Has anyone tried ebay longtube headers less than $300?
 

Can't justify spending over $1k on just headers; has anyone tried headers from various sellers/manufacturers on ebay, and if so, can comment on the quality and performance gains?

Examples:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...rt=nc&LH_BIN=1

I just bought these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Long-Tube-1...VXdUdi&vxp=mtr

They are arriving tomorrow and I'll install over the next few days. I am going to be using OEM GM gaskets as most seem to think they are the best. I'm also budgeting to replace the hardware that comes with the kit.

I'll update this thread with my comments. It seems like alot of the name-brand header / xpipe systems have fitment issues sporadically, so it it will be interesting to see how it goes.

I'm with you guys. Back in the day you got a set of Black Jacks for 99 bucks on sale. If you were serious, a set of Hookers for 250.00. A grand for headers? I just don't get it. I guess they're fantastic and all but still.

These are on Amazon for 250 shipped

Flash back; wow! Thanks for the memory, totally forgot about Black Jack headers... pretty sure I installed those in my '69 XR7.

what ever brand you choose make sure they fit snug up in the tunnel and don't hang down, you are sure to dent them up which will compromise exhaust flow ...

Yeah I bought headers for a couple hundred bucks back in 1978, when gas was .50/gallon. You do realize that was almost 40 years ago?


I would personally steer clear of 300.00 headers in 2018.


But hey, that's just me.........




Shakey

You didn't have to remind me on how long ago that was. Thanks! :willy:


I'll be anxious to hear the reviews of the $300 ebay parts.

The dented header will cause very little impact if any . Check out enginemasters on you tube. They tested this out.

Headers get a Corvette tax like nobody's business, especially when you consider that many of the name brand headers for other applications such as GM F-bodies with LS are hundreds upon hundreds of dollars less in most every single case. It doesn't make any sense whatsoever that name brand header options for an LS Corvette are +$1,000 even in 2017 when the EXACT same name brands are throwing the same engine family headers for four figures. Sorry not sorry.

Same goes for the $1,200-$1,400 cat backs.

:iagree: love my XS Power Headers !!!!(less than 800)

Biggest junk on the market. Buyers Beware. They may have been good a few years back, but the newer batches are absolute garbage. There is an entire thread here where people got screwed from buying XS power headers, including myself. I ended up being out over $800 on install labour after the shop couldn't get them to install as they wouldn't fit. The vendor refunded my purchase price but not the install labour I lost.

The latest XS power headers do not fit.

Pounder, stop recommending these headers, be a little more clear that you got yours a few years back. I have mentioned this to you before. You might love YOUR older XS Power headers, but the current ones are made with a different jig in a different factory and they are complete crap for fitment. I have told you this before also, and you still post how great these headers are. Maybe you haven't lost $1000 on a crappy product before, but I have and so have other members here. The more you bang the drum on how great your headers are the more likely people are to wind up getting ripped off like I did.

I don't know about you but I do not support manufacturers or vendors that sell products that end up ripping people off.

OP I spent up a small amount with TPS Motorsports, and got a set of LG headers for about a grand. They practically installed themselves they are so well made.

the thread is about high priced headers, I gave my experience, according to Huron speed they have been corrected ??? with everything you have to do your research !!! (my experience with TPS was not good)

I've had a member contact me who purchased recently and his headers do not fit. Absolutely outrageous. He is also out hundreds in install labour.

I went with Hinson headers after I saw all the prob's with the XS power stuff. I had no problems with them

I have a set of the EBay headers. I had it install close to a year now, I have no issue with the headers. The fit and finish is good and once I had it tuned correctly I can feel a few more ponies under my seat. LOL

I even had the EBay X-pipe on as well. No problem at all.

Saved me a lots of Corvette tax

It's just like recommending anything...for example, I've personally had a bad experience with Ecklers, and if asked, I will not recommend them, but many on this forum have had no issues with them, but I don't expect them to stop giving their point of view. There are good and bad experiences with most products and companies, you just have to do your research and do what works for you and your budget.

