CCB pads delaminated
 

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I had a track night Wednesday night. Tons of fun! Brakes pedal travel felt soft going into corner#14, so I came in from my last session. Took a picture of my pads yesterday afternoon, and the pad is crumbling and separating from the back plate of the pad. I am hopefully posting a pic. I am calling my dealer today. I watched my PDR video, and the braking bars, the red ones in the upper right part of the display, rarely got to the 3rd bar. This has to be a defect from the manufacturing process.

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Yeah that ain't right.

This is definitely a defect in the pad. I hope you can get it replaced under warranty though.
Good luck!

Had you properly burnished them - street and track??:confused2:

Just curious, because burnished or not I wouldn't think that should happen!

But if they were burnished then that's definitely a problem, and I'd like to hear if the dealer has any ideas about what is going on there.

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Post about it over in this thread. There are some really smart brake guys there.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...questions.html

I tend to agree that this was just a defect in the pad. Is it just on one wheel? Is in outside and inside pad?

FYI- there is a issue with the accuracy of the PDR data in regards to braking forces. so even though you are hammered down on the binders, it will only show 3 or so bars at times.

That isn't entirely true. Yes, it will feel like you are really on the pedal, but if you brake hard enough you'll get it to register pretty high. Watch the video below as I go from 158-161 mph down to 60 entering turn 10a at Road Atlanta. The pedal was not to the floor but was definitely being pressed pretty hard. Even turn 6 at 45 seconds is a pretty heavy braking zone, as indicated on the PDR.

Edit - I tried to start the video at the 1:15 mark but apparently the forum does not recognize the url. Skip ahead to see what I am referring to above.

Agreed with comments above, not normal regarding the pad issue though. Hopefully the dealer will take care of you as pads are relatively expensive.

Hmmm. Wonder if it's 2015 specific only or if it gets fixed on the update (I haven't updated mine). My bars don't go past 3 on track.

I don't recall seeing that on the ZR1, but we did have the pad start to come apart on the Z07 car during testing to the point it had moved locations on the backing plate.

We saw this on the outside pad, driver side.

Doesn't look like yours got quite that hot though.

Agreed. Towards the end of my first set of front CCB pads, on review of PDR, the braking force indicator bar will only show three bars. Shouldn't it show properly thru the entire life of the pad?

If you drive the CCBs hard funny things will happen to the pads including uneven wear, severe cracking, and material crumbling. If you want to keep as much life in your rotors as you can replace them before you get to the wear sensor. The CCB rotor deflects heat into the caliper through the pad. Many of my pads looked like that but held up fine for about 2/3 of the way then fell apart quickly.

I switched to iron and the pad is wearing evenly without any cracking or falling apart. It's nice to have the rotor do some of the work as a heatsink.

Thank you all. It is the driver"s side outside pas, as far as i know now. That were burnished for the track. I have an appointment at the dealer on wednesday of next week. I appreciate the input from everyone.

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That's what the caliper looked like...I'll have to see if I took pics of the pads themselves.

That looks like a lot more heat than I generated. I am going with a race compounded pad set up front, rears look fine, as expected. I'm also going to swap out the OEM fluid for better stuff as well. Thank you all for you assistance!

Holy Keerap!!! Swapping in a good DOT 4 brake fluid should be one of the very first track prep things to do!!! The OE DOT 3 just is not satisfactory for running on the track!!:nono:

And, of course the Owner's Manual does tell you to replace your engine oil with 15w50.

And, if you've still got the alignment that was done at the factory, you really need to get it checked - they can be rather, uh..., well - within the wide specs, but not really what you want for tracking the car.

And.....well there's a bunch of other stuff to do to track prep the car, but flushing in a good DOT 4 should be up toward the top of the list!

Thanks for the info about your pads, and let us know what the dealer says and especially if they will warranty them for you.

BTW - what "race compounded pad" do you have in mind??:confused2: The stock pads have a Textar compound up front, and the rears are a Pagid compound. There's been some mention here on the forum about a different Pagid compound for the fronts, but I'm not convinced it's really too much different than the OE pads. There really aren't many options for these brakes.

