Loud clicking noise from wheels when turning
 

I'm experiencing loud ticking/clicking noises from the right side wheels when turning in my 2015 Z06. Car has <5K miles. At first, the noise came only with sharper turns at slower speeds. Took it in a few weeks ago and the noise went away for a day or two. Then came back and is now present both during slower speed and higher speed turns. Any advice or information from others who have experienced this ticking/clicking noise? To be clear, this is very different from the tire chatter noise -- it's a loud ticking/clicking sound. Thanks!

There is a TSB for that issue and it requires the wheels to be removed and the mating area between the wheel and hub to be cleaned thoroughly. It will make the noise go away for a while and then you will likely have to clean the area again.


#PI1498B: Clicking Noise from Front and/or Rear Wheels - (Aug 23, 2016)
Subject: Clicking Noise from Front and/or Rear Wheels

Models: 2014-2017 Chevrolet Corvette
2016-2017 Chevrolet Camaro

Attention: This PI also applies to any of the above models that may be Export from North America vehicles.

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This PI has been revised to add the Camaro model and the 2017 Model Year. Please discard PI1498A.


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Condition/Concern
Some customers may comment on a clicking noise emanating from either the front or rear wheels location. This condition may be more predominate at low speeds (10-20 mph or 16-32 km/h) during full wheel lock turns on dry clean pavement. The clicking noise is generally noted as approximately 1 to 4 clicks per wheel revolution.

This may be caused by interaction between the wheel mounting face and the wheel mounting surface on the brake rotor.

Recommendation/Instructions
Important: Do NOT replace the wheels or brake rotors for this condition.

If you encounter a vehicle with the above concern, follow the procedure below.

 1. Remove all four of the wheels. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in SI.
 2. Clean all four of the wheels mounting surface as follows.
◦Using a clean cloth dampened with approved brake cleaner (ex. Part number 19287401 (U.S.), 88901247 (Canada)), wipe the mounting surface of the wheel(s) removing any residual grey or black material that has accumulated on the wheel mounting surface.
Note: All cleaning must be done by hand. Do NOT use pneumatic or power tools.

 3. Clean the wheel mounting surface of the brake rotors, or sometimes referred to as the brake rotor top hats, as follows.
◦Using a clean cloth dampened with approved brake cleaner (ex. Part number 19287401 (U.S.), 88901247 (Canada)) wipe the wheels mounting surface of the rotor (brake rotor top hat) removing any residual grey or black material that has accumulated on the rotors.
Note: During the cleaning process, be sure to clean the rotor near the wheel pilot at the center of the rotor.

Note: All cleaning must be done by hand. Do NOT use pneumatic or power tools.

 4. Reinstall all four of the wheels using the original wheel nuts and torque specifications. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in SI.
•Corvette 140 Y (103 lb ft)
•Camaro 190 Y (140 lb ft)
Important: Be sure wheels and rotors are thoroughly dry prior to installation.

Thanks for the reply! Are there no fixes to have the noise permanently go away? Seeing as how the noise subsided for approximately one day after I last brought it in for service, this seems to suggest I'll constantly need to be bringing it in to the dealer (unless they didn't clean it properly the first time). Any sense for how widespread this issue is?

I'm glad its not me.. I thought I was hearing things.. NOT glad about having to dismount and clean wheels..

140 ft lbs on Camaro wheels! Now that requires a cheater bar to get off. I wonder how many Camaro owners can do that with the built in jack equipment in their car at midnight on a rainy night in Ga when they have a flat tire?

I have the ticking noise too. Took the front wheels off, cleaned them and rotor surfaces really well. Worked great for a month and then it came back. It sure is annoying. Sorry, wish I could help.

mine did it too (lug nuts weren't very tight to begin with)and after I removed one wheel and found it to be clean I just torqued the hell out of all lugs and it hasn't come back. Going on 8mo the now and still ok.

Had the clicking noise in my 2016, turned out there was a recall.. brought it into Chevy and they fixed it but I can't remember what the fix was....call Chevy.

This is a very common problem on most high performance sports cars. The fix is very, very simple! It almost always comes from the front brakes..not rear.

Pull the front brake pads out (very simple). Take super thick axle grease and spread a thin layer on the back of your brake pad. If the pad has "anti-squeak" shims, spread grease on both sides of it. The noise comes from the back of the pad rubbing against the caliper pressure point (metal to metal) under very high stress conditions. The rotors "float" so they shift a tiny bit when the brakes are applied. The grease eliminates the "clicking" noise this creates. Yes, the clicking noise as well as squeaks.

