolts in place making it easier to put the rubber washers, washers and nuts on with out fighting with the "T"bolts.

This. And the temp sensor. If alone; I first slide the header under the car and then grab the flange from above to tilt and guide the header up 'n over, whilst lifting it under the collector with my right foot.

Aggitated Monkey 08-02-2015 11:11 PM


Originally Posted by worship79 (Post 1590185436)
This. And the temp sensor. If alone; I first slide the header under the car and then grab the flange from above to tilt and guide the header up 'n over, whilst lifting it under the collector with my right foot.

Same here. I used a 1 gal thiner can a a 2x4 under the collector to give my foot a rest LOL.
All went together easily.

kevinll63 08-02-2015 11:17 PM

You guys remember that 30 pack that you will need

htown81vette 08-03-2015 12:19 AM

The best way is to invest in a 2 post 9,000 lb lift. That's what I'm considering doing. Been putting it off for way too long...

worship79 08-03-2015 03:53 AM


Originally Posted by kevinll63 (Post 1590186860)
You guys remember that 30 pack that you will need

:cheers:

I have a cooled compartment in my toolcart :D

Vette-kid 08-03-2015 08:49 PM

Installing side pipes, how high to raise front of car?
 
Hmmm, i was able to get mine out and back in with the car on 6 inch ramps.


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