Ramps vs lift
 

Hi All;

I don't have the option to install a two or four-post lift in my current garage setup. I am considering the system below as an alternative for small jobs like detailing, oil changes, etc (not tranny pulls or things of that sort). Has anyone had experience with this modular system?

https://raceramps.com/car-ramps/gara...l-length-lift/

I was looking at the same ones and then decided to go with Quick jacks considering not much price difference.

don't have the pit stop setup race ramps just the service setup, great product, light weight, durable, easy to store.

I have the E-Z car lift. Just used it yesterday, works very well and lets the wheels hang. Great for bleeding brakes and you can run a creeper under the whole thing. About the same cost.

Thanks, Chris

Race ramps are a pain to store and you have to walk a tightrope getting the car on them. And definitely don't drive OVER them...did that once with a different car since getting a manual up the ramps but not beyond them is tricky without killing your clutch.

Quikjacks are much easier to use.

I have used Race Ramps, but not the full length system, for several years without any issues. Great for low profile cars, however, if I decide to go with a full lift system, then I would probably go with a Quick Jack set-up just for space saving reasons alone, and it's little cheaper.

Thanks guys. Great info - much appreciated!

I have (2) ProPark 9 XL's and a set of race ramps to get my cars up on the lifts. I have also driven my car up onto a full race ramp setup to have work done underneath.

Both are excellent solutions and have each their own pet peeves, but full lifts offer the possibility of storing 2 cars rather than 1, which for me, was critical.

Awfully expensive for some pieces of plastic.
Would've expected being something like 5X the cost of Rhino Ramps, not 40X

Just get yourself a QUICKJACK 5000. Best investment I ever made. Here is my C6 Z06 up on the lift this weekend. I'm installing DRM valved Bilstein shocks, spindle ducts, brakes, tow hooks and some other things. Use it on my C7 Z06 also. Works like a charm.https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cd8f6f8480.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...357edd8182.jpg

I have quick jack also. With the race ramps you cant do any brake work or remove the wheels so not very useful

You could also go with a mid rise scissors lift that you park the car over when you aren't using the lift. Most of the ones on the market have the advantage that they are movable so you can relocate them if required. They are heavy and it takes some effort to move them but they do move. They will let you do work around the perimeter of the car and any fluid changes you want to do.

A MaxJax will let you do all of that and give you room to work under the middle of the car.

Both will let you work in a garage with a 9 to 10 ft ceiling. At prices varying between $1500 and $2000 they are a great asset and far superior to ramps.

Bill

Most if not all block off a portion of the center of the car, so tranny or rear end fluid changes may be an issue.
The Quickjack above does not.

A simple method to reduce the possibility of over shooting ramps (any brand) is to place a wheel chock in the path of the rear tire. It has to be placed the distance of the wheelbase behind the stop on the ramp platform.

Maybe its just me and maybe it is unfounded, but I would not feel safe under that.

Thanks again guys; lot of good arguments for Quick Lift. I checked out the website and a few related links, and I've read only good things. The video on their site is impressive at it relates to safety and what it would seemingly take to overload this thing.

For the vast majority of the work a Quick Jack really isn't any better. I agree it is open in the center but that doesn't mean it is all that beneficial. I had a mid rise scissors lift for 9 years I used it to change all of the fluids front and rear, brakes, shocks, springs, tires, tie rods and hubs but never had a need to pull the exhaust or the torque tube.

When the lift was all the way up it was easy to scoot around under the car with a roller seat and get to just about anything except the very center.

When I moved I switched to a Max Jax because I was under the mistaken impression getting to the center of the car was a good idea. Have used the lift for 3 years and haven't used it once to get to anything in the center of two different Corvettes. I can tell you one thing the center of the car is a lot more accessible when it is 4 ft in the air Vs 2 ft. If you do need to work in that area it is a lot better than the Quick Jack in a garage. The quick jack is nice at the track if you have the room to take it along.

