Installed DieHard AGM Battery
 

Installed a Sears DieHard AGM battery today! Fits fine and has the required vent holes for the vent hose that is on the OEM battery! Yep AGM's can vent if overcharged and as with normal batteries it generates hydrogen. Prepared a PDF and quote a marine source warning that even AGM's must be vented!

As most shade tree mechanics there are often some tricks on the install. This has several! Had to check my 2014 Service Manual several times and as usual you sometimes get a clue but not an answer! To remove the large power block from the positive terminal, the Manual states: "Remove Clips!" No mention of where they are and looking around the confined area was no help nor was it obvious. Finally tried an approach with a screwdriver that worked! The PDF has many pics and one shows where to put the screwdriver!

This G48 size is Sears model number 50748. The OEM Delco conventional battery is model number 48PS. They both have recessed terminals needed to properly locate the power block. The CCA (Cold Cracking Amps) @ 0F for the Diehard AGM is 760 amps. The OEM Delco is 565.

Pricing was interesting. Received an email with a special discount price of $133 plus tax. Called the local store and it was $176 plus tax. The store could not match the price and told me to buy on the Net and pick it up there -which I did. Picked it up at the store in the afternoon!

The PDF with many pics of the install is: http://netwelding.com/Battery_Issues.pdf


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5c71848420.jpg


DieHard G48 AGM Has 760 Amps CCA (Cold Cracking Amps) @ 0F. Note pic From Ad Shows 700. The Delco OEM Battery is 565,

Great post! Many thanks.

Excellent information... thanks for posting. :thumbs:

RE Sears Diehard AGM
 

OP,
I was price comparison shopping a couple years ago, and decided on the Sears Diehard AGM too. I was also pleased to see that I could buy it at a further discount of about $35.00 by paying for it online, then going to pick it up @ the Sears Auto Center near my home with the confirmation number. As I recall, the price was very good versus the equivalent dealer brand and the Interstate brand.

This very interesting. I just checked here in CA. My battery has been a dog and now is saying to replace. Looks like its now $106 and 115 out the door. :) Thank you

The price on this DieHard is much lower than comparable batteries at AutoZone and Advance Auto. Just checked and their AGM that fits the C7 is close to $200.

I just ordered for the hell of it. Since I bought my car I have always felt the battery was a bit weak. Here is a screen shot of what I paid. :)

My battery has had a low voltage, ~12.4, since I have had my C7, which will be 3 years in October. It has always started the car even after 2 1/2 week vacations but thought I'd replace before winter. I do not use a charger. More difficult to replace than anticipated so would not want just anyone trying! Glad I did when I had the time and it was not dead! :lol:

AGM batteries like Optima (which won't fit because the top configuration will not accept the large power fuse block) and Odyessy may have more CCA power but the Diehard has significantly more than the OEM Delco. The CCA (Cold Cracking Amps) @ 0F for the Diehard AGM is 760 amps. The OEM conventional lead acid Delco is 565.

I was looking at one from AutoZone but that was $176 for about the same CCA as the Diehard. AutoZone has an Odyessy but it has only 723 CCA, weights more at 48 pounds and cost $249. Less CCA for more weight and money! After looking at the Diehard and OEM today the pic looks like the Odyessy should fit as it has the required recessed terminals. The hold down will fit its flat top but not sure if the power fuse block will snap in place to secure properly as it does on the OEM and the Diehard.

Nice writeup, thanks.

Nice homework! Be sure to use AGM charger if needed. They behave differently than a standard charger.

Thanks. Used my CTEK 3300 on AGM setting to fully charge the new battery. It was on about 20 hrs when I installed it and indicated a full charge.

Bought the CTEK 3300 when I first got my C7 to see if it just wasn't fully charging the battery and causing the a low voltage. It was no help and still read low when the surface charge was depleted. Probably a weak cell. But it has started the car fine for almost 3 years. I just didn't want to take a chance before this winter and was waiting for a sale on an AGM battery.

Had an Optima in my C6 and have a Yellow Top Optima in my Street Rod (which does stay on a charger.) However as I noted, the Optima top post configuration will not hold the large power block that connects to the positive terminal.

