shortblock, heads and cam, please check my shopping list
 

1990 automatic. I had an oiling problem due to dent in the oil pan and wrecked a rod bearing. I plan on a 10.5:1 stroker with 5.7 rod. Factory ecu will be retained. Not out to break any records, but if I have to rebuild this L98 then we're going to make a few upgrades.

Has anyone used JEGS cylinder heads pn 5140032? It is a 195cc intake port 85cc exhaust, 64cc chamber and says it flows a massive 274cfm @ .600 and over 200 beyond .300 of lift. These appear to be machined for center bolt valve covers and have a straight spark plug. $1200/pr assembled.
Also in the running are Trick Flow TFS-30410007-M64. Another 195 intake runner but 75cc exhaust, 64cc CNC finished chamber. flow just about 200cfm at .300 and 258 at .600. These have angle plug and centerbolt holes. $1500/pr assembled.
And of course AFR 195 eliminators, with smaller 64cc exhaust runners and a 65cc combustion chamber. fully cnc finished with a big ole 2.05 intake valve, 8mm stem. They only have perimeter valve cover bolts but have angle plug. They flow 200cfm at .3 and 280 at .55 and the pair sells for $1600.

I don't really know what I'm looking at in terms of the hardware on the heads. I'm sure the jegs are going to be cheaper springs and valves and whatnot, but I think everything i've listed should work with a high lift roller cam?

I like the comp 08-466-8 Exhaust Valve Lift 0.565. Intake Valve Lift (in.)0.570 with 1.6 arm. Int. Duration @ .050 in. (Deg)218Exh. Duration @ .050 in. (Deg)224. This looks pretty similar to the ZZ409 cam.

And finally I plan to top this off with a pair of Edelbrock runners I found. These are the early style with 9th injector which I think I can just block it off on the runner? I'll match my base to the ports and try my best to open up my factory manifold. I'm sticking with the factory stuff because of cost, but it would be easy to change out later.

I welcome your constructive comments. Am I making the right choice to put money in the heads today and change the intake later?

If you have any questions on our heads, just let me know. The "repair parts" tab on the part number web page has a complete list of the quality parts we put into them.

Options for the sbc are nearly unlimited and can make you dizzy trying to choose parts. Trick Flow makes good heads yes. My experience has taught me not to spend anymore for parts unless I know I need and can use them. But it's you that has decide for yourself bud.

As for a cam I always match my cam for my compression and decide on that after I measure the final volumes above the piston and in the head. But for a TPI manifold I would consider a wider lobe separation angle LSA rather than a tighter LSA. I/you would want to try and spread the power band as the TPI manifolding already helps the mid-range breathing. Something like 112* or wider LSA.

Good luck and keep us updated.:D

Thanks. This grind is on 113 LSA. Its a rough idea right now, like you said wait and see how the shortblock turns out and what heads we pick.

Awesome. I'm telling all my pals trick flow is sponsoring my build! These appear to be the most direct replacement heads. I would like to be able to reuse my stock centerbolt valve covers that I already machined off the inside drip tabs.

No seriously, can you teach a little about exhaust port volume? I have three heads here all with 195cc intake and all have 1.6" exhaust valve and three different exhaust volumes.

Yes, that's our intention with these heads...make them as trouble free as possible. The spring option you've chosen will work with the cam's valve lift.

The 195 is considered a street/strip head and we increase the runner sizes a bit. We know that most people will be running a 1 3/4 primary, so we've sized the runners at 1.350 x 1.500. We increase flow, but maintain the reversion damn between the head and the primary.

Would the 175/180 runner be more appropriately sized if I keep the TPI base on a stroker? Can I get the 195s now and change the base manifold later?

You probably need a tuner. Why not just see if they have a recommended package they can sell you? You are near enough to tow it to the Twin Cities, I think. It has been many years since I was in Sioux Falls as a student so....

http://www.hitechmotorsport.com/mach...category_id=52

I got the recommendation of cam and intake from them based on what I had and they dyno tuned it. I'm not a fan of "mix and match" myself. I'd rather buy a proven system from someone that has done some work on it so they know that this goes with that and so on.

Any reason why I should not choose a 6.0" rod for this combo? 195 head, 2.05 intake valve, 218/224 duration. The plan now is to sell the Edelbrock runners and go with Proflo XT.

Any Scat distributors or representatives here?

Pick whatever rod length you want, the 5.7 or 6.0 will work fine. The proflo XT is a good intake choice.

:iagree:
5.7 usually more affordable lots of piston choices

update: machinist gave the thumbs up that the block is ok. I've got 195 AFRs on order with Jim Barth - very supportive and helpful guy, not to mention the best price.

I was looking at Scat parts mostly because their online search is easier to use, but my machine shop favors Eagle and we picked out a 6.0 forged rod, forged Mahle piston, cast steel stroker kit. I'm leaning heavily towards the Proflo XT intake.

Started thinking about the fuel pump and injectors. The Walbro 250 was a popular item but all I see is a 450 now? Injector would be pretty straight forward if I didn't have a strong desire to experiment with 30% ethanol blended fuel at every station here. another post...

I suppose I need to do something with the transmission too? I think I'll have just enough power to break things, but I don't see any drag radials in my future. maybe 1800-2200 stall. What breaks first?

I've known Jim for years. He is a great guy andhas helped build many motors with great results for many forum members. You can't go wrong with afr. You should consider having Jim build your motor if possible.

well price is one, but the longer rod really causes the ring pack on the piston to become very compressed and requires using very narrow (and expensive) ring packages, all of which are not really very friendly for long term street use. what you are thinking about with 6.0 inch rods, I would have to consign to a "race only" application.

I'm building a 350 with 6 inch rods and it took a lot of research to find a piston and ring combo close to the oem package, the added stroke of a 383 is going to make your choices very limited.

Eagle and Scat each offered no less than three compression combinations for 3.75/6.0 rod in three different oversizes, and that was just for I-beam with a forged slug. I really dont think i'm far off the beaten path with this combination. The difference in price was less than $100, about the same price jump from hypereutectic to forged. I think gone are the days of dirt cheap standard rebuild parts.

For a brief moment yesterday I wondered if the XFI268 was the best choice at 218/224 it sounds kinda small for 11:1 compression with a 195cc head and the Proflo. I think i'm ok with it, thinking that I will appreciate a little less converter for a daily driver.

When I was researching possible pistons for a 350 with 6.0 inch rods, I noticed that the aftermarket offered more piston choices for stroker cranks with 5.7 or 6.0 inch rods; I guess it all boils down to giving people what they want; good luck :thumbs:

I built my 383 with a 6" rod, all the girls come up to my car after I park it and ask if it has a 6" Con-Rod. One of them told me they don't ride in cars with 5.7"

Craziest girls I ever met

omg. well it is done then.

On a more serious note, I built mine with 6" Rod because of less side loading of the piston on the cylinder wall and more dwell at TDC because everybody loves dwell at TDC.