I probably would have been better off staying with a scissors lift when I moved. At least it wouldn't take up any room when not being used as it is under the car. I can store the Max Jax posts and lift bars in a corner but I can't use the corner for anything else. In a garage where space is at a premium you need to plan everything before purchasing and residential two car garages have severe space limitations.

Bill

Ez Car Lift works great and I use it all the time. You can park over the top of it so it doesn't take up any room in your garage. Also it gives you almost full access to the underside of the car. Really a great product.

I hear you. I thought the same when I looked at pictures before I purchased it. Few things to note:

- I am not sure if you know this, but there are two full sections of the lift. In the picture, you can't see the section holding up the other side of the car.

- The unit has locking bars on each section. When engaged, the hydraulics are no longer being used to support the car. In fact, you can unplug the entire unit and disconnect the hoses if you really wanted.

- The unit is rated to 5000lbs

- It looks and is far more sturdier in person than pictures show

- I am very, very concerned about safety under my car. The last thing I want is to kill myself under my Corvette. I used to spend alot of time manipulating jack stands and jacks with back-ups and even back-ups to my back-ups prior to getting this lift. I would never go under a car I did not feel safe under. Not ever.

- I conducted a few non-scientific tests. I do not endorse one tries this, but I did because I simply had to know: With the wheels on the car, I attempted to push the car off the lift. I tried from both sides, and from the front and rear. I was fully prepared for the car to fall off the lift and cause damage. The car was rock solid on the lift and would not budge, and I pushed very hard. The lift did not shift nor even move. I could not push it off. I then jacked the car up on one side completely off of one side of the lift, thereby transferring weight to the remaining side of the lift. I wanted to see if I could reach a breaking point. No matter how high I jacked the car on one side, the QUICKJACK side that was taking the weight did not budge, nor give, nor creak, nor anything. I don't know how much weight was transferred, but the car was significantly higher on the jacking side.

For me, it is far, far safer than the alternative of jack stands and jacks. Also, if I really feel like it I can still back it up with those things. In fact, I was doing so in one of my pictures. Not because I didn't feel safe, but just because I could.

Did you get the BL-5000SLX Quick Jack model? Thanks in advance.

So let me get this straight...you have the AW C7 Z06 I want AND the LeMans Blue C6 Z06 I want :willy:

What are you going to post next? A black 1990 ZR-1 and 2002 Electron Blue Z06?:smash:

It's an '03. EB is my favorite color of all time. I called her Dory.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1b7e660050.jpg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...bbf2dca977.jpg



https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...32c71e9f04.jpg



And Marie below, in all her glory: :cheers: Poor girl is all torn apart right now, but getting some much needed love. Neglected her a bit when I bought the C7. I love her the most, I think.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ec4e0f17ac.jpg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...90b2be7240.jpg

How much did these run you? This would be great I assume for winter, and getting the tires off the ground...I notice you are right beside an outside wall in your garage. Is it simply a matter of aligning it on the ground before you drive in, or do you squeeze in between the outside wall and your car to position the quick jack?

They cost about $1800 in Canada from BC.

$1265 shipped with the Corvette Forum discount.

I have about 3 feet of space on the other side, you just can't see it from the pics.

There are two ways to line it up before pulling in.

1) Have each lift section NOT under the car, but to the side. Then you drive in, and push each section underneath.

2) Have each lift section under the car. YOU DO NOT DRIVE ON TOP OF THEM, but rather over them. That is, the tires are NOT to DRIVE ON the lift itself. So the lift pieces are under the car near the middle and you drive over them but not on them, then you pull each lift under the lifting points.

There are two handy bars that they give you that can be used to quickly attach to the sections and can pull or push the lift into position once the car is situated.

Years ago before I had a full lift I had this BendPak low-rise lift in my shop. I found it great for most everything, and it looks substantially stronger than the ones in this thread.

I agree! I was skeptical until I tried the Quick Jack now I feel much safer using the it vs jack stands

Lol well damn I was off a year on the Electron Blue :thumbs:
Beautiful collection you have there, I hope to join the party next year!