I had not used the CTEK charger on the C7 since that one time in 2013. It is a DD and although I don't use it every day, when I do it is typically a ~40/50 mile drive so it gets fully charged.

OP, thanks for the thread.
I picked up the same Die Hard battery about two years ago for my C5. That solved any battery issues I had with the C5. When I replace the battery on the C7 I too will go with a AGM, Die Hard.

Battery Replacement
 

Jerry,

Great write-up. :thumbs:

That's the most complete description I've seen and certainly one I've saved.

Thanks,

Rich

Jerry- I agree with you, it is alittle more involved then I anticipated as well. With my car down as I do my SC install I figured I might as well upgrade. Here is an interesting fact. While in the car I tried to charge it and the charger came back with a "replace battery" message. Last night after I pulled it out I put it on the bench to charge and it looks like it is fine. Damn car. LOL

Just an update on the DieHard performance. Drove the Vette yesterday (~50 miles round trip) to go to the store. Checked this morning (after the surface charge was depleted) and the battery, for the first time in ~3 years, read 12.85 volts!

The Delco, which I have not returned yet (they did not charge me a exchange fee but said I would return it and will when driving the wife's SUV into town) was still reading 12.47 volts sitting on the garage floor!

I noticed the dash voltmeter when driving finally was just below 13.5 volts, lower than it has ever read, it was usually ~14 volts. Assume the altenator control system was trying to get the weak cell(s) to fully charge, an unachievable task!

Total time to change the battery was just under an hour (including time to take pics for the PDF.) Expected I would have to index the windows as I did when replacing the battery in my C6 . Did not, they are fine. About the only thing it did not "remember" was the car was left in Sport, as always, so had to change from Touring where it started. Also had to reset the radio to play my SD card in shuffle mode when the car starts.

Interesting thread...Jerry, what's the significance of your findings? I'm not quite seeing what you're findings are. Was the Delco not taking/holding a charge?

My C7 battery has always read an OCV of ~12.4 volts from when I got it in October 2013, well under the 12.8 to 12.9 volts it should be. Had the dealer check the one time I was there responding to a GM notice to have the diff fluid level checked. The diff was fine and they said, as expected, the battery was OK. They did not remove it and run a load test etc, but expect they don't have the equipment. Also considering removing the battery is a PIA would expect if they knew that, they would not be eager to do it! Mine was the 1st C7 my local dealer had seen! They had just had a mechanic C7 certified when I went for the diff fluid check. I bought the car from a large dealer with a sizable allocation.

In fairness the car has started fine for ~3 years even after several 2 1/2 week vacations. I don't use a charger (although I have the equivalent of the GM charger I bought early on to see if that would help the voltage-it did not!) Probably a weak cell(s.)

Since it was ~3 years old and before it might fail this winter, decided for $133 sale, getting a better AGM battery was a prudent. Much better to replace when I had the time and NOT when it failed.

Jerry,

I'm guessing you're going to see similar resting voltages (around 12.4) on your DieHard in a few weeks or months. Many modern cars have "battery management software" that don't allow the alternator to constantly charge the battery while running, but only when it's depleted to a specified level. I suspect its both for fuel economy reasons (reducing the alternator's parasitic effect) and to protect all the electronic systems in today's vehicles.

I traded a Jaguar F-Type to purchase my C7 last June, and the Fs, all had AGM batteries, which showed the same 12.2-4 resting voltage levels. It was a constant topic of conversation on the F-Type forum. I did a lot of testing by driving around w/ a voltmeter connected, and the readings would only spike to 13v + sporadically, w/ occasional brief spikes to 14v or so.

Jaguars explanation was always that's the way the "battery management software" is intended to work. I'm guessing the C7 is similar, and your Delco was normal.

I went to test drive a C7 a month ago, it had been on the dealers floor, and the battery was dead.

I just wonder how many batteries get ruined on the dealers lot prior to purchase, these batteries are not the deep discharge types.

Did you get a car off the lot?

Great write-up Jerry. Saved the PDF file for future reference. :thumbs:

According to the 2014 Service Manual and most other battery charts 12.45 volts is only 65% charged at 75F. To be fully charged it must be a minimum of 12.75 volts. AGM's are usually even higher.