My two eBay exhaust stories:

-Bought a downpipe for my '04 VW GLI, fitment was perfect. Unfortunately, after about a year the weld at the flange that bolted on to the turbo broke off causing my exhaust to exit the turbo and blow right on to my firewall. The fire proofing on my firewall actually caught on fire, luckily i was able to put it out before it caused any real damage.

-Bought a catback for my 350z. Fitment was horrible, tips were crooked, rubbed on the dif, sounded absolutely horrendous, etc. Nothing serious, but always regret even buying it...should have kept the stock exhaust on.

So basically, I've learned its worth the extra money to buy a quality product. If you don't want to spend $1500 on a header/xpipe set up watch for used deals. I picked up a set of kooks headers and x pipe for under $600 shipped a couple months ago.

There's a link above to a header x pipe system that is the same as what I order. It has 2 resonators but doesn't seem to include the middle section that connects to the x pipe. I'm not too bothered by this as I can source the appropriate tubing, but I'll update my post with what I find during installation.

Do what you want with your own car...BUT... you get what you pay for, a good set of quality headers will be $1,000, like it or not

I did a write up a couple few years ago on thd OBX headers that I got for $650 new, and I STILL love them. They were also some of the nicest headers I ever dealt with, in terms of welding quality.

No need to take anything off to install, they only hang down just a tiny bit on the pass side (middle of my car contacts stuff before the headers anyways), they sound good, make good power, and are over $1000 cheaper than the American made stuff. The brackets to tie them to the torque tube bellhousing in the front don't line up at all, but they don't rattle. Bolts are still tight to this day, and never retightened, only checled to make sure they were still tight. Good for getting to your plugs too.

If you have money to literally blow on Gucci headers, then right on, more power to ya...but not really, maybe only a couple more horsepower, but is that really worth $1000??? You can slap a FAST on there for that price, and make another 15 wheel horse lol.

My rule of thumb has always been, if you're paying a shop to install. Buy the best part on the market.

If you wrench on your own shit, then you get to enjoy the cheaper parts/labor of used parts, ebay parts, and the like.

My ebay exhaust tips were crooked, hangers needed to be moved to my liking and I ended up cutting the tips off for corsa style ones anyhow. Extra hour of MY time, maybe be 5+ hours of shop time, which might not make it worth it.

For stuff like exhaust, it's steel tube and in no way warrants the fucking ridiculous price tag towards the corvette market. Quality headers for every other brand are in the ~$600 range. Even if it's "made" in the US it's still chinese steel.

Not off to a great start, exhaust arrived today in a mangled box with terrible packaging. It appears they laid everything in a bare cardboard box then dropped paper on top. As a result, the contents had broken though im a couple of areas. No damage was apparent and all the listed parts were included. As I suspected, the middle pipes joining the resonators to the x pipe were not present . Will updated in a few days when I begin the install.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c924cbbffc.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0a459181f1.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b07618b987.jpg

Personally, I would box all that s*&t up (in a better box) and send it right back. This is probably indicative of QC in other areas of manufacture as well.


Shakey

I'm going to bring everything over to a buddy who is a expert fabricator and machinist. If everything looks straight, and he feels the welds are good, then I will go ahead with the install. My primary concern is making sure the manifolds are flat where they mount to the heads. The flange material looks very thick so I'd be surprised if its damaged.

Maybe Kooks is spending $500 on packaging. Don't give up yet! Lets see how they fit and sound.

which set did you get?

I am looking at these...

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d8d0e63f00.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Corve...719375?vxp=mtr

but wondering if they have to have an exhaust shop make the parts between the collector & the x-pipe like the guy up top said about his amazon set.


It's sad, I had a set of hooker headers made at Holley several years ago for my LS nissan 240sx. Even having to eat the cost of R&D it was only $600 for long tube ceramic coated headers specifically for the LS1 into my 1990 chassis.

It's just cardboard, those headers will go through more abuse installed on your car. Check the flanges with a straight edge and install.

I'm interested to see how they fit.