Interesting, I thought they were more expensive

I could be wrong, but I think Bendpak bought QuickJack

That mickey mouse quick jack is highly dangerous and even a scam. Stay with Ramps!

:iagree:
I can only add that when I bought mine at Carlisle and after talking to the salesman I decided on the 7000 to allow me to also lift my 1/2 ton 4X4 for a few bucks more.

Care to elaborate?

Well one of my Corvettes has been on my "mickey mouse" quick jack for 2 weeks. So far I have:

- Installed a rear tow hook, with alot of banging around of mufflers and tail pipes
- Removed and inspected the rotors
- Replaced brake pads on all four corners
- Changed the oil
- Installed new Bilstein shocks on all four corners
- Removed entire front fascia
- Installed a splitter reinforcement brace
- Drilled into the frame to install a front tow hook
- Cleaned various areas of the undercarriage
- Jacked the suspension up on all four corners

I still need to finish installing the front tow hook, run my ducting for the brakes and a few other odds and ends. So it will sit up there nice and safe for another week or two. Then another Vette will go on it for other work I intend to do.

The car has not moved, budged, creaked or swayed, other than my movements of the suspension. It sits exactly the way I put it when I raised it up and locked it into place two weeks ago.

You getting all of this done on your "race ramps"? Good luck.

What if that thing breaks and falls on you? Dead in seconds!

What if a meteorite hits the earth? :crazy2:

Mitch is trolling. I am done feeding him. He thinks you can change brakes on race ramps. Or he has never turned a wrench. Likely doesn't even own a Corvette either. Trolling me any way you cut it. No facts. No evidence. Just troll-talk.

I'm happy to answer any legitimate questions if anyone is actually interested though, which I thought was the point of this thread. Don't even know why people bother trying to help on here anymore.

With the quickjack, you can still back-up the entire operation with jack-stands and a jack if you really feel like it. The primary point is that you can raise the car and get all four wheels off and keep it that way indefinitely. And this is done in rapid fashion. Slide ramps, push button. 30 seconds later car is lifted. Makes things a SHIT ton easier to do alot of things. If you are still afraid to crawl under the car after the 5000lb rated locking bars are engaged, then you can easily slide some jack stands under it and a jack as well in about 5 seconds.

Sounds good.

:thumbs:
Question: where is the load when the car is resting? I don't quite get the locking bar (well I get it, but the load is not resting on it right?)

Does the ground need to be perfectly flat?

Will this scratch an epoxy floor coating?

Maybe I am wrong but it seems to me the hydraulics in that quick lift could fail at any time then you would be crushed to death. Old school jacks will not fail unless the wielding gives out. Maybe I am wrong. Correct me if I am.

Heck, I was getting all excited. I thought it was an aerodynamic question. Resume normal navigation.OUT.

When you are ready to lower the car, how do you know that the hydraulics are still functional before you release the locking bar?

Also, can the locking bar be engaged in a position other than the full height?

You don't release the locking bar manually. You engage the hydraulics to lift the car off of the locking bar. There is a metal piece that folds out of the way and then you can lower the car past the locking bar points. So it is a trivial matter to test the hydraulics both up and down before releasing the locking bar. Put it a different way, you can raise and lower the car higher than the locking bar to test it, with the locking bar engaged. The locking bar simply stops the lift from lowering the car past a certain point.

There are two positions for the locking bar. One is at full height (as pictured) and the second is about half of the height pictured. You could also stop the lift at any point in the raise and let the hydraulics hold it if you really wanted. If I were to do that, and I haven't seen the need to, I would have a jack underneath or jack stands as a backup.


The load is dispersed from the lift points (4), through the lift and to the ground. The locking bar simply prevents the lift from going any lower and does carry some load. Once engaged, the lift simply cannot be lowered as long as the overall load threshold is not significantly overwhelmed. From my own testing, I am guessing it is many thousands of pounds more than what it is rated.


