1990 c4 t56
 

I know, I know.
There are plenty of theards on installing a T56 in a C4, but if you actually read them its all about the 1984 thru 1989 models. There is very little information on the 1990-1992 model.
What is so different?
More so does any one have information and or pics of the difference of the centerforce flywheel 700100 and 700107?
Both are for the two piece main seal?
Which I have a L83 block in my 90.

I would imagine there is little information on the 89-96 on that swap since those cars come with the ZF6 (if equipped with a manual from the factory). The ZF6 is a stout manual equipped for the C4; c-beam provision built in.

And if I was going to swap a manual tranny into an auto equipped C4.......there is a whole lot to talk about there with the market value of these cars....the swap would cost you as much a ZF manual C4; maybe a slight exaggeration but not far from reality.

I have a ZF6 retro fitted 85; been running for 13 years with 0 issues; I even run an aftermarket FW and clutch; would never consider another manual personally; not yet anyway until something else comes along making a whole conversion kit/clutch assembly, etc. for the C4. That has been done in the past for the 4+3 equipped cars I know, but that is a different narrative than the 89-96 cars.

There really isn't any difference besides the interior pieces and a bit different wiring locations for the LT1 cars. The L83,L98 and LT1 cars all have the same bellhousing bolt pattern.

The 100107 is specifically designed to mate with the LT1 style T-56. No idea why it's any different than 700100 but I have no idea. Ask Centerforce and yes they are both 2-piece RMS. Is that the only flywheel you can find? That's a ripoff. I personally run a basic $100 iron flywheel on my T-56 swapped 84'. But I also run an LT1 and that's a 1-piece RMS so I can run a stock 93-97 F-body flywheel.

Most people do the swaps on the earlier cars due to the lack of a decent trans. The Later 700r4's I would imagine are better than the earlier ones plus the 4+3 was gone, manual cars got the ZF6 6-speed starting in 89' I believe. In addition to all that the earlier cars are cheaper and easier to find so they are ripe for swaps and low budget builds.

It's been a minute since I updated but with a new radiator, upper and lower ball joints, poly bushings, heater core and a centerforce 700107 flywheel. I put the motor back in and the T56 is in the air. Now I have to build the bracket and install some new LEDs in the instrument cluster and put the car back together. It only took me months to get here. Lol
hopefully I'll be crusing the streets of Hawaii this summer. I just need my wife to give me time. Lolhttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...822c330d8c.jpg

It looks good, nice progress on the swap. A couple of things i discovered in my T56 swap (use what you need, toss the rest). I sectioned the
driver side header collector and cheated it away from the transmission to gain some room for the slave cylinder. I also put the O2 sensor in
the passenger side collector. Yours may not need any of that but my '86 did. Good luck with it.

What brand header? I bought the OBX headers and they clear it fine. I wrapped the header in heat wrap near the slave though just to be safe.

Benny's & V8vette84 brings up something I have not thought of yet, thanks. I have a set of long pipe hedman headers. They come closer to the passenger side of the car than I would like but I haven't mounted the driver side or slave cylinder or exhaust yet.
any insight from the guys who have already swapped it out please tell us your story, thank you.

Shoots, I have to figure a way around the driver side header. it sits right on the Transmission where the Slave Cylinder would mount., did any of you have heat issues with the cylinder melting? It just seems way too close? I heard some folks opt to go for a hydraulic throw-out bearing. Thanks

My headers/pipes are maybe 2" from the slave cylinder. I wrapped my headers around that area just to be safe.

You mean an LS1 style setup? The LT1 is also hydraulic besides the fork. Mine has never given me a lick of problems. I'm using the C4 master with an F-body line and slave.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...02aca8f997.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d666f78e7f.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...aabac06232.jpg
^^ thats a good way to go, used a 700107 for a 2 pc rear main. There has to be about .030 gap to where the clutch is really disengaged (between disc & flywheel). Ignore the headers its not a C4
Most the pedal throw doesnt do much its that last bit..or change the geometry. They are self adjusting so..

The slaves some with a plastic tip that fits over the end where it goes into the fork. Shoulda left it on, if you need more adjustment to disengage thats where to do it unless you use a spacer behind the FW. I used none. It disengages but its tight.

Always thought 90 was a 1 pc rms guess not?
Their dual friction clutches are nice...smooth light pedal not an on/off switch.
The slave does not get hot in proximity to the headers (wrapped them anyways)

Edit saw L83..if thats a 2 pc this will work.
The T56 out there are getting old, be careful buying one. Lots of places selling rebuilts for what a "rebuild" would cost for an old used one that guys want way too much for typically on CL

The clutch is still the LT1 style setup from the 96-97 Camaro where the slave cylinder came from. I’m using the entire T56 transmission, Housing, Clutch, Throw-out bearing, mini starter and slave cylinder, with the master cylinder from a 1991 C4. The motor is two piece rear main seal with a ($$$) CF 700107 Flywheel.

I have a set of long pipe hedman headers that clear the passenger side, yet the driver side hits the slave cylinder housing on the transmission? Wondering If I should go back to the stock headers and reroute the air pump? I was going to bypass the air pump and leave the cat off the vehicle. Lucky I have the exhaust for both set-ups still.

But getting that passenger side header off in the car is going to be a PItA. After this tropical storm passes I should be able to get back out there and mess with it.

I still need an adaptor from the C4 master cylinder to the AN3 hose though, I’ll have to find that next after I figure the header clearance.

Goods/Bads about adding long tube headers and deleting the cat?

Aloha all,
its been a little while since ive updated, college got in the way lol. Yet over that time here and there ive strarted brackets from wood, aluminium, stainless, and now steel. Finding various ways of failing and learning. I was wondering if anyone had thought of wrapping the C beam vs building inside? Seems there is more meat to weld on? Yes I know it is harder to put the C beam on if its outside. You would have to put the bracket about half way up, put the C bean and adaptor in, then slide the bracket in place. Here is my progress so far. Interested in your comments, thanks.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...905d935c32.jpg
Various bracket fails, lol
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ab07672862.jpg
Current progress Feb 6, 2019

Today I got closer and test fit the bracket. With work, up, down, up, down, left, right, left, right, select, start with the trans, diveshaft, c beam, and bracket it can fit. I think next time I will work on the inner c beam bracket to reach around the trans for extra support.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b023184c41.jpg
Progress Feb 2019

Nice work. I bought my T-56 to C-beam adapter. Unfortunately I bought the earlier version which has long openings for the bolt in the c-beam to go down in. The newer versions you had to mark and drill the hole yourself. My version allows the shifter to lift up and boy does it lift up... :eek:

I have even bought new hardened bolts and have cranked them down like crazy and it still lifts. Next time the tranny or c-beam is out I will fix the bracket. One day...

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...838d4bf26c.jpg
Bracket tuning.
This weekend went slow due to the wind and rain, yet i fitted and fine tuned the bracket. Unfortunately the arm is off and needs to be reinforced. Ill hit that tomorrow. After all this i completely forgot i still need to research getting a ECM chip burned. Mine is still the auto one. Ill start reading this week on that. If anyone knows who burns them, let me know. It maybe easier just to have someone burn and send me one as no one in Hawaii does them apparently. Thanks
Happy Presidents day!

Solomon does chips.

http://www.lt1pcmtuning.com/

"TBI/TPI/LT1/LS1 Tuning Tips & Service"

Seems to do a decent job, me and 2 of my buddies have had tuning done by him. Not many people burning chips anymore.

Awesome work OP.