I have the exact sam set that you are thinking about. Just have a muffler shop installed it and cut you a couple of piece of pipes for connecting the collector and the X-pipe. It'll be fine.

May need to get a couple of O2 sensor extensions so the Aft O2s can reach the connector for the Front O2's near the firewall.

May also need a tune to tune out the back O2s and get a little bit of kick after the tune along the way.

You will like the sound, it is awesome. After the install no-one can tell that it is a $1000 meg buck header or a Ebay everyday Joe header. :thumbs:

BTW my box looks worst than yours and everything was O.K. no damage done.

G/L. :thumbs:

The set pictured is exactly what I purchased. I hope to at least document how the mid pipes fit, and the sizes needed so someone else can use the info if they choose not to have a shop install them.

IIRC even ou have the collectors mounted and you will still be 18" & 16" short from the X-pipe. They are 2.75" pipes? I had that done and mounted about a year ago. So I don't remember exactly the length and size. But that is about right. What I did was to make sure that The car will pass inspection I went ahead and add two high flow cat after the collectors.

Unless you have a welding machine and the knowledge of welding, the shop going to have to finish it. Even I did all the other install myself.

The shop here charged me $150 so I am still a lot better than paying a heavy Corvette tax.

:rock:

I'm interested to see dyno results for these.

I personally hope to see the XS power headers make a comeback with their old quality. Mine have been great, and Jon is a stand up guy.

As for the eBay headers and texas speed headers, I don't like the fact that they hang down even slightly. If my XS powers had, I would have sent them back. May not bother some, but it drives me nuts, and I've heard my friend's trans am scrape his texas speeds a lot. Good luck either way, let us know how the install goes.

I was chastised for saying I liked my XS Power headers on this thread, So I e-mailed Jon at Huron Speed and he replied, "we have had great success with them and also always tweaking to continue to improve where possible!"

So far I've been chastised for my ebay exhaust, over seas wheels, brakes, not paying someone to build my LS7 and for saying I wash my car at the coin op.

​​​After being around here for a while I now take those things as compliments. It's a plastic car, not some 1 of 1 1916 Bugatti

"It's a plastic car" a hint of Fisher Price eh? -- and here I've been making 'vroom' 'vroom' sounds lately while working of seats and what not.
Works for me!

The cheapest I'd go are with the SLP headers, or Texas Speed. They are both good options for the price. I think the Texas Speed ones are right around $1k with cats and a mid pipe.

Go Here: Texas Speed

Everybody panel is either urethane or fiber glass, interior, plastic, the "plastic fantastic" nick name holds well.

I think I have dyno sheets un my write up, let me find it, I'll post it here....

Here ya go :rock: my tuner's dyno is real stingy, but with only a cheap $50 ram horn twin cone intake (stock piece broke, so I was compromising) and the OBX headers, I went from 273whp base line, to 319whp tuned.

The car now has a Callaway Honker intake, and Corsa Extremes out back. I noticed quite a notable jump all over the RPM range when I went to the Honker, but never retuned (waiting to do more engine work first), so I'm sure it has broken the 320 range.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ll-review.html

I'm pleased with my XS Power headers. I bought them 3 years ago, and I've had them on and off the car a few times now with no issues. I just had to dimple the primary for steering shaft clearance, but it was really minor and seems to apply to most headers. Car put down 440 whp with heads and cam through these headers...I'm not sure what I gave up by going "cheap".

What was your cam specs? Heads? 440whp is real stout, C6 Z06's make around 430 to 440 whp, and the LS7 in those is 500 BHP, which is what I am personally after :D

Car is an '03 6MT coupe...

Livernois Stage 3 243 heads (CNC'd, milled slightly, larger valves)
GM MLS gaskets
BTR Stage 2 cam 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2
Stock LS6 intake manifold and TB
XS Power LT Headers with Catted x-pipe
Blackwing Intake


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...716f95f6bd.jpg

I think a lot of the magic is in the heads. They're Livernois craziest, and they flow like mad up top. The car is actually pretty tame below 4k rpm, but when it winds up, it's frantic. Almost scary. Combined with 4.10 gears, it's bonkers.