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OEM fluid? You're lucky that you didn't wreck. During pad break-in it overheated really really quickly for me. I changed it out asap. If you felt any soft pedal it's because it boiled.

I doubt you can damage the pads with the stock fluid. My guess is that your pads are fine. During break in that silver coloring develops just off the pedal backing. It looks like it's falling off but I bet it's fine. Rears will look better because they're not burnished properly. To burnish the rears properly the fronts have to be nearly on fire. I kid you not.

Carbotech XP12 most likely. I am also thinking LG Motorsports brake cooling ducts to help as well, but not immediately.

I'm not sure why you think you might have a cooling problem. With OE DOT 3 fluid you shouldn't have been getting things very hot - if so you wouldn't have had any braking capability at all when the fluid boiled.

I loved the XP12/XP10 combo on the cast iron brakes on my C6 Z06 - they're are great compounds.

I have seen them advertised by a forum vendor for the carbon ceramic rotors on the C7 Z06/Z07, but I haven't seen any good testimonials from users.

I have only run my C7 Z06/Z07 at one track event, but I've run my ZR1 at many. The ZR1 OE pads are essentially the exact same pads as the OE C7 Z07 pads - the compounds are the same, the fronts are exactly the same, and the only thing different in the rears is that the ZR1 pads are beveled on the fronts and rears of the pad.

On the many track events I've run with the ZR1 I've never had any kind of pad problem - no crumbling, no fading, no nothing but excellent stopping!! Same thing with the one event I've run so far with the C7 - the OE pads are great!

I've run about 4 sets of pads, all OE, on the ZR1. I always do the street burnishing procedure exactly as the manual explains it. I haven't always been able to do the track bedding exactly like specified in the manual, but haven't had any problems with those pads either.

Same with the C7 - I street burnished, but did a pretty close track burnishing procedure at its first and only track event. Being it was the first event for me in the new car, I was taking it pretty easy for the first couple sessions, so the pads got somewhat of a track burnishing done to them.

If I were doing W2W racing I might investigate some other pad compounds to see if they give me a tenth here and a tenth there, but my experience in the ZR1, and the one outing so far in the C7, I find I get all the braking I need from the OE pads. The ZR1 does 185 mph across the s/f line at Daytona and brakes down really well for about 60 around T1 into the infield. Both cars do about 155 up the back straight at VIR and the brakes haul the car down really well to go down the Roller Coaster.

Bottom line - you can try the Xp12's up front on your car, but Adam (the vendor here on the forum) says not to use them for everyday street driving. The OE pads are great for track or street. I just do HPDE's and I'm not looking every tenth of a second I can get so I can I can score a podium at every event or get a better pro driving contract, so I find the OE pads are excellent for my HPDE use.

Just MHO, your mileage may vary!!:steering:

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Update and confession. I finally got a chance to pull off my track wheels today. The pads are fine. I am new to these CCB systems and components. They definitely look different than the pads did after only street use, but they are functioning as they are designed. I think I got a little too over anxious. My soft pedal feel was from running OEM DOT3 fluid. Another newbie mistake. I ordered a power brake bleeder and will change to DOT4. Amid, a CarboTech representative was super helpful, friendly, and informative. I will be definitely going with Adam's parts and advice when I replace my pads. Thank you all for the help, and especially Adam for his expertise and knowledge.

I've used Carbotech's on my other car and am a big fan for iron rotor vehicles, but use caution on the Carbon Ceramics. I know Adam has posted that they have a number of people using them with CCBs, but I have only see one person post on here, Bill I think... He seemed to believe the carbotechs, even in an XP10, were pretty aggressive on the rotor leading to premature wear.

If you really want to put on a decent track pad, you should look at getting a set of Pagid RSC-1 or RSC-2s. These are actually designed for carbon ceramic rotors and are the recommended pad by Pagid, the OEM pad manufacturer.