Since I have had this problem since new I asked forum folks to post their voltage. Most reported 12.8 to 12.9 volts. I check the wife's new SUV and it is 12.9 volts. I believe mine had a weak cell(s.) I'll be checking to be sure.

FWIW, brought my best digital Craftsman multimeter to the Battery Store and checked several batteries on their shelf against their calibrated Fluke meter. It was within 0.01 volts.

No, to get a September 2013 built C7 I ordered from the only dealer who would take an early order even before there was any pricing, Hendrick in Cary NC! Had a contract based on MSRP that nether knew what it would be! In fact I was #9 on their list. Would check with the salesman from time to time to be sure I was still #9! One time he said, "You'll be #9 unless Jeff Gordon decides he wants one, then you'll be number 10!"

I got mine only a few weeks after Rick Hendrick got the first C7 coupe built. He paid $1,100,000! It was at a Barrett Jackson Charity Auction. Great folks to buy from! Picked up my car the day after it came off the truck.

Bookmarked this bad-boy.

Nice work JerryU! Thank you for sharing.

Thanks for posting this info and for putting together the pdf.

Wow
What an ordeal just to change a battery. Thanks for the write up.

Thanks for the PDF, Jerry - it was helpful to me in preparing and actually doing my battery swap this week. I had bought a replacement battery several weeks ago for my '14 C7, anticipating the demise of the original battery still in it. I noticed slight hesitation in some recent starts so figured I should have a new battery ready to go. I bought the same battery you did and had it on the bench charging for when I was ready. I ordered a battery carrier at Autozone Sunday and, when I stopped to pick it up Tuesday, the starter hesitated when I went to leave the store to go home so figured I wouldn't wait any longer.

Battery - handles are very helpful in transport and installation.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...sc/DieHard.jpg

The carrier I picked up - made removal easier.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...%20carrier.jpg

The swap was pretty easy, although, I agree access and removal are a bit clumsy but I had no problem doing the swap. I removed most of the rear panels to ensure I didn't crack the main deck cover - I'd done it before so it came out quickly.

What I found was a positive terminal that was starting to corrode. My C7 is my dd so I've never had to charge the battery and haven't needed to remove it. The corrosion did not show until I removed the positive cable card and terminal.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...sc/Battery.jpg

New battery works perfectly and only one or two settings changed as I used a 9V battery device in the lighter socket to retain memory settings while the battery was out, although I do need to re-index the windows. :thumbs:

Thanks.

That battery carrier is much better that the simple post strap I bought. With the terminals on the end, the strap did not pull it straight up. On the first try it also slipped when I had it about 3 inches up! Finally lifted out of the "hole" and set it on the hatch floor. Lifted with two hands over the spoiler. Would not trust the strap to hold lifting it over the spoiler! :lol:

Anyone who thinks they will lift out with their hands, think again! No room for hands or fingers.

Does the plastic cover just pull off the positive terminal, or is their a tab that needs to be depressed to remove it?

To get the Power Board off the positive terminal, first discounted the negative terminal, then unbolt the power buss bar from the bar going to the car, then to remove the power board (with fuses) there are two clips to release.

Thanks Jerry, the plastic cover does it just pop off or are there clips holding it that need to be released?

It's insane what it requires to change a car battery nowadays...

Do you have a brand name and part number for the battery carrier? Thanks

Amazon has many, and several very similar to the one above. They're very cheap. The one above is branded "OEM Tools" and is on page 2 of the link below.

Does anyone sell an AGM battery that has a longer replacement time than the 36 months provided with the DieHard AGM? Our local Sears store closed and the battery is not shippable. Thanks.

Added: I am going to try KMart.

Not that I've found. The AC/Delco AGM version has about the same specs, price and warranty.

There are conventional wet batteries w/ longer warranties, but my understanding is that AGMs do last longer. I don't know why their warranties don't reflect that.

THX, Foosh!

I'm definitely going to need one then too. I could actually use it for my 2002 7.3 liter PSD engine compartment battery. :thumbs:

I have a friend with three Corvettes, all with AGM batteries, and he recently just had to replace all of them in a short period of time. According to him, the manufacturer has them designed where they all last about 3 years.

I went with the ACDelco Professional gold series battery with 42 month free replacement. I have taken one to the parts house that was over 3 years old and just told them it was not holding a full charge and they replaced it free, no questions asked.
When I changed my battery I found it was easier to lift it over the rear fender instead of trying to lift it over the spoiler, and was able to do it without a carrier. I also remove the whole side panel to get it out of the way, and completely removed the box on top of the battery.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a4d9b5fa07.jpg

Say something about this photo

It just pops off.

I'm reminded of a comment made by the Plant Manager at Johnson Controls battery plant in town when we had a tour. They assembled batteries and have long wide tubs of water where ~100+ batters sit almost up to the top as they are cooled while being charged. Then they go down an assembly line where there were over 20 brand labels being applied by workers!

They operate on a "just in time" basis with their customers. If AutoZone, Advanced Auto sells a particular model or Sears who was selling a Diehard, they put that label on and deliver a replacement! Some brands had different color case that started assembly in that colored case. The internals were the same.

Someone in our group asked what was different and he said "Often just the warranty! Some companies give a longer warranty and charge more!

Of interest, Johnson Controls bought Optima some years ago. They are not made at this plant but were in the packaging area and are assembled with the batteries they make for delivery to their customers. Battery plants are located around the US as shipping is a significant cost. Just who is selling a particular model is regional dependent. I saw the Diehard AGM I bought for the C7 with a different label at AutoZone.

Jerry,

Thanks for documenting your experience.

A quick general question on AGM batteries: any concerns about using one where they weren't originally specified? I have never used one but I am getting ready to order a new GMC Sierra diesel pickup and while looking through the supplemental manual for the diesel engine, which also covers the little diesel used in GM's midsize trucks, I saw that the midsize (Canyon, Colorado) with the small diesel come with an AGM battery and the manual warns not to use a regular battery charger with them since it should be limited to a maximum of 14.8 volts during the charge cycle. Any concerns about the standard vehicle electrical system allowing excessive charging voltage?

FWIW, in 18 months of almost daily driving my car, I've maybe seen 14.8v once or twice, and only very, very briefly. When alternator is charging, the normal highest readings are 14.5-14.7, which drops down to 12.8-12.9 when battery reaches full charge. I also see everything in between periodically

I monitor that almost continuously because I keep the summary display up on the right side of the DIC center screen, which provides a digital readout of multiple parameters (e.g. charging voltage, tire pressure OK, water and oil temp, etc.).

I put in an AGM battery a couple of weeks ago, and I'm seeing the same readings I saw w/ the OEM battery. In fact, I really didn't need to make the change, OEM battery was still healthy, but at 3.5 years, I figured I might as well be proactive.

Just an additional comment about AGM batteries.. We just bought a Malibu with auto start technology, and the manual does say to use ONLY AGM batteries, so it does appear that they are able to take more frequent starts and may even charge faster than conventional batteries.

Agree, I think they also maintain a charge longer when not in use.

My first Optima Red Top in my first C5 was on the charger constantly when not in use (which was infrequent) and lasted 9 years. My second Optima was a Red Top and bought about 5 years later, lasted less than two years with more frequent use in my other C5. My third Optima was a Yellow Top for my first C5 and lasted less than three years with infrequent use and on a charger constantly.

I couldn't find an Optima for the C7 but would not have bought one anyway due to the lack of performance I'd gotten in my last two. Hopefully, this new Die Hard will have decent life/reliability in my dd.

It's not the same Optima battery that performed well for many of us 10 or more years ago. The company was sold, no doubt to capitalize on the following they developed, but they get a lot of complaints these days, and no longer have a good reputation.

I have no experience with AGMs in cars, but I've used them for 10 years in my Harley, now on its fourth. The original Harley AGM (Deka) lasted 2½ years, the second and third (Deka unbranded, same battery) two years each, and the fourth has been on the bike for a bit over three years and is still working fine. It's a Chinese AGM that's a bit cheaper than the made-in-USA Deka. I tried it because I wasn't happy with the 2-yr. lifespan I was getting with the Dekas.