I've driven C5 and C6 Z06's, along with LT1 C7's. My car has a completely different character. None pull like mine up top.

Though, if I could do it over again, I might have picked a slightly smaller cam like a Cam Motion Titan 3 (224/228 .603"/.595" 113+4) to shift the power band a bit lower. I would have given up some of the top end, but gained in the bottom. It's fun to watch people's reaction when I tell them the dyno number, and the thing screams, but I'd like the power to be a bit more usable.

HP is not where the 4" stroke really shines.

It is not hard at all to crack 450whp from a 346. 400whp can be made with bolt on's and JUST heads; I have seen it done by AI.

I guess I really just don't understand the curious way you worded your sentence. I can't figure out what you are trying to convey.

440rwhp in a 3.6" stroke will not drive anything like 440rwhp with a 4" stroke. Even if all parts remained the same.

it's called torque :yesnod::yesnod::yesnod:

Totally.

The power is there, but it's more up high. Which is fun in it's own right...more sportscarey. That's where the more aggressive gears make up a lot of the difference.

Honestly, my "tiny" 5.7 with decent engine parts, rear gears and cheap chinese headers (brining the thread back on track!) has more character than anything with more displacement. I love my car.

Ah, I get ya now. That is all well and good, but I'm not gonna go outta my way to drop $7500+ for an LS3 when I can put $3800 in my LS1, make notably more power, and build for reliability. I am aware that the seriously competitive race cars all eventually go big inch motor, but I don't have the scratch yet :/

I would love to drop a 515 horse crate LS3 in my vette, then swap out the inline 6 in my jeep for the LS1 in the vette :smash: but that is a few years down the road I think :lol:

Plenty of L92 setups going in the 3k range, I'd rather spend on that than an LS1 and I built my LS7 for a ton less than 7500. Now if you have to pay someone to build it, that's a different story.

Wow.....how bout Cyclones? Tighten the bolt you could watch that flange bend in front of you :lol:

A ding in the header wont hurt anything; if you double up a towel, lay a BIG socket on its side and, with a bfh strike it at a slight angle you can make clearance where its hardly noticeabe. Better than the end of a ball peen hammer (looks wise):cheers:

Keep us posted! China makes good and bad stuff
Think vette exh is a ripoff myself

http://s2.quickmeme.com/img/ba/bad3e...15b68f3862.jpg

I would REALLY like to find out how you pulled off a built LS7 under $7500. That is half the price of a crate engine.

It's gonna cost me almost 4k just in parts alone to build my ls1 for a track reliable 430 wheel. I am not just doing heads and a cam. I'm putting an ATI damper in it (another $450 alone) as well as better lifters, 3/8" pushrods, a fixed belt tensioner, better water pump, Melling oil pump, a split timing case, C5R timing chain, ARP hardware for the crank and heads, and a Straub rocker bearing upgrade, all for the sake of reliability, and yes I do my own labor. I can't imagine it would be worth my while to buy an LS7 or L92 block, and build it up myself. The cost/perfromance benefit is just not there for me. Not when I have a perfectly capable engine already in the car.

A new LS7 block is over $3200 alone, and good condition pull outs are still over $10,000. PLUS, I would still have to replace the heads on it for fear of dropping a valve on the track, so tack on some more fkr that as well. At that point, I will have spent more on my powertrain, than what I spent on the car, and that just doesn't make any logical sense to me.

You can probably build an "LS7" out of an L92 somehow. But there's no way it's happening for under $10k. $7k is fantasyland unless you steal all the parts or something.

$4k for an LS1 build is very realistic. I got my heads on craigslist, and still spent nearly $4k on everything (heads, cam, oil pump, injectors, etc ,etc, etc). You don't want to cut corners, especially if the car's going to see track time.

