CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion

CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/)
-   C3 Tech/Performance (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance-3/)
-   -   changed right front caliper and it still hangs up and pulls to the right 1982 (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3757093-changed-right-front-caliper-and-it-still-hangs-up-and-pulls-to-the-right-1982-a.html)

slickfx3 12-22-2015 12:40 AM

changed right front caliper and it still hangs up and pulls to the right 1982
 
the pads were twice as worn as the left, the rotor seems more polished and wearing quicker, than the left, which showed no such wear

i bought the car like that

installed braided steel lines and bled, did not help

i tired to rebuild it but the seals would not go in and besides the bores were pitted like hell.

so i gave up on it

yesterday i bought a rebuilt from orielly and it felt good in my hands, everything moved freely.


http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...psedsli7kw.jpg


http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...psxzupb03y.jpg

http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...psrltatotk.jpg

http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...psp8hmol7f.jpg

the driver side pistons don't seem to moved as freely, upon inspection

before i pony up for another caliper,

what is this I keep reading about rotor run-out in the c2-c3? is this a symptom of this disease?

wombvette 12-22-2015 01:17 AM

A rear rotor placed on the front could. Make sure the rotor is well centered in the caliper and the pads are free.

slickfx3 12-22-2015 01:47 AM


Originally Posted by wombvette (Post 1591163571)
A rear rotor placed on the front could. Make sure the rotor is well centered in the caliper and the pads are free.

yes they were// are, i spun the rotor and felt moderate friction, not unlike all the other rotors in the world, that i have messed with including the left side

the preponderance of wear in on the front face surface not the rear, i though the rear rotors were offset to the rears more

and the pads wore evenly albeit accelerated, i felt the wheels after a drive and for sure the front right was hotter than the left front, it was dragging way more and dusting the trim chrome rims black more than any other this is before i got the new caliper in

427Hotrod 12-22-2015 02:26 AM

The problem is more than likely the left caliper is NOT working and the right one is doing all the work...hence pulling and wearing pads more. Go to the other side and inspect that caliper/hose etc.

JIM

7T1vette 12-22-2015 02:46 AM

Could there be some mechanical resistance between the caliper and the bolts/pins on which they position themselves during operation. If the caliper can't move freely, you could end up with the condition you are describing.

4 speed 12-22-2015 02:53 AM

replace the rubber hoses, they can deteriorate from the in side and close up, also check for and kinked metal lines

pltmgr 12-22-2015 05:04 AM

Not sure what you did with the pads but on some vehicles I have had pull problems if I replaced brake pads on one wheel and not the axle set.

Zoix 12-22-2015 07:30 AM

Hanging up
 

Originally Posted by 4 speed (Post 1591163680)
replace the rubber hoses, they can deteriorate from the in side and close up, also check for and kinked metal lines

Agreed check the flexible line.

wendellp601 12-22-2015 08:28 AM


Originally Posted by 427Hotrod (Post 1591163655)
The problem is more than likely the left caliper is NOT working and the right one is doing all the work...hence pulling and wearing pads more. Go to the other side and inspect that caliper/hose etc.

JIM

:iagree:
The right side pads are worn more than the left side because the right side is working.

74modified 12-22-2015 10:25 AM

+2 for Jim above.
Runout would show itself by pumping air into the caliper, and would take a little time to happen. It is not a bad idea to check runout, and then mark rotor location/shims. Good Luck

454Luvr 12-22-2015 10:27 AM

I think you've only done half the job. If the bores were "pitted like hell," you should have replaced both calipers. You should also replace pads on both sides at the same time and make certain both rotors are in identical condition.

slickfx3 12-22-2015 11:55 AM


Originally Posted by Zoix (Post 1591163955)
Agreed check the flexible line.

i wrote i put in braided lines, see pics

slickfx3 12-22-2015 11:56 AM


Originally Posted by 7T1vette (Post 1591163673)
Could there be some mechanical resistance between the caliper and the bolts/pins on which they position themselves during operation. If the caliper can't move freely, you could end up with the condition you are describing.

c3 brakes are fixed calipers and don't move the pistons do

slickfx3 12-22-2015 11:57 AM


Originally Posted by 4 speed (Post 1591163680)
replace the rubber hoses, they can deteriorate from the in side and close up, also check for and kinked metal lines

before the brakes would warm i could lock both sides and i bled the left/both sides fine, they squirt out just fine

slickfx3 12-22-2015 11:59 AM


Originally Posted by pltmgr (Post 1591163744)
Not sure what you did with the pads but on some vehicles I have had pull problems if I replaced brake pads on one wheel and not the axle set.

forgot to mention i flip flopped the pads, left to right and right to left

they"appeared" to be the same "semi metallic"

thats what i did first, i thought they were different one side performance and one not, i was wrong

slickfx3 12-22-2015 12:00 PM


Originally Posted by 74modified (Post 1591164945)
+2 for Jim above.
Runout would show itself by pumping air into the caliper, and would take a little time to happen. It is not a bad idea to check runout, and then mark rotor location/shims. Good Luck

always a hard pedal, even to this minute, no air,, i hope i don't have to ck run out

slickfx3 12-22-2015 12:03 PM


Originally Posted by 454Luvr (Post 1591164962)
I think you've only done half the job. If the bores were "pitted like hell," you should have replaced both calipers. You should also replace pads on both sides at the same time and make certain both rotors are in identical condition.

just bought the car, i see receipt (recent) with new right front caliper, that, did not look like it

so you are saying i pony up for a new caliper...

gkull 12-22-2015 12:18 PM

I've work on lots of older Vettes. I've gone to people houses and picked the car up to bring them to the shop and I've had some scary rides:(

The brake lines are often internally rusted. I've had unequal braking causing the car to pull left or right. I've also had brake drag after applying the brakes on just one caliper. So much rust that it would not release.

I would replace all the lines.

Rusted pistons usually just leak, but they work.

slickfx3 12-22-2015 12:39 PM


Originally Posted by gkull (Post 1591165758)
I've work on lots of older Vettes. I've gone to people houses and picked the car up to bring them to the shop and I've had some scary rides:(

The brake lines are often internally rusted. I've had unequal braking causing the car to pull left or right. I've also had brake drag after applying the brakes on just one caliper. So much rust that it would not release.

I would replace all the lines.

Rusted pistons usually just leak, but they work.

you mean all the lines in the car?

the fluid is crystal clear, and has been maintained it's whole life

Jebbysan 12-22-2015 12:42 PM


Originally Posted by 427Hotrod (Post 1591163655)
The problem is more than likely the left caliper is NOT working and the right one is doing all the work...hence pulling and wearing pads more. Go to the other side and inspect that caliper/hose etc.

JIM

:iagree:

On these four piston units...it is best to replace the fronts in pairs....

Jebby


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:46 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands