1969 Gauges testing
I looked at several videos on-line for testing gauges but they don't exactly work for my application.....I have a 69 350/350 convertible. It has been disassembled for several years and I'm trying to get it together. Dash is out of car and disconnected. I need to know which gauges I need to purchase/repair.....all the faces look excellent ......green on black.
Fuel gauge: needle tight and if I move it it with my finger it will stay where I put it. I thought they should "float" and bounce back toward empty when disconnected. Water temp: needle tight and will slowly "float" back to center position around 210 when moved Clock: I hooked it up 12 v power to tab and grounded case....nothing Oil pressure: spring loaded toward 0 (probably OK) Battery: nice "wiggle" toward center (probably OK) Thanks for any links or help! |
this link is for testing a fuel gauge http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...el-gauge-test/
this link is for the water temp http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/c...gauge-testing/ clock you already know it's not working this link is for the oil pressure http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/o...ing-1974-1982/ this is for the ammeter https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...procedure.html |
Originally Posted by rangepony69
(Post 1595550314)
I looked at several videos on-line for testing gauges but they don't exactly work for my application.....I have a 69 350/350 convertible. It has been disassembled for several years and I'm trying to get it together. Dash is out of car and disconnected. I need to know which gauges I need to purchase/repair.....all the faces look excellent ......green on black.
Fuel gauge: needle tight and if I move it it with my finger it will stay where I put it. I thought they should "float" and bounce back toward empty when disconnected. Water temp: needle tight and will slowly "float" back to center position around 210 when moved Clock: I hooked it up 12 v power to tab and grounded case....nothing Oil pressure: spring loaded toward 0 (probably OK) Battery: nice "wiggle" toward center (probably OK) Thanks for any links or help! A gauge without any ohms input will go to the best of the world... A fuel gauge will go past full, a temp gauge will go to cool... Then when you ground out the ohms stud they'll go opposite.. Empty and Hot... :thumbs: Willcox |
If I power everything up on the bench is everything 12volts? I like to use a battery charger when I'm testing things but do I need to reduce voltage?
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Originally Posted by rangepony69
(Post 1595550927)
If I power everything up on the bench is everything 12volts? I like to use a battery charger when I'm testing things but do I need to reduce voltage?
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A battery charger puts out 'chopped' DC voltage. It is meant to be used with a battery...and the battery stabilizes the voltage. The charger alone may do more damage than good; and it could send out several amps to some low-current meters (if not wired properly or defective gauge). Not a good idea.
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Clock. Here is a piece on clock repair. You will likely find that the contacts do not align. They NEVER did. Use a diamond file to clean them. Not Emory or sand paper.
http://pcfred.com/Vettetip/FixC3Clock.htm |
Originally Posted by NRAROX
(Post 1595554315)
Clock. Here is a piece on clock repair. You will likely find that the contacts do not align. They NEVER did. Use a diamond file to clean them. Not Emory or sand paper.
http://pcfred.com/Vettetip/FixC3Clock.htm Thanks.....I've done alot of clocks on other cars, I just have to figure out how to crack into the case..... |
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
(Post 1595553618)
A battery charger puts out 'chopped' DC voltage. It is meant to be used with a battery...and the battery stabilizes the voltage. The charger alone may do more damage than good; and it could send out several amps to some low-current meters (if not wired properly or defective gauge). Not a good idea.
Sounds like everything is 12v.....I guess I could use a battery.....any leads on where and what size pot to buy? |
Not sure what you mean by pot...i trim pot? Like a variable resistor? I would use an analog house lights dimmer....not sure if it would work but at least it could handle power from a car battery. In order to select the correct trim pot you would need to know the wattage of the devices you would be testing...a local electronics hobby shop should habe them up to 1 watt fairly cheap...which should suffice...but im not sure. Each sending unit that sends its signals to the gauges is usually from 1k to 10k i believe so a 1 watt, 10k pot may work just for a quick test.
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Originally Posted by san
(Post 1595554875)
Not sure what you mean by pot...i trim pot? Like a variable resistor? I would use an analog house lights dimmer....not sure if it would work but at least it could handle power from a car battery. In order to select the correct trim pot you would need to know the wattage of the devices you would be testing...a local electronics hobby shop should habe them up to 1 watt fairly cheap...which should suffice...but im not sure. Each sending unit that sends its signals to the gauges is usually from 1k to 10k i believe so a 1 watt, 10k pot may work just for a quick test.
Use a 12 volt power supply, not a battery charger... or use a wire off the back of the alternator. Your just testing gauges so nothing bad will happen. The fuel gauge is 0 ohms is empty, 90 ohms is full. The temperature gauge expected inputs is shown in the picture below. http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...ge-testing.jpg http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...s-1024x567.jpg |
Clock: cracking into the case? Pliers turning three bent prongs. I think it was designed to be opened about twice, despite the one year service schedule.
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Originally Posted by NRAROX
(Post 1595554315)
Clock. Here is a piece on clock repair. You will likely find that the contacts do not align. They NEVER did. Use a diamond file to clean them. Not Emory or sand paper.
http://pcfred.com/Vettetip/FixC3Clock.htm The faces are where you can run into issues when you build/repair the clocks. If the tangs break off you can epoxy them back on the clock when completed but I would test the movement (and the accuracy) before doing that. Willcox |
Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
(Post 1595560809)
...you can speed up the clock or slow it down by rotating it 12 hours forward or backwards. Forward speeds it up, backwards slows it down.
Willcox Thanks, Rich |
Originally Posted by 68sbShark
(Post 1595564036)
Can you elaborate on this? I gave my clock a once over using the above mentioned page as reference, and it now works....just does not keep accurate time.
Thanks, Rich Willcox |
Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
(Post 1595564074)
On the old Borg movements (factory installed 1963-1981), if you turn the hands backwards 12 hours.. it will slow the clock down, if you turn them forward 12 hours it will speed it up... You do this with the adjustment stem .
Willcox |
Originally Posted by 68sbShark
(Post 1595564390)
Huh....who knew....except for you obviously. This will be my winter project. Getting the clock to maintain proper time. :lol:
Ernie |
That clock is self-correcting...IF you follow the right procedure for doing so.
Once you have the clock powered up, you set the correct time on it. You also note the actual time when you made that adjustment. Wait 24 hours [+/- a few minutes] and correct the clock's time by adjusting it in the "nearest" direction. (If it is 15 minutes 'slow', turn it CW; if it is 15 minutes 'fast', turn it CCW.) Make this adjustment on consecutive days...only once per day at about the same time of day...and the clock will be on-time and accurate after no more than 3 days. Note: The 'rate' of the self-correction depends on the adjustments being made once-daily at 24 hour increments. |
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