No issues with charging. Replaced my OEM C6 battery with an Optima AGM. Charging system is fine. No issues with my C7 for the ~7 months I had it before selling.

Where I never could get the original battery to read more than 12.4 volts (after the surface charge was depleted ~12 hours) the AGM read 12.9! I no doubt had a weak cell in the Delco. When charging, IF the charger has an AGM tape it can charge to a higher voltage. Some chargers have that setting but it's not critical.

My Street Rod has a 7 year old Optima Yellow Top AGM. It is always on a simple Schumacher charger and so far not issues! Does make me nervous as the sedan has electric doors and windows and the battery is inside! At car shows I leave a window open so I can get inside if I need a jump!

Changing out the Battery in a C7 Convertible
 

Hi All,

I changed out the battery in my 2014 Convertible, this afternoon and... I have done valve jobs that were easier than this! :ack:

Jerry U's article on changing out his coupe's battery was very helpful! :thumbs: After reading it and reviewing his pics and tips, I found nothing I didn't recognize.
http://netwelding.com/Battery_Issues.pdf

However, the convertible offers less room for working on and removing the battery than Jerry's coupe. The rear wheel cover can not be moved for additional room as he demonstrates in his article.

On my car, the fuse block over the positive terminal (picture on Page 4 of Jerry's article) had three smaller wires attached where his picture shows two. I recommend you unscrew those wires (8mm captured nuts) so the fuse block can be completely removed. The wires are numbered as is the fuse block so you won't mistake which terminal they go to. Bending the fuse block out of the way in the convertible didn't work for me and disconnecting the small wires and reconnecting them was easy. Also, the large red wire held on with the 13mm nut should be reconnected before the fuse block is reset in place. This will help to keep from cross threading it onto the stud.

I pulled the old battery out using two vice grips (one on each terminal, with rubber gloves, of course!) which worked really well. You just have to start lifting the right side up and out first to clear the fender well. Installing the new battery was pretty easy without tools, making sure the right side goes down and in first.

Jerry recommended the Diehard sizeG48, Model #50748 AGM battery. I'm a little concerned with Sears' financial future and found the exact same battery under the AutoCraft name, sold by Advance Auto Parts. Their part number is Platinum H6-AGM. It listed at $176.00 but, when I looked them up on the internet, they offered me an immediate 20% off. I didn't buy right away and went back to their site a few days later. They then offered me an immediate 25% off, which I went for! Core charge is $22.00, which they refunded when I brought back the old battery.

I also bought (from Amazon) an OBDII cable that plugs into a 12V source. The idea being that if you plug the cable in before you unhook your battery and remove it after the new battery is installed, you won't lose your settings. It did NOT work. Maybe it's faulty or maybe I did something incorrectly or maybe the C7 just doesn't lend itself to such possibilities but, my recommendation is... save your money.

Anyway, car is back together and every thing works perfectly. I could probably cut my time in half if I did it again... which I WON'T... ever! :smash:

I also took the fuse box and everything else around it off that I could just to make things easier... I had rather spend time removing things than to wrestle with them when trying to handle the battery.:ack: I found it easier to take the battery over the fender instead of over the bumper, but I almost had to stand the battery on end to get it out of the well.

Just chiming in on my experience with current Optima Yellow Top batteries. Installed one in a 2007 2 years ago. No problems so far, but removed in winter and placed on a battery tender. Still strong as I would expect. Installed one in a Jeep CJ7 4 years ago, we use as a plow vehicle. It sits all summer (May - October) in the Jeep, with no tender attached. Left the ignition on accidentally once and drained it dead the 1st year. It came back fine. It started the Jeep after this latest summer siesta, which took some time, as always (old gas maybe?). It seems to be doing fine. I read a lot of bad about the newer Optima's, but have not experience it yet.

Sears doesn't make batteries nor do most resellers! Saw the same battery as Sears at AutoZone. Our ASME section visited Johnson Controls in town who are one of the major battery suppliers. At the end of the production line was a station with over 20 brand labels that were put on depending on demand.

