AIR CONDITIONING rebuild
 

First, i don't know anything about air conditioning. I am doing a frame off restoration of a 1970,350,corvette convertible. So i see kits that cost 1450.00 for cars with factory air or should i replace various parts?
So, again which part should be replaced? Then which refrigerants to use ?
Thanks
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I'm doing a resto/mod on my 73 and plan to just spend the $1,400.00 for a complete Vintage Air system. I'll have a smaller lighter compressor, the big box on the firewall will be gone and everything in the system will be new and worry free for years. I believe its a better option than trying to repair the old system that takes up so much room under the hood and doesn't flow or cool like the new Vintage Air system will. Plus my wife supports this decision. Just my .02 cents.

If you stay with stock, I would recommend the compressor, expansion valve, receiver/dryer, and evaporator. Also replace all the o rings. Check the condition of the pressure and suction hoses. Look over the condensor for damage.
Use R12 if available where you live, or convert to R134 as you have everything apart, it probably just won't blow as cold but will be easier to service in the future.

Only what needs to be replaced. Was the system working when you took it out? Have you tested what you have to check for possible problems? No disrespect, but why throw money at replacement parts until you know what you need?
:thumbs:

The system and car was not running when i acquired it. I don't know of any check's to perform.

I spent less than $400.00 doing an entire system myself.

Need to borrow a vacuum pump and gauges if you don't have them.

It was intimidating the first time, but I had to do it twice and the second time was easier. To the point that I thought I missed something.

The only things I re-used were the lines and hoses. If I was doing a Corvette, I'd buy those too.

colo69
My opinion, I think its cool to fix ac on a car that came with ac like my 69. R12 is NOT hard to find and if you do things right you only need to come up with 4 pounds.
First, that A6 compressor is a great machine. Mine had not been run in 40 years. I bought a new seal kit including the new, modern shaft seal. Utube vid out there will tell you how to do it. If the compressor is compressing,(hold finger over discharge side, if you feel pressure it still works.). You can buy a brand new one for $399. Its good enough to still be manufactured.
Definitely a new drier and expansion valve. Your poa valve looks a little rough, id sent it to that place in Florida that cleans them. Mine was fine (I took a chance.). Since the evaporator is out you can take it to be pressure tested. Mine was fine (I took another chance.). Would get a new evaporator if it was out of the car.
I spent $65 with Zip on drier, $60 with Old Air for expansion valve, and $40 for compressor rebuild kit and $100 for R12. Plus new o-rings on every fitting I could reach without removing hood. Works great, no leaks!!
Great using the factory ac with original console controls tooling around town or on the highway.
PM me when you get ready and I will help you with any problems.
VERYSOON

Agree!
 

Agree and good advice IMHO!:iagree:

Price it out both ways and see what you get. Restore costs I think will be close to a new VA system. VA is a modern system that works great and has a warranty. You can buy a vacuum pump and gauges from HF and install the whole system and charge it yourself with 134 from your local Auto Zone which is what I did:thumbs:.

(and if the wife thinks this is the way to go, well then, not much more to think about here!)

I would absolutely get the stock system working before going with a Vintage Air or other aftermarket system.

I have a Classic Auto Air setup in a 72 Buick that works okay, but it has its issues. The system is slow to respond to temperature changes, since its electronic. The air routing on some setups (like the one I have) combines the routing of the heater and defrost ducts, so there's not adequate airflow to either when really needed.

Lastly, both VA and CLA only recirculate inside air, so the AC must be engaged to prevent fogging when warning the car. On the CLA setup, the AC compressor is on when the air outlet is set to heater/defrost, or when the temperature is set all the way to cold. So, to get semi cool (not freezing) air out of the dash vents is not possible. Since it recirculates air, the coldest it will get without engaging the compressor is what the interior temperature already is (and will probably fog up the windows). To engage the compressor, the temp must be all the way to cold, which can be too cold.

The stock AC on my 79 Vette and 75 Vette both work great and are running R134 without issue.

Thank you