Fixed my underhood lights
When I bought the car the lights weren't working. It wasn't a priority to fix, but last night I had some spare time so i figured I'd look into it.
Driver's side was easy, it was mounted upside down so the mercury switch never closed. passenger's side was a little more complicated. I had 12v across the terminals with the bulb out. Took the bulb to the bench power supply and it worked. Installed an LED version of the bulb and it barely turned on. So I had voltage but not sufficient current. Cleaned the bulb holder and mercury switch with no improvement. Went to the connector on the right corner/turn light assembly. Separated it and inserted 12v directly to the bulb side and it started working. Looked in the supply side of the connector and found oxidation. Pulled the fuse and cleaned the connector with contact cleaner and some dental pick scraping. That cured the problem. hope this helps someone else. |
So, the underhood courtesy light get power from the turn-light assembly? Interesting that it would have power all the time. I get what you are saying about the plug/connector though.
More importantly, how did you clean the mercury switch? I always felt that was the problem on my passenger side light. :cheers: |
Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
(Post 1594294562)
So, the underhood courtesy light get power from the turn-light assembly? Interesting that it would have power all the time. I get what you are saying about the plug/connector though.
More importantly, how did you clean the mercury switch? I always felt that was the problem on my passenger side light. :cheers: As far as cleaning the switch, They just pop out with the use of a small screw driver. Mine had a white/grey oxidation which i cleaned of with cleaner and a brass brush around the outside and on the tip. As I mentioned the corrosion that I had trouble from was in the two pin connector for the passenger side. One other thought, if your spraying contact cleaner make sure you have the fuse out our you could create a short circuit and blow the fuse. BTW i'm pretty sure it's the same mercury switch that is in the center console. |
Went to LED's about a year ago. Great for showing the engine bay at night. Probaly 2 to 3 times the brightness.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...e/DSC00022.jpg |
Nice write up. I worked for AMP/Tyco Electronics for 30+ years in the connector divisions. It's easy to forget about the maintenance of the connectors. Especially the ones in the front of the car. These connections are getting old and need maintenance. The corrosion creates resistance and that creates problems. Dielectric grease is your friend.....just clean contacts gently, you want to remove as little finish as possible.
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Originally Posted by belairbrian
(Post 1594295015)
The power comes from a fuse mounted to the left turn lamp assembly. It's closed in a cover. I'll post up a pic tonite. From the fuse it goes to a two pin connector on each side of the car. Also on the turn lamp assembly.
As far as cleaning the switch, They just pop out with the use of a small screw driver. Mine had a white/grey oxidation which i cleaned of with cleaner and a brass brush around the outside and on the tip. As I mentioned the corrosion that I had trouble from was in the two pin connector for the passenger side. One other thought, if your spraying contact cleaner make sure you have the fuse out our you could create a short circuit and blow the fuse. BTW i'm pretty sure it's the same mercury switch that is in the center console. I picture a mercury switch as a reservoir filled with liquid mercury. And, to clean THAT, you'd have to disassemble, pour/save the mercury, clean, and reassemble. Since you didn't mention anything along those lines, it sounds like you didn't pull the lights physically apart? Or...do I have a misconception of a mercury switch? |
Originally Posted by belairbrian
(Post 1594293799)
Driver's side was easy, it was mounted upside down so the mercury switch never closed.
Originally Posted by scuba717
(Post 1594296159)
It's easy to forget about the maintenance of the connectors. Especially the ones in the front of the car. These connections are getting old and need maintenance.
Thanks, these are both good suggestions. I need to get busy and fix my passenger side light now :D |
The fuse is in this holder - should be 10 amp
the connector is for the drivers side the passengers is in the same place (on the other side obviously) https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ff91a5184c.jpg The mercury switch is in the top of the light assy (unless some moron installed the light upside down) https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d76bbeb324.jpg this is the mercury switch removed and cleaned. it pops in and out fairly easily https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a5986b2cd8.jpg this is the end of the switch showing the contact and insulator https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6c5a77b722.jpg |
Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
(Post 1594298564)
I picture a mercury switch as a reservoir filled with liquid mercury. And, to clean THAT, you'd have to disassemble, pour/save the mercury, clean, and reassemble.
Since you didn't mention anything along those lines, it sounds like you didn't pull the lights physically apart? Or...do I have a misconception of a mercury switch? The switch is sealed and being shield should not have corrosion on the inside. |
Originally Posted by CREWZIN
(Post 1594296039)
Went to LED's about a year ago. Great for showing the engine bay at night. Probaly 2 to 3 times the brightness.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...e/DSC00022.jpg |
Originally Posted by belairbrian
(Post 1594300394)
I've gone to LEDs on the hood lights, B-pillar lights, door lights, mirror lights and floor lights.
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This is awesome... It's one of the only things wrong with my vette...
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Absolutely going to look into this, as mine are INOP as well...and I hate dealing with electric crap...Just a PITA honestly
D. |
Originally Posted by FOURSPEEDVETTE
(Post 1594311561)
Did you have to change anything other than just the bulbs?
One thing I found was with the map lights in the mirror. You have to choose if you want them to work with the other lights OR independently. Can't have both like with the incandescent bulbs. Also to install the LEDs in the mirror I had to remove the lenses. i couldn't get them in from the back like the original bulbs. |
Originally Posted by Need A Vette
(Post 1594312259)
Absolutely going to look into this, as mine are INOP as well...and I hate dealing with electric crap...Just a PITA honestly
D. |
Great write up - Thank you!
Two quick questions: 1) So the fuses are located on either side of the car, in the nose of car and not where all the typical fuses are? Also - what is used to get that out? A little flat head? 2) The mercury switch needs to be removed and cleaned? Im assuming this can be done with a steel brush or brass brush? Thanks again! |
Originally Posted by Mayor111
(Post 1594356871)
Great write up - Thank you!
Two quick questions: 1) So the fuses are located on either side of the car, in the nose of car and not where all the typical fuses are?Thanks again!
Originally Posted by Mayor111
(Post 1594356871)
Also - what is used to get that out? A little flat head?
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...96cf867a6a.jpg
Originally Posted by Mayor111
(Post 1594356871)
2) The mercury switch needs to be removed and cleaned? Im assuming this can be done with a steel brush or brass brush?
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I wonder if mine work. I've had them unhooked for 15+ years :leaving:
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BOOM!! Bro - Thank you!! Opened the fuse, and sure enough, the fuse was broken/bad inside.
My under-hood lights lit up like Christmas trees once I swapped out the fuse!! I owe ya one! :rock: |
I've never really looked at mine or had them out to see how that mercury switch worked, but you said one didn't work because it was upside down. Makes me wonder then if it could come on when the hood is down instead of up and be the mystery battery drain some people sometimes get.:shrug:
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