Exactly how I dimpled my XS Power header for steering shaft clearance. You can't even see it when installed in the car. The towels+Socket+BFH work perfect. And clearly performance wasn't hindered. I think my biggest worry of some of the eBay stuff is quality of the stainless. I've seen cheap "stainless" look pretty rusty after a year or so. :ack:

Stainless is corrosion resistant, not corrosion proof, and even quality stainless has to be properly passivated to perform well. Working the surface with the wrong tools, such as a plain wire brush or grinder, can leave bits of corrosion prone iron in the surface to act as a point of propagation.

This guy /\ yep, I use brass brushes on a grinder to clean up stainless, and Ti.

If I let all my secrets go everyone would do it.

I don't know where you get all that pricing from but when you overpay for parts of course you budget will be out of control.
Your fantasy land is my reality I guess then. It's not an L92 I called an LS7, it's an LS7 built with a new LS3 block using factory GM LS7 internals.

Cheaping out and building to a goal level is different, I won't be running pro stock so there's no need to build a $50K engine.

How did this got from "let's talk about inexpensive header alternatives" to "lets have a pissing match over who has the better engine" :toetap:

Seems to happen a lot here. I'm partially to blame. If anyone wants to keep up the argument you can go over to my build thread and comment there.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c3c183e50b.jpgDriver's side flange
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5ed1d224ad.jpgPassenger side flange
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...bb2c69477f.jpgBox was a little beat up
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7c56b7d95f.jpgBoth headers
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9afcf93ae6.jpgAll pts in box
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...990c2fdeda.jpg
I will lookover everything this weekend. Probably be a week or two before I begin install. Trying to figure out what I will need for install. These are the headers I posted on the first page from Amazon

Looking forward to seeing them installed and getting feedback. I'm currently planning to pick up a set of Kooks, but I'd love to find a less expensive alternative. My goals for this vehicle are (at most) a 224/224 cam (~380-400rwhp).

With that sort of duration are you attempting to pass smog?

AZ is OBD2 only, no smog test.

Man I'm jealous, I get the rollers and full glove treatment.

Any gasoline vehicle 1996 or newer just gets an OBD2 port test and they don't even open the hood.

What is part numbers for the exhaust gaskets for the ls1 motor and what brand should I look for. What about the small flange for the air pump flanges. Is there a different part number for the small gaskets.

For the cylinder head exhaust flange, get the factory style metal gaskets (I'd vote OEM GM gaskets). DO NOT use the cheap Felpro/paper style gaskets, they leak.

For the air pump flanges, just go to napa/O'Reilly/etc. When I deleted (caped) my air pump flanges, I used Felpro gaskets from O'Reilly.

I bought 12576221 and they were too small for my ported heads. My XS Power headers came with larger MLS gaskets, so I just used those and they were fine.

I'd probably give 12617944 a try.

Reuse the air pump gaskets unless they're shot.

Also, I highly recommend considering header studs. They make buttoning up the job unbelievably easier. I bought some stainless ones on eBay that worked great. They don't take a ton of torque, so you don't have to go nuts.

Can you install the headers with the studs already in the head? On my 01 Z28, I tried to use studs but they prevented installing the headers (had to install the headers, then put the studs in like bolts, which defeated the purpose of studs).

Yep, I did on my 03 C5. Worked great. So much easier to hang the headers with the studs already there. If I remember correctly, I had to remove the driver side rear one to get the header in. Then I let the header down and screwed in the stud then hung the header.

Good to know! :thumbs:

:lurk:

Some more pictures. I did not get slot of time this weekend but I went out and took a few pictures. If you all want to see something let me know.https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6d5e70dba1.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...595d82c10a.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d5d60fd52d.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...984d2d15fa.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...300484485d.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1d0229bb89.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...bc0b553f82.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2b64df0e0d.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d384ea663f.jpg

Nope, I bought Kooks & didn't have to "dimple" anything, nor should you have to, maybe that's why they cost more

Headers contain $20 worth of raw metal. The rest is machining and the corvette tax. $1000+ for headers sounds like racketeering.