I believe the max lateral slope is 3 degrees and max longitudinal slope is 4 degrees. So a slight slope is OK. I would not raise any car by any means on a slope much more than that.

I doubt it. It has wheels on one end and can be rolled around. When up in the air, if you add up the total surface area of the bottom frames which is the contact patch, for me it adds up to more than the surface area of four tires.

You are wrong, and I have already told you this in multiple posts. Please read what I have already written. THE HYDRAULICS ARE NOT USED TO HOLD THE CAR IN PLACE. The locking bar is. You are not under the car during operation (raising and lowering) of the lift. Do you comprehend this simple thing? Stop trolling me, it is annoying.

I understand friend, but don't be so hateful and demanding! I simply disagreed and see this lift as dangerous. We are all on this forum to agree, disagree and learn however, after reading more, it appears this is a good solid and safe lift so thanks for clarifying buddy. Enjoy your lift.

Fair enough. I apologize. It just seems like I am repeating myself. I do admit that the lift looks flimsy in pictures. If I just saw those pictures and knew nothing else I would also question how safe it was. It doesn't appear to inspire confidence. All I can do is report that in person it looks and is much stronger and report my own experience with it. Each piece is quite heavy. I have not weighed them, but they are at least 90-100lbs and feel very sturdy and well built. When I move the frames I need to use the separate handle bars. Nothing is hollow. It is all solid.

Saw this the other day, it might be safe to say it will meet its rated weight

Good video, they look a bit less flimsy in this video

Those are pretty good videos Larry. They show the lift pretty well. For someone without alot of room and who doesn't want to deal with a giant 4 post or scissor, I really feel this lift is a good, safe alternative. Money was no object for me. I picked the lift I felt was best for my purposes. One of my Vettes is still sitting on it as I type. I am up early getting ready to crawl underneath her. Gotta wait another hour or so I don't wake the house with all the banging and clanking I am about to create. :) Snow is coming on Sunday, and I hate having to fire up the loud jet engine salamander heater.

Nice Vid, I'm gonna buy one.

Judging from previous pictures here it LOOKS LIKE there is enough room on the Quick Jacks to remove the differential and transmission from a C5 when on the platforms at full-lift.

Can someone confirm that is or is not the case please?

In addition to clearance I would think you would have to be concerned with shifting the center of gravity when changing out major components.

I agree with Fred, it's still dangerous when doing hard wrenching. Race Ramps offer way better stability when hard wrenching plus I like Fred. Race Ramps is a very viable and good product ... Thanks Fred.

I would think so. If there are any pictures you want to see let me know. My C6 is on it right now.

Why do you continue to say it is dangerous? Have you yourself tested this lift? I have. I have my car on it RIGHT NOW. The car does not move WHAT-SO-EVER when hard wrenching. I have literally attempted to push the car off the lift and it doesn't move. What is hard to understand about this? It is disingenuous of you to say what you are saying when you have never used this equipment. Yes we all have the right to our opinion, but yours is an uneducated, misleading one.

It's very simple amigo, I'm not a Shill, like you! Why are you so angry? I don't agree with you so you are crying now? I gave my opinion that it's a viable product but also expressed serious concerns over safety. Race Ramps cannot fail but Hydraulics can! My advice is stop shilling for Quick Jack because I would not be surprised if you were a paid Shill for Quick Jack. Have a good day my friend.

Dude, I don't own either. I'm trying to decide on the lift or not. The ramps don't interest me at all. What I can say is that you are annoying to read. You keep saying things about this lift, yet don't own one. I can see where Mordeth is coming from. You spun. Like you own stock in race ramps.

I have absolutely zero affiliation with Quickjack. None. Not one iota. Not in any way, shape or form. I purchased it on my own and paid full price, like everyone else. Got it? You don't even own a Corvette and are here wasting people's time with your nonsensical, uneducated, misleading statements. You are the very definition of a troll. Go away. No one is interested in what you have to say.

