Rocking seat repair. Is it as bad as it seems?
 

I have the notorious rocking seat (on acceleration and deceleration). I'm talking about the seat bottom, and not the seat back.
Anyway, I saw one video that was about 30 minutes long, and I just read the printed instructions that came with the kit I bought (last winter). Is this repair as bad as it sounds? I've been putting this off for about 8 months, mainly just being lazy. After reading the instructions again, now I remember why. Am I just being a baby, or is this really a PIA as it reads to be?

For those that have already done it, are there any tips/tricks to pass along to save me some headaches? For what it's worth, I have a convertible so removal of the seat, once its unbolted and unplugged, shouldn't be an issue as far as clearance goes.

http://www.lieblweb.com/c5seatfix.html

doesn't look that bad, this is from the diy sticky in the tech forum

Me too

I will let the next owner fix my rocking seat. It doesn't bother me.

Sadly that link appears to be dead now. In fact so many stickys in the tech section are no good since the photobucket fiasco.

Cant be as bad as Harmonic Balancer, save it for the Winter and take your time

Thanks for that. Link worked for me (pictures too). :thumbs:

me too, now. See why below :ack:

link and pics worked for me. I'm on my phone, and selected "make site mobile friendly" :shrug:


Anyway, I was most of the way through this, and had to put it all back, still "rocking". A key step is moving the seat all the way forward, and ALL THE WAY UP. I did this, except my seat "up and down", doesn't go up or down. I hear the motor and gear moving, but no seat movement. The seat position is all the way down. Because of this, I couldn't get to the rear most torx bolt. Without removing that, I couldn't remove the seat track. :bs

So, 3 and out for me....drop back and punt. :banghead:

I tried, now I know if I really want it fixed, I'll also havr to fix the up/down. For now, thats a nope.

Piece of cake

:iagree::D

To fix the up/down you'll have to get the seat out anyway. Maybe use just the driver tip and pliers to turn the rear bolts.

Bought a "kit" from West Coast Corvette about a year ago..... and today I finally did the deed. The "kit" consists of the shims, and two torx wrenches, shaped like an allen wrench. The #40 torx wrench saved me a trip to the hardware store because the #40 torx screw holding the seat track only has about a 1.5 inch clearance.

Anyway, the work is easy. Hardest thing for me was getting the electrical connectors un-hooked.

Lifting the seat out is easier in a convertible.

Be sure to blue-tape all around the door opening and up the rear post. The floor-mount legs are steel, and stick out... easy to ding up the upholstery or paint.

Took about two hours.... taking my time. (driver's seat only).

That's the kit I have. That 40 torx I couldn't get to because my seat is positioned all the way down, and won't raise up.

Wish I was closer to ya I'd give you a hand. Not as bad as it looks or sounds. Maybe see if some of your local Vette club members have done this and ask for some assistance.

Read the instructions closely. You don't unscrew the #40 torx until you have removed the seat from the car. To do that, you just need a 15mm socket and ratchet. (and unhook the electrical connectors). Or, maybe you mean you can't get to the seat mount nuts? If your seat moves forward and backward, you should be able to get to the four 15mm mount nuts, even if the seat doesn't go up and down.

I had the seat all the out, and got to the step to remove the 2 small hex screws on the track. Adter that, you're supposed to use the 40 torx, towards the rear of the track. That's the one I can't get to. After that, the 2 small hex screws on the front track, then the slide comes right out.
My seat sits right on the tracks. When I tried to raise it, the motor and gear cycles, but nothing moves. I can't find, let alone access that #40. :shrug:

OK, I see where you're at now. (by the way, I typed 15mm mount "bolts". I should have typed mount "nuts").

Doesn't sound good. I didn't look closely at the "up-down" mechanism when I had the seat out. If it works like the "forward-backward" maybe the little flexible portion of the drive shaft (about three or four inches long) has broken, or popped out of position.

I took my seat out. Brought the seat, new seat foam and the repair kit to a good upholstery shop. New bottom seat foam installed and the rocking seat repair kit installed. Had it back the next day $164. Well worth it.

The most difficult part of the rocking seat repair is removing and re-installing the seat. Replacing the shims is a piece of cake. Thought about putting in new foam... but mine appears good for a few more years. nice to know the labor costs I'll save.

My foam is still good, however if I get to that point, there is a shop less than 5 minutes from me. I'll do this and have them do it while the rest of the seat is apart. :thumbs:

I just did mine this weekend. I was replacing seat foam and leather so I had the seats out. Drivers seat is the one with the problem. I could not get one of the rear bolt out so I only repaired one. Drove it for 2 days and the problem is fixed, for now. Not sure if only doing one will last. Oh, I also forgot to raise the seat so I had to put the frame back in the car, connect and raise. I missed that step of the instruction, learned the hard way.