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105k and done. My LS 1 ate it.
6 Attachment(s)
So I have poured a ton of money into this car lately. Even after all new gaskets and seals it was dripping. Replaced the PCV assembly and it improved but didn’t completely cure it. It has a brand new rear main seal. Still dripping. Had them do a leak down test. #1 cylinder at 80% loss. Pics attached. I’m stunned. Never abused it. Never beat on it cold. Religious with oil changes. You can see inside the engine is spotless. Bottom line I love the car. It’s clean. It’s pretty. It’s something dad and I enjoyed together. Since I buried him 2 weeks ago that seems even more important. So I am trying to look at this as an opportunity instead of a problem. So with 105k I’m going to go the rebuild route. Maybe a better cam and some head work. May need to bore so pistons. So I’m up for suggestions. Wouldn’t mind more power but reliability and cost are factors.
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Swap in an LS3 . It’s not that hard. Most bang for the buck. There are several vendors that sell low mile used LS3’s here and on the auction site.
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Dump it and move on
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Originally Posted by Allieboy
Dump it and move on
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Originally Posted by Sids04
Swap in an LS3 . It’s not that hard. Most bang for the buck. There are several vendors that sell low mile used LS3’s here and on the auction site.
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wanna buy a low mile LS6 w/forged internals? needs an intake, new knock sensor plate and some accessories but otherwise good to go...even has a fairly new LS7 clutch
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Check with Forum vendor VetteNutts for a replacement LS1:
http://www.vettenuts.net/index.php?l=product_list&c=3 |
Originally Posted by pewter99
wanna buy a low mile LS6 w/forged internals? needs an intake, new knock sensor plate and some accessories but otherwise good to go...even has a fairly new LS7 clutch
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I rebuilt mine last year. If I had to do it over I may have gone with a stroaker LS2 or 3 if naturally aspirated or forged internals for FE.
You need to think about your future goals and budget. |
Originally Posted by Mike98SilVert
Check with Forum vendor VetteNutts for a replacement LS1:
http://www.vettenuts.net/index.php?l=product_list&c=3 |
Originally Posted by Rob 02
I rebuilt mine last year. If I had to do it over I may have gone with a stroaker LS2 or 3 if naturally aspirated or forged internals for FE.
You need to think about your future goals and budget. I already have the McLeod twin disk and flywheel and the Zip 4.10 rear end. I know the drivetrain will handle whatever I do but I wasn’t planning on this right now. Oh well. |
Originally Posted by Nyt_Muves
(Post 1595791921)
Very possibly. What does it take to swap in? Where is it? I’m happy to pick it up but I’m in phoenix.
If its something you want to consider we can discuss some numbers and find out about shipping I was running a Maggie MP112 on this and sold it separately... motor has about 14K on it before I decided to part the car. Ran and drove perfectly up till the day it was pulled. It is currently setting on a pallet at Powertech Performance in St. Pete FL where it was built, installed and subsequently removed. Joe the owner at Powertech built this motor and could answer any questions I cannot. here is what was done / installed per my receipt in no particular order New GM LS6 block Bore and hone block Balance complete rotating assy-crank-rods-pistons-flywheel-damper Clevite main bearing Clevite rod bearings OEM LS7 lifter set High volume oil pump Complete engine gasket set Katech C5R timing chain set ARP cylinder head stud kit 243 heads Eagle forged steel crankshaft Wiseco forged alum pistons with rings, pins, locks Eagle forged H-beam connecting rods w/ARP bolts Patriot Gold Valve Springs Titanium Retainers – Viton Seals Coolant Temp sending unit Oil pressure sending unit OEM crankshaft damper bolt OEM lifter guide plates NGK TR6 plugs ECS blower cam INT EXH 273 279 at .050 224 230 LSA 114 valve lift .581 .592 9.5 : 1 comp ratio |
Originally Posted by pewter99
It was in my 99, parting out my car, it is currently sitting on a pallet at the shop where I had it removed, same shop that built it. Probably a few hundred to get it shipped to AZ from FL.
If its something you want to consider we can discuss some numbers and find out about shipping I was running a Maggie MP112 on this and sold it separately... motor has about 14K on it before I decided to part the car. Ran and drove perfectly up till the day it was pulled. It is currently setting on a pallet at Powertech Performance in St. Pete FL where it was built, installed and subsequently removed. Joe the owner at Powertech built this motor and could answer any questions I cannot. here is what was done / installed per my receipt in no particular order New GM LS6 block Bore and hone block Balance complete rotating assy-crank-rods-pistons-flywheel-damper Clevite main bearing Clevite rod bearings OEM LS7 lifter set High volume oil pump Complete engine gasket set Katech C5R timing chain set ARP cylinder head stud kit 243 heads Eagle forged steel crankshaft Wiseco forged alum pistons with rings, pins, locks Eagle forged H-beam connecting rods w/ARP bolts Patriot Gold Valve Springs Titanium Retainers – Viton Seals Coolant Temp sending unit Oil pressure sending unit OEM crankshaft damper bolt OEM lifter guide plates NGK TR6 plugs ECS blower cam INT EXH 273 279 at .050 224 230 LSA 114 valve lift .581 .592 9.5 : 1 comp ratio |
Originally Posted by Nyt_Muves
(Post 1595791943)
Daily driver. Occasional track day. I was shocked it had this issue at all. I was usually really easy on it and all I had heard for years was how durable these engines are. Still idles smooth. Runs great. The dripping rear main was the only sign of trouble.
I already have the McLeod twin disk and flywheel and the Zip 4.10 rear end. I know the drivetrain will handle whatever I do but I wasn’t planning on this right now. Oh well. |
Originally Posted by Nyt_Muves
(Post 1595791943)
t I wasn’t planning on this right now. Oh well.
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Originally Posted by Nyt_Muves
(Post 1595791976)
Trying to PM you
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I've got almost the identical cam that's in Pewters engine and I love it. Perfect amount of rumble and much stronger than stock LS6.
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I cant tell from your pics but what happened? Did one of the roller lifters fail?
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105k is way premature. I would want to factor out any possible causes that might end up in the new engine.
Mine had a bent connecting rod due to hydro-locking. The rest of the engine was rebuildable. I ended up going with 799 heads and LS6 cam and some mild mods. I know that is too mild for most track guys but I drive it on the street. The above forged engine would be a good candidate if you ever think you might want FE or nitrus. |
Originally Posted by blackzo6
I cant tell from your pics but what happened? Did one of the roller lifters fail?
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