You are in error. I own Race Ramps, and proud of the product. Fred is a stand up guy! I simply gave my 2 cents worth that I think it's a little dangerous, nothing more! Whatever you decide, good luck friend.

And you are a Racist by calling me troll, which I am not. It's none of your business but I own two older Corvettes in my Garage now. Honestly, you seem angry like maybe you voted for Hillary? The bottom line, I gave my 2 cents what think so take it for what it's worth and please leave me alone. Have a nice weekend friend.

I have no idea what you are talking about. You are embarrassing your friend "Fred". I am done with you for good.

The race ramps do look awesome, but I have a few issues
1) can't do any suspension, brake, or tire work
2) $2k for plastic, seems ridiculous when Rhino ramps are 1/40th to 1/60th the price.
$300 absolutely
$500 ehh maybe, it does make things easier over standard Rhino Ramps
$2000 lol what? Is there a decimal place issue?

I was changing the brakes on my buddy's S4 yesterday. First, I hate Audi, always have to do something different and second I've reaffirmed how much I hate jacks and jack stands.

I don't work on cars as much these days as I've got a miniature 1 car garage, but I definitely wouldn't mind getting a bit more active again

Larry, I don't understand your complaint. Fred's Race Ramps are awesome. Never had any problems.

I hear you. I got real sick and tired of jacking up corners, manipulating jack stands and screwing around with the whole operation. REAL sick and tired of it. It is nice to just push a button and the whole car lifts and stays there as long as you want. Mine has been on the lift for almost 3 weeks now. Just pounded off the rotors last night. No issues. I can't stand taking my car to the dealer or shop, so I prefer to do my own work. I am no pro - not even close, but I can turn a wrench.

And just ignore Mitch. He is trolling this thread. He doesn't understand that you can't change brakes or tires using race ramps. And he somehow found a way to bring up Hilary Clinton in a discussion regarding lifts! Amazing. Fred does have a real nice product though. It is of very high quality and for its intended purpose it does it well.

Not complaining, just stating facts...there should never be a "problem", it's pretty simplistic

I've had Rhino Ramps for 15 years, they're great but limited in what you can do. Race Ramps aren't too different than Rhino Ramps except that you get all fours off the ground

I've saved most of my money by changing my own brakes, rear end, springs, shocks, lower control arms, sway bars, spindle arm, etc.

Can't do any of that on Rhino Ramps or Race Ramps

One more little benefit, for us folks in the Northern states, we can likely store our cars on the quick jack and keep the tires off the ground

I see the jack in the front, but I assume when you actually get under it you place 4 jack stands on the corners??? As a Paramedic Fireman for 27 years I have ran on a couple fatalities where jack hydrolics have failed, not a good seen. You can never go wrong with a few jack stands

As I have said 3-4 times in this post, the lift is not held up by hydraulics. It is held up by two locking bars, with a combined total load rating of the unit with locking bars rated at 5000lbs. My own testing suggests the load rating is actually much higher. With the locking bars engaged, the hydraulics are not being used to hold the car up. I have said this over and over and over. In fact, you could completely disconnect the hoses and unplug the hydraulic pump if you wanted.

So to repeat for the 5th time, THE HYDRAULICS ARE NOT USED TO HOLD UP THE CAR. THE HYDRAULICS ARE USED TO LIFT AND LOWER THE CAR.

If you still wanted, 4 jack stands can be placed under the car in about 5 seconds. In the upper left hand corner of my second picture, you can see my blue jack stands available if I feel it is necessary.

So the car is held up BY THE LOCKING BARS, which when combined with the unit (WITHOUT HYDRAULICS) are rated to 5000lbs. I still have the hydraulics engaged in these pictures, which are ONLY A BACKUP. Then I have a second hydraulic jack as well as jack stands available if I am actually under the car. I am fairly certain that I am safer under my car than you are driving around the street.

Mordeth- I advise always Jack Stands. The LOCKING BARS could fail. Welds are not 100% anymore. Better safe than sorry .... Good day friend.

My God... After watching this thread go straight to the bowels of He!! I can't believe that I'm responding.

