Changing the Z06 A8 trans fluid and filter.
 

Now that the manuals are out can anyone post the information. I maybe doing this over the winter. Thanks

I believe that this is a 'semi-sealed' unit now, and it's relatively difficult to change the oil/filter.

Since the change interval is so long on the A8, why do you feel the need to change it so quickly?

Bish

I have the same question. The car isn't that old and the fluid in any automatic transmission produced by any company will last a lot longer than a year and for many 10s of thousands of miles. If you are planning on trading the car in less than 10 years from the time you purchased it all you are doing is wasting money.

Bill

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...46d011f256.jpg


Leave the A8 alone.

My friend's A8 is giving his trouble. The dealer contacted GM, and they told the dealer not to do anything to it. We will send a new A8 for you to install (warranty), you remove the old A8, and send it to us unopened.

If you deviate from the owners manual it may ...it may void the warranty.

This is newer technology. The ATF on the 4L60E (93-96 Vettes) was good for 100,000 miles, and they didn't have a cooler. Just the lines thru the radiator.

I assume you are not tracking the car?
If you do and somewhat regularly then the Corvette manual for "Severe" conditions recommends 45,000 mile change of the fluid/filter. Same for the differential fluid at 45k...(and many change the differential much sooner).

Yes, I take the car to the track. I would like the information in case I would want to change it.

Severe definition:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f8354782a6.jpg


Severe Schedule:


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4f03039038.jpg

Thanks much for taking the time to post this information and I may not change the trans fluid for some time, but I still would like the manual's trans/filter change info if anyone has it.

PS: I did change the differential fluid with what GM specs for the rear, approx. 3 quarts to fill which I did at 1,500 miles. Between what the old fluid looked like compared to the new and the amount of magnetic sludge on the magnet drain plug I'm glad I changed it.

It maybe a good while before I think about changing the trans fluid but I would still like to know procedure, amount, etc. :cheers:

It's not something that can be done DIY. It requires a tank with pump that connects to the trans cooler to pump out existing fluid and replace with fresh. Most of the trans fluid is held in the torque converter, not the pan or filter. That can only be replaced by pumping action through the converter. You'll need to go to a transmission shop, tho' some quick-lube stores have the machine as well.

It says change fluid and filter, where is the filter located if there is no pan to remove?

Bump

See above from December. :smash:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6708c0478a.jpg


The atf left in the pan was fine. Will probably hold off doing this again for a while.

How did you get the fluid out of the converter where most of it resides?

He didn't. Because you can't without a pump inline with the trans cooler. Or by dropping the trans and removing the torque converter.

Wack story. Went to Chevy dealership for an appointment. Time is golden. Ended up waiting over an hour and a half for the job too even start. Discussed the need for the car to be warm with the SA. Turns out, they did not have a T adapter which was needed to actually flush the entire system. They ended up dropping the pan. It was a huge f-in mess. A total of only 8 quarts of fluid used. $285. Should of listened to Bill Dearborn who did not think this was necessary. On the other hand, I have three track days this upcoming month. And this WAS the first Z this particular dealership had changed the fluid on.

Pan pic
 

JMHO, By looking at the fluid and the pan with the magnets from the pic everything looks "great" so no real need for a fluid change.

If the pan would of had darken discolored trans fluid and/or clutch materials in the bottom along with magnetic muck on the magnetics then a fluid change is in order.

This pan was clean in my book so I most likely would have reinstalled the pan and replaced the fluid. One reason that I would consider doing this is I have read a few posts that pressure changing of fluid has caused some trans problems in the past which the trans did not have before the pressure fluid change.

PS: The one good thing that I would of taken away from this experience is that the trans is still in good shape with little to no wear on the internals. :thumbs:

Good info. Had I known the dealership did not have the proper tools, would have held off this. Now I have old ATF intermixed with 8Qts of new fluid. Not thrilled about this. Mostly b/c I burned the better part of one full day waiting for this to be done, but it was not done right.

It's still a good thing adding in 8 fresh quarts of trans fluid in my book from my experience below.

I had an "A6" 2010 Grand Sport which "still" holds the stock GS 1/4 mile record on this forum this many years later. It started to shift funny sometimes during regular driving; harsher down shifts when coming to a stop. I change the trans fluid and filter by dropping just the pan which does not remove all the fluid in the trans or converter.

THE RESULTS: The trans was right back to the day I bought the car (smooth as ice) and stayed that way for the rest of the time I had the car and I raced it much after the fluid & filter change. PS: However my pan and fluid was not clean at all, muck on the magnet and laying in the pan along with some discoloration of the trans fluid. :cheers:

EDIT: After drying "everything" up well underneath "I" would give it a few days to a week but I would check to see that there are no leaks around the pan, etc.