The operate a JIT system and can deliver one battery to a retailer, if requested.

FWIW, installed a Yellow Top Optima in my C6. It will not fit a C7 nor do they have a configuration that will. The C7 needs recessed terminals to fit the large power board on the positive terminal.

Also have a Yellow Top in my Street Rod. It will be 8 years old and runs fine but as I have electric doors, no door handles, only remote access and the battery is not accessible except from inside the car, I am planning on replacing it. The battery hold down is custom built for that model Optima battery.

I have recently checked with Jegs and Summit tech departments as I bought many products for my Street Rod through them. I have always gotten a straight story and good advice. One said no recent issues with Optima. The other said there were problems for a short time some years ago when production was moved to Mexico but he had not had any negative reports in recent years. I believe the problems that are still reported are old QC issues now resolved. Johnson Controls now owned Optima and is a first class company with excellent engineers. They have the skill to fix issues when necessary. I will buy a replacement Optima! Will probably buy it from Jegs or Summit.

There is another AGM option, but more expensive than the Sears battery, there is the Odyssey Performance Series, Part# 0752-2020, Model: 48-720. USA made battery with 99% pure lead content. Was a pain the the butt job on my Vert. Would have been easy if the Delco battery had had a handle. Have used Odyssey in my boats & Seadoo's, they last years if you keep them charged with a maintainer.

One small tip. You can make simple 'handles' out of nylon webbing. Tilt the battery a little and slip two nylon straps under. You can then carefully lift the battery up and out. I keep the straps in the rear cubby hole.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e61ec18583.jpg

Alternate source (for the lazy)
 

Sam's Club members can get a Duracell AGM (760 CCA) for $159.76 (plus tax) with free installation. Just had the same battery put in my wife's Enclave last week (in a similar size well). They said it wasn't the simplest install they had done but didn't charge me any thing. The Duracell looks like the Die Hard pictured above. Maybe they make the Sears battery.

I went thru these really quickly, so I apologize if someone said this: In the How To section at top of page it covers the removal/replacement of our batteries.

FWIW, we toured the Johnson Controls battery plant in our town. They are one of the largest manufactures of batteries in the country. At the end of the manufacturing line there were over 20 labels, Diehard and many others. The workers were placing labels on the various batteries. They deliver in a JIT (Just In Time) basis. If a Sears store, etc sells one type they deliver that one to replace it!

You don’t see a Johnson Controls battery, just all the other brands you find in stores!

PS: Reinforcing the last paragraph in my post #52 above: The problems with Optima Batteries is "Old News!" Johnson Controls bought Optima Batteries in ~2000. They moved the plant to Mexico and there were reports of QA problems. Both Jegs and Summit techs who I recently talked with said NO current problems and one said have not been for over 5 years! (Have a lot of respect for both of those folks as bought many products and gotten very good advice for my street rod!) I'm buying a replacement for the 8 year old Yellow Top in my Street Rod just as precaution, it's working fine! Note Optima WILL NOT FIT A C7!

Handles!!! why cant the OEM battery have handles!!

If Sears Automotive is still in business, then I'll be going with the Die-Hard AGM 760 CCA in my C7.

:thumbs: FWIW AMGs do last longer. I recently changed the Optima Yellow Top in my street rod after 10 years! In fairness it is always on a charger. That is a big help in extending life. In fact it was still working BUT as I have electric doors and the battery is inside the sedan a PIA if it fails!

Actually if in the garage I have a way to access the positive wire to the driver's door solenoid. Have to reach under and grab the taped end of a wire I spliced to the one going to the solenoid from the PC board that controls doors and windows with a remote. Then use jumpers from that wire end and frame. However if at a show it would be a PIA! Attended the first Car Show since the install this past Saturday.

So, I have been daily driving my C7 since I installed this DieHard a little over a year ago I have left it in the garage without driving it for over a week at a time a couple of times and it's always started on the first try. Except last week.

I had to wait for a replacement meth pump for a week and left the car sitting during that week. When I tried to start it - nothing. Took a full day to recharge.

Bummer.

:lurk:

:cool:

If the die hard goes belly up and SEARS is out of business where do you take the bad battery?