But... Really?? I guess the welds on jack stands can fail also. Or they can just break because the metal is inferior. Or there could be an earthquake while you're under the car.

But I'm probably a racist also so please ignore this...:ack:

Those with quckjacks, are you just parking your car over it daily?
I just wanted to know if I can just leave the quickjack there under the corvette to double up the garage space.

I do. You can drive over them but not <on> them. So when I'm done with my work, I lower them then push them under the car and leave them there.

Well, I did not vote for Hilary, but the idea of safely lifting all 4 corners with minimal effort (QUICKJACK)definitely has my attn. not to mention $1200 vs $1900,
One last thing, it seems to me that good old Mitch84 has already a couple of $ in 2 cents at a time��

Thanks for the info.

So where is the place to get the best price on the QuickJack?

I got mine from GarageEnthusiast.com

They are a forum sponsor here. $75 discount to Corvette forum members. They were pretty good with keeping me informed of availability and shipping info. Mine arrived in about 2 weeks from order date. I did have a problem when I first ordered as my bank rejected the purchase. Ended up putting it on my credit card, who also rejected the order until I called them and told them to let it go through. Issue was on my end.

I have personally witnessed two different sets of ramps fail. One set failed when the vehicle was about half way up the ramp. The other failed after being up on the ramp about 5 minutes. Lucky for you, you weren't under the vehicle. There are hundreds of welds on a car. If you don't trust welding maybe you should give up driving.

Your Ramps failed? How so? Cheap ugly Rhino Ramps? Or Fred's amazing Ramps? Kinda hard to believe you. Please give specifics how they failed .... :crazy2:

How are you not banned from here? Mods, please remove him

How have I hurt your feelings? Just because you don't like me, so you have the authority to order the Mods to ban me? Wow, ok whatever .... :crazy2:

I do the same, works well

Since you are unable to comprehend what happened own your own, let me try to explain it to you. They were unable to support the weight. They were both SUV rated heavy duty ramps. If memory serves me correct both were 5000 lbs rated. The first set were not mine, the owner said he bought them at autozone. I bought the second set at O'Reilly auto. The vehicle on both sets of ramps was a 1996 chevy 1/2 ton pickup, regular cab, short bed, V8, and auto. Well below rated capacity. Bought a set of Rhino ramps after that and no problems. As I said earlier, lucky for you you weren't under them. :crazy::crazy::crazy: Hope that clears it up for you. And good luck on your weatherman job.:thumbs:

[QUOTE=Fred@ReverseLogic;1593494434]When you are ready to lower the car, how do you know that the hydraulics are still functional before you release the locking bar? You will not be able to release the safety catches until you lift the car up a small amount. That would show you that the hydraulics are functional. Of course your low profile ramps would be better for loading a low vehicle onto a flatbed towtruck or loading onto a trailer. Not saying your ramps will not work for service work because they will. How ever some of your high end sets are on the same price point as some hydraulic lifts. And when at the same price point, the lifts do have some nice features, such as being EZ to remove all wheels at once and doing suspension and brake work. No hard feelings just stating the obvious.

Call Quick jack they have a black friday deal! 1-888-262-3880 Just ordered one

How do you like it so far? How are the welds?

Just ordered it today so when it comes Ill give some feed back. For me it will work great I have a 4 post hoist for the big stuff. I did get the 3500 and the DC pump so I can use it anywhere. Its made by or for bend pak a big hoist seller

Cool so let us know ..... :)

It is a little bit of a pain to assemble, but not too difficult. Get yourself 3 quarts of Dexron III ATF. You will need it.

And be sure to bleed it. You have to raise and lower it about half way a few times at first to get the fluid through the lines, then bleed at the bleed screws. Also, it will be jerky at first with no load on it - this is normal. The instructions are pretty straight forward. I ran into a few hitches but it all worked out.

How good is the deal? I might have to call from Afghanistan.