Bingo, I know the head of Engineering at Doug Thorley and when he does custom headers on anything it's usually $800-1000 all said and ceramic coated. Once the jig is made there's no reason for them to cost that much.

Question: In the picture the tape measure seems to indicate the primaries are 1-5/8", not 1-3/4". Please confirm.

The pic is showing the ID, tubing is measured by OD. Add 1/16" per wall (standard exhaust tube wall thickness) = 1 3/4"

Got it. Thanks.

Cool. Double the price to avoid a bit of :smash: . Definitely worth it.

Well I got started last night. I started on driver's side. And it fit without a whole lot of hassle. It definitely has to go in from the bottom. I removed the steering shaft. To try and make as much room as possible. I will be leaving everything loose till I get both sides installed. Now for the pics so far.https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6e286a4116.jpgView from rear.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5e5ba3821c.jpgThe factory tab is almost in the right place. But not quite.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7373294d5d.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8aa6efd2c3.jpgView from top before steering shaft is put back in.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0016583680.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7f3afe287c.jpgSteering shaft back in.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...41af68f723.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9fb7ecfcea.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c9dc561eff.jpg

Wow, driver's side has plenty of space! Curious to see the passenger side now...that's a bit tighter.

You could easily make a strap (attached either by bolt or welded) to the tab and get it to connect to the factory support.

I made one booboo. When I ordered my gaskets, I also ordered a new oil temp sensor, and coolant temp sensor. I forgot to order my O2 extensions. Dammit!!!

Be careful under there... in the pic it appears that a floor jack is supporting the car on a piece of wood, you are using jack stands, right? Just a comment ( no flame meant ) when I bought my Kooks, the O2 sensor extensions, gaskets, & header bolts came with it, just sayin

Yes I am using jack stands. The floor jack is there to take weight off the front end. I have the front tires on ramps, and I can get a couple extra inches just taking the weight off a little. The headers came with gaskets, but I wanted to use the Chevy performance gaskets, and doing some maintenance while it is apart. They came with bolts as well.

I started disassembly of the passenger side. But this 47 yr old ran out of gas today. Did not want to crawl under anymore today. Will get back at it tomorrow hopefully, as long as work leaves me alone. But manifold us unbolted, plugs out, tomorrow starter out of the way.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ab22886a87.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a9f252fb72.jpgAll recovered and retaped up.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...929e24b69f.jpgFound some wiring issues once starter was removed.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c2ad629949.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...984f351621.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a32a40ccc9.jpg
The biggest pain in the whole job was having to hang the header down in the hole and put wires back on starter and remount it. Then fishing the dipstick back into place. Then I started threading the header bolts in and I drop one that I cannot find. So I am stuck for the time being. So I decided to come in take a break and make some posts.

I congratulate anyone who does a header install without the use of a lift :thumbs:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b8ca2d9984.jpgI did cut a hole in torque tube cover to give the O2 sensor some room. They will fit, but it was extremely tight. I thought it might make noise, so I cut the hole.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...86ca3f8aca.jpgThey do stick down about a 1/2 inch below the oil pan, but I am pleased with how they came out.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...819e08108f.jpg

I cut the hole in the torque tube cover, by drilling hole with 1/2 inch drill bit and cutting with jigsaw and metal cutting blade.

They still tuck right up there for the size, I doubt they scrape much, if ever.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a626249fe0.jpgX-pipe did bolt up to factory location.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2aa2429a52.jpgX-pipe also bolted right up to my Corsa sport axle back.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...30534b353f.jpgTwo pieces of 2 1/2 pipe. 14 1/2 inches long from resonators to x-pipe. Should I use clamps or just unbolt and get it welded.also used two 2 1/2 inch couplings on x-pipe
And if your curious I got a 6 ft stick of 2 1/2 pipe from local muffler shop for 20 bucks. I cut it with a battery powered sawzall with a metal blade. Cuts pipe like butter.
I got the two 2 1/2 inch couplings at O Reilly auto parts. They were on the shelf with the tail pipes.

The only clamps worth a damn will absolutely scrape on the ground, best to have it welded.