Anyone have yet another Oil Pan Leak?
 

I have owned 2 C6's now and each of them have had oil pan leaks. I really am disgusted with GM on this. How many owners have experienced this issue?

2005 C6 coupe 75K miles mobil 1 5w30
2008 Z06 24K mobil 1 5w30

GM really needs to get there $hit together!

Please post mileage and year.

My 07 started leaking in 2010 @ about 3,800 miles. I waited until 12/2012 (about same miles) to have it replaced. Now with 6,457 miles it's still good. I look at it EVERY time I walk under it. There seems to be no rhyme or reason for it. My buddy in CA has an identical car built 7 ahead of mine with the same mileage now and has never had the issue. Unrelated...we both have the sticky solenoid issue. Mine started a couple of years ago, his started last week. Go figure.

My 2006 with 90k+ miles just started showing a little seepage from the gasket, no drops on the garage floor... yet. :cheers:

Bought a 2007 Vert two years ago with 17500 miles on it. When putting it away at the end of the season a small leak occurred. At the start of the next season changed oil, wiped down pan and torqued down pan bolts, no leak all season. When putting the car away at the end of the season, again the small leak. Looks like this will be a yearly occurrence from now on........

I have a 2007 LS-2 with 53,000 miles and no leak at all. My garage floor where I park it is dry.

I had an 05 with 14K miles and replaced the weeping pan gasket before selling it..Was over $800 to repair.

Has anyone ever tried using that "Flex Seal" stuff they show on TV ??.......hope BRUZE doesn't see this....:hide::hide::hide:

I've had four LS2/3 motored cars, with collective mileage well over 300,000 and rising. Not a single oil pan leak in any of them to date.

My highest mileage one was a 2006 LS2 -- 100,000 miles on that one and never an oil leak.

Wut? :confused:

I had mine replaced two years ago. No problems since

my 07 leaked while under the powertrain warranty and it was fixed, has been fine since and I am at over 70,000 miles now

Our 2009 started seeping at about 30k miles/2 yrs, just enough to make the pan look grungy but no drips.

Dealer tightened the bolts with a 6 foot cheater bar (joking) and when I last looked at about 80k miles, still good.

2008 13,000 LS3 fixed 6 months ago $900

08 26k. The pan was covered with an oil film when I bought it.
It is still covered but hasn't dripped in the 1500 miles I have driven it. I will leave it alone as long as it isn't spraying all over the undercarriage. Don't get me wrong, it still irritates me.

My 2007 was seeping from the front and right side of the pan gasket. No drips on the floor but oil residue on the pan and front cross member. I raised the engine off the mounts about an inch. Then I lowered the cradle about 1.5 inches removed the pan and changed the pan gasket myself. Total cost not including oil and filter was around $40 for the OEM gasket and sealer. It just takes time to do this and some frustration but not hard.

same thing,
although on the ls swap project i have, the oil pan bolt specs are 22in lbs. every time i use that spec it leaks. now i just use the german spec of Gootentight and the leaks stopped.

Both of mine have the leak. Not enough to hit the garage floor, though. :)

LOL...don't panic buddy....I was just having some fun and see what kind of response it would get. So far no bites but I guess it doesn't really warrant one anyway.....:crazy::crazy::crazy:

There was a recall on some LS3 blocks for weeping blocks. Under the oil pressures our engines give some blocks are porous and seep out the block itself. My LS3 block did that around the crank area.

'08 at 129K and no leaks ever.

As far as GM getting their $hit together, for the cost, they're already doing a good job. Rarely are there oil leaks and the cost to machine the blocks different for other labor intensive sealing solutions doesn't warrant the cost to repair the few that leak.

Actually the gaskets themselves are a pretty good design and I doubt that most of the leakage complaints are directly related to the pan gasket. Of course, when a dealer sees an opportunity for labor, they prefer the flat rate vs an hourly rate. So if they can do a repair with a minimum of labor in relation to the book flat rate, the difference is pure profit. If you can see a rivet between the second and third bolt from the front of the pan (it's how the factory locates the gasket) it's pretty unlikely the gasket has ever been replaced.

The most likely opportunity for an oil leak (actual dripping) is at the 3-way intersection of the block, pan, and front or rear cover. That's the point that a small ribbon of sealant (hopefully) fills the gap left where the gaskets meet. If the leak is minimal at those locations, a bit of brake cleaner and a dab of silicone can seal up the opening. Wait for the silicone to set-up, but not completely cure and then re-torque all the bolts.
Seepage in other locations is usually just a matter of re-torquing the bolts. A bit of brake cleaner spray to remove oil spots will help identify where leaks or seepage may re-occur.

Alignment of the pan surface to block surface at the rear is =/- .004" and those bolts only torque to 106 #" vs all the others, including the front cover at 18 # '.