Saw a commercial last light for $100 off

Yes:thumbs:

Is there enough room under the car on this thing to do long tube headers?

I think I'm going to order the QuickJack this month, are there any other alternatives I should consider? My garage is a small 1 car, so space is an extreme premium.

If anyone is aware, would I be able to service the fuel line on a 2002 Trans Am (it runs alongside the drive side frame rail)

For the price, safety, space considerations and convenience, I wasn't able to find a better alternative.

As far as the fuel line work, there is a small amount of left-right adjustment available before you lift the car. It will ultimately be determined by the jacking points and the contact point of the rubber blocks they give you. The rubber blocks sit in a cradle on top of the unit, and can be moved to the inner side, allowing you to pull the unit out a small amount. As long as the rubber block makes full contact with the jacking point, you can lift the car. On my Vette, the unit extends under the car 9.5 inches from the edge of the side skirt. 7.5 inches from the outside edge of the rocker.

So I would think 10 inches of unusable space would be worse case scenario. Again, will depend on the jacking point.

Just put mine (Quickjack) together today.
 

Really sturdy- easy to assemble and make work. Stows away nicely under the car. I repeated the thing the guy did on the video and TRIED to shake the car and it just doesn't budge. It's not balanced on top of the lift it's sitting on the jack points, just where you'd put the pucks. No doubt in my mind you could do just about anything to it. Easily as strong as jack stands.

I think Mitch is just having you all on - or bored out of his mind and looking for a dust up. It's easy to be aggravating when you don't have to face actual people to do it. Respect isn't very interesting but makes things work better. How about a little more of it, ok Mitch? Offer information when you have it, and keep mum when you don't.

This is my first Corvette so this may be a silly question but... does the jack just seat on the frame or do you have to use some pucks? Do they make specifically designed ramps for individual cars or are they generic jacks that work on all cars? Thanks for the help.

Not a stupid question at all. I had the exact same question before I bought mine. As Jeff said above, it lifts at the jacking points.

It does not lift along the whole frame of the car, although it looks that way in pics. What happens is that they supply you with these rectangular, rubber blocks. There are a few sizes. They sit on top of the lift at 4 separate locations and can be moved around. These are the lift points.

So on a Vette, due to the fact that it is low and may have side skirts, you can also use jacking pucks. Using the pucks also makes sure that the rubber blocks don't touch the rockers. So the procedure is to install the pucks on the car, slide the lift under the car, then place the supplied rubber blocks on top of the lift and directly under where the pucks are. So basically the rubber blocks will lift exactly where the pucks are, onto the pucks. It can be done without the pucks as well if your car has enough room at the jacking points.

As far as I know, the ramps are generic and will likely work on most cars. They are rated according to weight. I have the 5000lb rated unit but they also make a 7000lb rated unit with an adapter for SUVs. I've used my lift on my Benz, both my Vettes (C6 and C7), my wife's Acura and my son's Nissan. All with no problem. Just locate the jacking points on the car, and arrange the rubber blocks to be below those points. I've used it with and without pucks.

Any adapters needed for pinch welds?

There are two kinds of pinch welds. American and Japanese cars typically have reinforced pinch welds. For these cars you lift the car directly on the pinch weld. Pinch welds on European cars (like Fiat or Audi) typically do not have reinforced pinch welds. The lift point on these cars is on the inboard side of the pinch weld.

If you are lucky enough to get an emergency scissors jack with your car, you can confirm the type of pinch weld you have by observing the way the vehicle jack engages with the pinch weld. For cars with a reinforced pinch weld, the jack will not have a very deep slot. For European cars, the jack will usually have a deep slot that straddles the pinch weld.

Using the wrong pinch weld adapter can either fold over the pinch weld, or dent the body on either side of the pinch weld.

Kwik Lift
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a80c2155c4.jpg

IMG 6224

Depending on the width of the pinch weld, you can purchase an adapter that can go over it, and serve as the jacking point. Search google for: FIGS JACK JAW Frame Rail Armor

I think this one is good for up to 7mm.