^^^
Only a few folks make batteries! Toured the Johnson Controls battery plant in town a few years ago. At the end of the line folks put on one of over 20 labels! One was DieHard. When I bought my AMG DieHard for my 2014 Z51 I also found the same battery under their on name by Advanced Auto and AutoZone in town. Sears was having a sale so bought it. Sold the 2014 and bought a Grand Sport. I'd buy an AGM battery from another in town for it when needed! Just look at the specs.

My "guess" is even if they go bankrupt they have some valuable trade names someone would buy, i.e. Craftsman, Diehard etc

Black & Decker purchased Craftsman last year.

^^^
Thanks- did not know it was sold. Knew someone would pick it up!

In my prior life, when our welding business became a leveraged buyout from a multinational corporation, as marketing VP I was responsible for protecting our ~25 Trademarks that came with the company. Since the business had to be sold in 5 years (we sold it for double the purchase price in 4) trademarks like Heliarc, Prest-O-Lite, Oxweld, Purox, Plasmarc, MigMaster, Digipulse, Ductling CNC Plasma cutter etc. were valuable assets for the new owner!

Great info. Excellent posting. Thanks!

They'll have a successor to service our Die-Hards, without a doubt someone will own the name.

The CTEKs all say, "Charges 12-volt lead-acid batteries (Wet, MF, Gel, AGM and Ca)". It easily recharged my DieHard.

AMG batteries are lead acid! No issues charging the AMG Diehard in my C7. Also use a standard lower cost "lead acid" battery charger for my old Optima Yellow Top AMG in it's 10 year life!

You can add the Walmart EverStart Platinum AGM H6 battery to the list of batteries
 

My battery was approaching 4 years old and sometimes cranking slow before starting. It checked out good but decided to replace it anyway. The Walmart EverStart Platinum AGM H6 was listed for the C7. It looks the same and has the same capacity ratings as the ACDelco/DieHard/Advanced Auto/Duralast/Super Start/Duracell/Exide AGM batteries. My guess is they are all made by Exide. Hopefully Walmart spec'd it out good.
Perfect fit right down to the vent tube (don't know why an AGM battery needs a vent tube - port may go nowhere). Even the positive terminal temporary plastic protector fit on my old battery.

I checked that out as well as I have used an Optima in my C6 and have an Optima Yellow Top in my Street Rod and no vent. However the Marine industry requires a vent, AMG or not! This is why: When the battery is charged it like other batteries generates hydrogen. In the AMG it is usually absorbed BUT if charged excessively the hydrogen can build pressure. There is a bursting disk and if the pressure is high enough hydrogen can be released. Hence the vent.

:lurk: I know this thread started out in '16, but I'm happy it got renewed as I didn't see it the first time out. Gotta bookmark this, one never knows. Thank you Jerry for taking the time to write this up. You've helped a lot of members.

Jim

FWIW, the NAPA 7548 battery is pretty much a dead ringer for the original AC Delco battery. It has vent pipe holes on both sides, and it has handles, which the original does not.

It got mine for the same price as the cheapest Group 48 DEKA battery I saw advertised on eBay, using the AAA discount at NAPA.

My 2014 C7 was starting to worry me -- it would always start well in my garage, but warm (re-)starts felt weak. This was the original battery, with around 20,000 miles on it and it never had a battery tender attached. So, I feel that it held up pretty well, but it was time for a new one.

R&R was relatively straightforward, though the place where it lives is tight. I ended up undoing all six 10mm & 13mm nuts that did the electrical contacts, removed the fuse holder, then undid the bracket nuts (10mm), disconnected the vent pipe (on the RR fender side), tilted the battery sideways, and pulled it out. Putting the new battery in was easier, as it has handles.

The first time I tried to start the car, there was a brief contact and then dead. Second time, fired right up, but the temperature sensor on the big display was not yet working. Third time, everything back to normal. I suspect this is what happens when you disconnect the battery.

Here's a pic of the new (on the left) and old (on the right) batteries.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cad0cf6142.jpg
NAPA 7548 replacement Group 48 battery on the left, original AC Delco battery on the right.