TieRod Removel
 

Any Tips on removing tie rod ends on a 77 C3

Remove the nut, put a big hammer on one side of the arm and smack the other side with a bigger hammer. Or use a pickle fork after removing the nut.

Take some measurements and record those numbers before doing anything. Measure from outer tie rod zerk fitting to the other outer zerk. Count the number of turns to remove the tie rods. How far apart are the inner zerk fittings? etc-etc-etc.

My experience is that you should take the measurement directly between the two posts, not to the zerks, and don't depend on counting threads either. Any replacement tie rod ends could vary in zerk position and thread length depending on manufacturer.

Previous suggestions about measuring are important. Also- there are various ways to loosen the tie rod end that require whacking with a hammer- either with or without the "pickle fork". Spend a couple bucks and get the right tool for the job. The tie rod end tools that use a threaded bolt to force the end loose also work on ball joints and other suspension parts and do not damage the rubber dust boots. You can also "rent" from Autozone. They refund your purchase price if you do not keep it and return the tool to the store.

doesn't matter weather you measure zerk to zerk or count turns, you will still need to get the car on an alignment rack.

Thats what I was getting at. Tape measure will get you a "rough-in" so you can get the car to an alignment shop. Without some crude measurements, you will be lost trying to get everything back together and staying on the road.

I recently learned a new way. No fork, no ruining dust covers, etc. This is not the video I found a few weeks ago but he uses the same method...and it works. I used a 24 oz. framing hammer and my stubborn one took 4 blows. The others came off on the 2nd hit. Just loosen the nut so it doesn't fall off completely.


I just used this method to change all 4 ball joints on my 1980.

I just found the video I was talking about. Skip to 4:30 for tie rod banging.

Never could get the hammer trick to work, bent several forks finally bought a front end set from harbour freight and have done 6 tie rods and 5 ball joints no problem. always a 20% off coupon on line for them.

I always hit on the side closest where the arm is thinnest. the hole is tapered. 1 or 2 whacks it pops right loose. done hundreds, never failed me. I have about a 2# brass hammer that works perfect.

Its really easy....but the right tool. For alignment use a string method. Most, if not all alignment shops want to make 80-150 bucks to bring your alignment back to NOMINAL values...which are most of the time completely screwed...but wait it gets better, after its done and your car drives like its takin a left turn they will tell you its bearings or caster/camber, or balljoints or bushings, and pretty much any job they can do for a quick buck, but not limited to suspension, could be control valve or piston....then after spending 5 to 6 hundred bucks they will do the alignment properly, when all along you could have done it with a string and a couple long straight 2x4's.