Front shock upper bolt
 

I've been checking the torque on the front suspension. What is the best I ( I mean easiest) method for getting to upper bolts on front (magnetic) shocks)?

I've never been there on the front, nor have I ever torqued the rear ones any of the several times they've been out. If/when the shocks ever fail, I plan to pretty much replace the whole suspension and I'll deal with it then. I'm only at 132K now, so it could be a while. :D

If you accomplish this, I'd appreciate a short how-to write up. :flag:

I changed the front mag shocks on my ZR1 a couple of months ago (leaking -warranty job). Easy to get to from the engine compt. All I did was lift up the rubber flap on the pass. side & I think I swung the coolant reservoir out of the way on the left side.

Next to impossible to put a torque wrench on it. I just tightened them down and move on. I have changed shock 4 times in 10 years. Z06, Bilstiens, Pfadt Coilovers, LG coilover, with no issues.

Crowfoot adapter

aI'll check from under hood tomorrow. I've been getting a clunk sound from the left front wheel on occasion, only on a downward suspension movement. I've checked end links, lower shock bolts, all suspension parts in that area. As mentioned it is only on occasion from the left front on a downward movement not necessarily a pot hole which I always avoid. There is no vibration in steering wheel at all, and the alignment is right on.
Thanks for the suggestion for getting to the upper bolt.

On checking this morning it seems to be the coolant reservoir that would have to be moved over to get to that upper bolt on shock. On visual inspection all seems tight I am going to check those end links again and go up a little on the torque. Would 60 be a safe number to up on torque of end links?

If they're seemingly tight already, torqueing them to a higher value isn't going to do anything.

It looks like the torque spec is 44 lb-ft + 30 degrees for a '13 Z06.

Found another chart in the GM eSI software that also lists 56 lb-ft as a spec.

You could have worn or bad end links. In that case they will still make noise even with the nuts tightened to proper torque settings..

The end links are identical on all C6 models, so the 53# torque spec would also be the same. Torque wrenches are originally manufactured to fit in a +/-4% tolerance range and most are far more accurate. As a general rule, torque specs for fasteners are 80% of the yield strength. So the high limit is 66#. Since your torque wrench may have a deviation up to 4%, an initial setting of 63# would still be safe.
The spec is not a torque and turn to yield spec, so unless you have already passed the yield point previously, a 60# torque setting on a reused end link nut or bolt is perfectly fine.

However, 2k Cobra is correct that end links wear out and then make noise. The ball and socket design with the socket material being less dense than the ball eventually elongates. I consider end links to be consumable wear items that need to be replaced occasionally. The noise is the indicator they are toast.