Help Corvette won't
 

I rebuild the engine , after the break-in process it spit out the coolant through water neck and hose . I changed the oil and filter and now the car won‘t start . I have spark , 47psi on the fuel rail , pulse on the injectors . I try a new ecm , Bought a new electronic spark control module but it won‘t help . I‘m searching on the internet for a long time .

You’re a new member and have no car information in you post or your profile. There are many different vetts for C4s and systems. You're not going to get any answers if people don’t know what they're going to be talking about. You need to indicate what year and any changes from the stock systems.

It‘s a 1986 Corvette . https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...therlands.html

Welcome to the Forum!

How long did you run the engine during the "break-in"? Did the engine get up to the normal operating temperature during the "break-in"? Are you sure the cooling system was full during the "break-in"? Did the engine over heat?

Please explain what you saw as the "spit out the coolant through the water neck and hose". Was the coolant hose not connected to the radiator? It sounds like you may not have had the water pump operating during the "break-in"?

:cool:

Have you verified that there is no spark at the plugs of off the coil?

Where ever the coolant went, did you check all the electrical in the area to see if the coolant could have affected the items in that area?

Plugs wet or dry?

I run the engine for 25 minutes from 2200/2500 rpm with a normal operating temperature , everything seems to be in order so i turn the key to stop the engine , in maybe 5 seconds it spit out the coolant . I think i did not tighten the hose clamp enough and it spay to the side en to the front .
Now when i try to start the engine the brake and hatch light come up ( i don‘t know if this is normal ) The oil presure going from 20 to 450 so that is not normal . The spark plugs are not to wet . I have new ACDelco RAPIDFIRE Performance Platinum Spark Plugs 5 and new spark plug wires .

my 2-cents -- well, if you have spark (at the plugs), adequate fuel pressure (???), my guess is you might have a timing issue. go back and check everything.

how is the spark - color: blue-white, or yellow orange. yellow orange indicates a weak spark and could be a weak coil. you may consider a secondary, air-gap, spark tester, or an HEI spark tester.

run a basic fuel pressure test - key on, fuel pump activated, pressure (about 42 psi) for a couple seconds, pump off, and a pressure drop to about 37 psi. should hold for some period of time.

double check your timing. good luck... :rock:

Fuel pressure is 47 psi , if i try to start the car it‘s 45 psi , when i stop the pressure drop fast to 15 psi . I take of the vaccuum from the fuel pressure regulator and it‘s dry . The spark is orange .

How much coolant came out? The coolant could have got into some electrical connections.

orange spark usually indicates a weak spark. maybe not enough energy for ignition. your spark should be blue-white. you could have possible weak coil. what's odd, is you had a running engine, developed a coolant leak, and now, nothing. odd - ??? are you sure of your timing - 6° BTDC. fuel pressure might be a tad high, but I don't think that's the issue. have you tried a shot of starting fluid?

trace everything back to square one - might be something simple. time to dig out the old FSM and start with the basics. good luck!

He won‘t start on starting fluid , i going to check the timing again .:cheers:

Either you have a leaking fuel injector(s) or the check valve in your fuel pump is bad. The pressure should not drop like that. Pull the plugs and see how they look.

I looked and i have a weak spark . Im thinking to order a new Cardone Industries 84-1869 .

why are you thinking about a new distributor instead of the cap, rotor and coil ?

the only time you would need a new distributor is if it is worn due to high mileage or other damage.

have you looked at the inside of the cap to see if it has a buildup of corrosion ?

ie: have you gone through the ignition system parts like you were doing a tune-up ?

There are some broken plastics parts that keep the wiring on place . I install a new rotor and module and i try a good coil from a friend and i still have a weak spark . I don't know where to look anymore .

I hope by me suggesting a weak spark, i haven't steered you down the wrong path. even with a weaker spark, there should still be signs of life when using starting fluid. sounds like that was not the case. what you consider weak and what I consider weak may be two different things, and color, being subjective, is only a primary test. exactly, how are you determining a weak spark? did you use a proper HEI spark-gap test tool? a test tool like this is pretty much a standard, go-no go type of thing - if you have spark with this, your ignition system should be healthy enough to support combustion.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...243e5595b6.jpg

:rock:

I have my spark plug gap at 0,45 . I don't have a tester

What happens if i have a bad maf sensor ? can this be the problem ?

Is it possible that he is in a limp-home mode and won‘t start ?