Do not be concerned about grease getting on your pads. It doesn't happen. Use a thick grease and thin layer.

I have done this on my Expedition, C6, Ferrari 360 and Lambo Gallardo all with 100% success!

Just started experiencing this and it has been driving me crazy! Will try these methods this week.

Get the same when turning since the car was new. Had the same issue with CTSV

Happened to me too, nothing like your nice pretty car sounding like a total P.O.S. while in a parking lot...

Put a small, VERY SMALL, amount of never seize on the metal hub of the bearing housing and right where it meets the rotor face, NOT all over the face of the rotor. Do not get it on the wheel studs. Just wipe a little on with you finger. I had ticking like crazy. Not anymore.

The issue you are referring is common on my Huracan too. The issue that the OP is describing is a different issue not due to the brake pads. Just cleaning the rotors as the TSB says will help for a very short time but the problem will return.

My '08 did this like crazy. Sometimes re-torquing wheels work but normally required removal and cleaning the wheel to rotor mating surface.

Any chance you are using a wheel cleaner that could be aggravating the issue because it gets down into the mating interface?

I've had the click since day 1. Taken it in twice for the tsb cleaning...each time it lasts 1 day.
Now every time someone asks why it clicks like that when I turn, I say...cuz it's a f'n race car, that's why! lol
:rock:

I actually just losen all lugs and re torque to 105 ft-lbs:hide: and it lasts for a few months.....dont even have to remove the wheels:D

Below is a GM TSB for 2nd generation CTS-V wheel click issues. I had this procedure performed on our 2013 CTS-V and the dreaded clicking is gone and no need for periodic retorques. However, I did have to buy a 1/2" digital torque wrench...


This bulletin applies to 2009-2013 Cadillac CTS-V models built prior to VIN breakpoint D0106083. A clicking noise may be heard from the front wheels. This condition is noticed at low speed during full wheel lock turns on dry clean pavement. The clicking noise is generally noted as approximately one to four clicks per wheel revolution.

The CTS-V has lightweight high performance front rotors with an aluminum center. The clicking sound is caused by interaction between the wheel mounting face and wheel mounting surface on the brake rotor caused by the aluminum-to-aluminum interface. With properly mounted wheels, and with the wheel nuts torqued to specification, the clicking noise is not a safety issue.

Do not replace the front wheel or brake rotor for the clicking condition. The new brake rotors that were previously advised to be installed for this condition should no longer be installed. The recommended procedure is to now clean the wheels and rotor top hats as well as to replace all wheel nuts.

1. Remove the front wheels.

2. Clean the wheels as follows:

a. Use a clean cloth dampened with GM Brake Parts Cleaner P/N 19287400 or equivalent.

b. Wipe the mounting surface of the wheel to remove any residual grey or black material that has accumulated on the wheel mounting surface. Be careful not to use the Brake Cleaner on the painted or clear coated wheel surfaces. It is also helpful to use a Scotch-Brite cleaning pad to aid in cleaning. Note: DO NOT use scotch pads (Roloc disc) on the aluminum material. All cleaning MUST be done by hand. DO NOT use any air or power tools.

c. Clean the rotor hat with a cloth dampened with brake cleaner, removing any grey or black residue. During the cleaning process be sure to clean the rotor near the wheel pilot at the center of the rotor. Using a hand-held Scotch-Brite pad will aid in cleaning. Do not use any air or power tool for cleaning. Be sure to thoroughly dry the wheel and rotor hat.

3. Reinstall the wheels using replacement wheel nuts P/N 9598179 (quantity 20 for all four wheels). These nuts can be identified with a blue color on the conical surface of the nuts. Torque all wheel nuts to 110 ft.-lbs. Note: If the customer has installed a locking nut kit, a “blue cone” replacement locking nut kit is available as P/N 19259109.

2017 gs
 

my 2017 GS is doing the same thing when I turn right or left it's been doing it since new? What's the fix cause my dealership is pathetic the guy couldn't even drive my car back into the shop stalled out twice.....I'd hate to have to go back to Hendricks chevy but it's my only option

see above posted by richierichzo6

the wheels need to come off and the surface that touches the rotors needs to be cleaned, as well as the rotor hat. I was going to pull the wheels and do it myself but the car is getting serviced right now so might as well have chevy do it.