changed right front caliper and it still hangs up and pulls to the right 1982
the pads were twice as worn as the left, the rotor seems more polished and wearing quicker, than the left, which showed no such wear
i bought the car like that installed braided steel lines and bled, did not help i tired to rebuild it but the seals would not go in and besides the bores were pitted like hell. so i gave up on it yesterday i bought a rebuilt from orielly and it felt good in my hands, everything moved freely. http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...psedsli7kw.jpg http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...psxzupb03y.jpg http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...psrltatotk.jpg http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...psp8hmol7f.jpg the driver side pistons don't seem to moved as freely, upon inspection before i pony up for another caliper, what is this I keep reading about rotor run-out in the c2-c3? is this a symptom of this disease? |
A rear rotor placed on the front could. Make sure the rotor is well centered in the caliper and the pads are free.
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Originally Posted by wombvette
(Post 1591163571)
A rear rotor placed on the front could. Make sure the rotor is well centered in the caliper and the pads are free.
the preponderance of wear in on the front face surface not the rear, i though the rear rotors were offset to the rears more and the pads wore evenly albeit accelerated, i felt the wheels after a drive and for sure the front right was hotter than the left front, it was dragging way more and dusting the trim chrome rims black more than any other this is before i got the new caliper in |
The problem is more than likely the left caliper is NOT working and the right one is doing all the work...hence pulling and wearing pads more. Go to the other side and inspect that caliper/hose etc.
JIM |
Could there be some mechanical resistance between the caliper and the bolts/pins on which they position themselves during operation. If the caliper can't move freely, you could end up with the condition you are describing.
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replace the rubber hoses, they can deteriorate from the in side and close up, also check for and kinked metal lines
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Not sure what you did with the pads but on some vehicles I have had pull problems if I replaced brake pads on one wheel and not the axle set.
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Hanging up
Originally Posted by 4 speed
(Post 1591163680)
replace the rubber hoses, they can deteriorate from the in side and close up, also check for and kinked metal lines
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
(Post 1591163655)
The problem is more than likely the left caliper is NOT working and the right one is doing all the work...hence pulling and wearing pads more. Go to the other side and inspect that caliper/hose etc.
JIM The right side pads are worn more than the left side because the right side is working. |
+2 for Jim above.
Runout would show itself by pumping air into the caliper, and would take a little time to happen. It is not a bad idea to check runout, and then mark rotor location/shims. Good Luck |
I think you've only done half the job. If the bores were "pitted like hell," you should have replaced both calipers. You should also replace pads on both sides at the same time and make certain both rotors are in identical condition.
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Originally Posted by Zoix
(Post 1591163955)
Agreed check the flexible line.
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
(Post 1591163673)
Could there be some mechanical resistance between the caliper and the bolts/pins on which they position themselves during operation. If the caliper can't move freely, you could end up with the condition you are describing.
|
Originally Posted by 4 speed
(Post 1591163680)
replace the rubber hoses, they can deteriorate from the in side and close up, also check for and kinked metal lines
|
Originally Posted by pltmgr
(Post 1591163744)
Not sure what you did with the pads but on some vehicles I have had pull problems if I replaced brake pads on one wheel and not the axle set.
they"appeared" to be the same "semi metallic" thats what i did first, i thought they were different one side performance and one not, i was wrong |
Originally Posted by 74modified
(Post 1591164945)
+2 for Jim above.
Runout would show itself by pumping air into the caliper, and would take a little time to happen. It is not a bad idea to check runout, and then mark rotor location/shims. Good Luck |
Originally Posted by 454Luvr
(Post 1591164962)
I think you've only done half the job. If the bores were "pitted like hell," you should have replaced both calipers. You should also replace pads on both sides at the same time and make certain both rotors are in identical condition.
so you are saying i pony up for a new caliper... |
I've work on lots of older Vettes. I've gone to people houses and picked the car up to bring them to the shop and I've had some scary rides:(
The brake lines are often internally rusted. I've had unequal braking causing the car to pull left or right. I've also had brake drag after applying the brakes on just one caliper. So much rust that it would not release. I would replace all the lines. Rusted pistons usually just leak, but they work. |
Originally Posted by gkull
(Post 1591165758)
I've work on lots of older Vettes. I've gone to people houses and picked the car up to bring them to the shop and I've had some scary rides:(
The brake lines are often internally rusted. I've had unequal braking causing the car to pull left or right. I've also had brake drag after applying the brakes on just one caliper. So much rust that it would not release. I would replace all the lines. Rusted pistons usually just leak, but they work. the fluid is crystal clear, and has been maintained it's whole life |
Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
(Post 1591163655)
The problem is more than likely the left caliper is NOT working and the right one is doing all the work...hence pulling and wearing pads more. Go to the other side and inspect that caliper/hose etc.
JIM On these four piston units...it is best to replace the fronts in pairs.... Jebby |
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