Battery Issue?
 

I bought a new battery 2 years ago. Latley the car has been hard to start both cold and hot. When I go to start it is as if there is not cranking power. There is no vrroom when it fires either. Just a very slow crank and then into a puttering idle. After its running it runs perfect.

I think the battery is crap. It charges to 100 percent but it still lacks starting power. I bought it from autozone BTW and dont leave a tender on it in the winter. I just charge it periodically

Thoughts......2 months ago it fired with zero issues.

Charge the battery, take it to Autozone and have them test it. You will know immediately if the battery is the issue. They will test the battery for free as will most auto parts stores.

Can a battery thats 100% on the charger be bad?

There's a difference between a battery that reaches a 100% charge and one that can maintain the voltage under amperage draw. It can be breaking down under the stress of starting.

The problem could well be the battery but could also be a bad positive cable that draws excessive amps, corroded connections, loose connections or a lack of a solid ground. They can all act like you describe.

Its has to be the battery. Im going to swap it out this week. It did the same thing 3 years ago, and a new battery fixed the problem.

It just seems odd. Last night I charged it up to 100%, fired the car, and the when I rechecked the charge level it was about 90%. Prior to that after sitting for a week the battery lost 25% of its charge.

Is 3 years the normal life span for a battery in car that doesn't get driven all that often?

I am starting to wonder if my 383 requires a MSD ignition box.

Yes, batteries that sit for long periods without charging will not last their fully rated life span. When you get the new battery, invest in a Battery Tender trickle charger. I keep mine plugged into my battery 24-7. The battery Tender senses when the battery drops down from full charge, cycles on and charges the battery. I have their 3 amp unit and I've noticed that it only cycles on a few minutes per week even with my analog clock. It comes with a clean connector set up that hard wires onto the battery posts. You can even order a 25 foot extension cable. I've used the Battery Tenders on my motorcycles and boats for decades. If you are a COSTCO member you can order one on line for $39.95.

I would also be checking the battery cables, ALL connection points, positive and both negative cables.
if you still have original cables, it is a good chance they have internal corrosion, which adds resistance.
if you find white/green powder at any connections that's a problem.

I have seen a person swap a battery fix an issue only to blame the battery when a loose cable was the issue,

Some batteries do last longer than others, and I have a battery I would use to just test small lamps and stuff it would show 100% good charged yet wouldn't have turned over a starter.

Some batteries and their issues like playing games.

The problem with alot of "new" batteries is they are actually old batteries that have sat on a shelf deteriorating. Many of them are bad right out of the box.

All of the above info is correct. But, your battery can be in great shape and you can still have poor starting problems...if your battery cables (main power line, ground from battery to frame, and ground cable from frame to engine) are in poor condition or have corroded terminals.

Check your battery wire connections and look for internal wire corrosion inside the insulation at the ends. Fix any wiring problems then try again.

could be a week cell in the battery, what CCA is the battery? (cold crank amps)