Low coolant, overheating, reduce power
 

I was out running around today when I go into reduce power mode and check engine light come on, low coolant, overheating start flashing, temp 278, change engine oil flashing. Call AAA had it tow home, change the oil since it about time, fill her up with coolant checked it for leaks none not even a smell, temp started to rise again and low coolant message came back on. That where I'm at any suggestions. 2007- 97,000

Bat.

Stuck thermostat, collapsed or blocked hose, failed water pump. How much coolant it took the first time? Any antifreeze in the engine oil, steam coming out if your tailpipes or bubbles rising to surface on your coolant thank? Later indicates head gasket problems.

The coolant was low not completely empty no steam from tailpipes, no bubbles rising in tank.

like he said, stuck thermostat. you let it go all the way to 278? do you even look at the dash?

If it is a Auto check the left rad tank for a crack (Common Problem) happened on my 08 4 months ago, had a new rad installed.

Same with my '07 a month ago. Pinhole leak in the driver's side rad tank that put out a fine spray and the coolant level dropped pretty quickly.

Ok, again, how much coolant did you fill it up with. A cup? Or a gallon? Not completely empty means nothing. I am going somewhere with this depending on your answer.

If it got to 278 it would be steaming...50/50 is only good up to 265.

A straight forward answer is more valuable than an answer you are holding onto.

Just saying!

:shrug:

No it is not. Because my answer depends on his reply and without that i would be guessing. It seems like the op does not want to reply to it although i now asked the same question twice. And without the hard facts he cannot be helped, everyone would be guessing. Honestly i like to also help but i am not inclined sit here and write a long missive about every possible scenario here, i have better things to do.

Verify the fan functions. The DIC warning comes on at 265*, so you may have missed it and triggered more warnings.

Thanks everyone for the response but i was not able to get back to my computer until now, gs flyer to answer your question it took about 1/2 gal to fill it back up but like i said didnt have time to work on it last night, about to check out the suggestions now.
Bat.

Than you for that. That is a lot and probably needs more that is why the low coolant light came back again after you topped it off. The procedure isn't to top it off but pour it in very slowly so that air does not get trapped in the system. Than start the car and run it without the cap on. Once it gets to thermostat temp, it will open and suck up the fluid in the reservoir. Than you again fill it slowly until the reservoir fills to the mark. Than put the cap back on, rev it up to 2000 rpm for a minute to burp the air. After it cools of check level again.

I do not think your thermostat is sticking, and with above procedure you will also confirm that, it will open at 180f and empty the reservoir. You have a serious leak somewhere. The best is to take it to place you trust, let them do a pressure test on a lift. It probably will not hold pressure but while pressure is being applied they can check all possible locations for a leak that you have. Last but not least, never let your temps get to 278, anything above 250 you are getting into head warping territory and that is a 3k repair.

The last scenario is that the coolant was never checked in a very long time, for years snd got low. Hope it is a simple solution.

I took off the cover over the radiator to check for leaks around the hoses and rad, and found the leak, there is a tee on the tank hose that was was leaking, so off to the auto parts, gonna change out the thermostat while I'm at it can't hurt.

After an overtemp episode like that, put your car up on a lift and inspect the fan wiring. There's a connector on the passenger side on the engine side of the radiator shroud that you should carefully inspect the insulation -- both on the connector and on the wires leading to it. In overtemp situations that insulation tends to melt and pull back from the connector. This can quickly lead to shorts inside the connector. If you see evidence of insulation melt, the best fix is to cut out the connector and spice the wiring. The two thicker red and black wires need to be spliced in a side-by-side fashion and wrapped with waterproof insulating tape. The thin red wire needs to be in-line butt spliced, then also wrapped.

Carefully check the fan control module and its wiring too. Too much heat can kill the module. It's easy to replace, but not cheap.

If it's the 3/8"x3/8"x1/4" tee, there have been threads that show them being replaced with an easily available brass part.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-failure.html

:iagree::iagree: Replace it with a quality piece...brass.:thumbs:

Go to Ace hardware and they will fix you up with brass fitting...

The thread you reference states the "T" is 1/2 x 1/2 x 3/8. Is that correct or are you talking about a different part?

Not sure if the "T" just breaks normally, with age, or with older coolant, but this is the time to change all your coolant, not just a refill. I'll assume you knew that from it being an '07, more than five years old and at/about 100K miles. Good luck with the repairs. :cheers: