Installing new rotors, Should I buy new Caliper bolts?
 

Installing new rotors, Should I buy new Caliper bolts?

The dealer did not replace my bolts when replacing my rotors under warranty. In all the brake jobs I've done on previous cars with similar Brembo calipers I've never once replaced them either. I'll always just put a little high-temp copper anti-seize compound on the bolts them torque to spec (space permitting).

Yeah. I definitely wouldn't go buy what a dealership did. haha. If not replacing them, just check them (remove, inspect, clean, anti seize and install).


Edit: I thought you meant the pad (guide) pins. Why would you need to replace the bolts? :lol: OBVIOUSLY you don't want anti seize on the caliper bolts

If there was a safety risk to it GM would require it be done during a warranty job (for which the dealership would get paid). Dealers make money off warranty jobs, and in my experience, are eager to do so. My service advisor has always gone above & beyond for me.

I believe the C5 Service Manual may have said that new bolts were required to be used.

However, neither the C6 nor the C7 manuals say new bolts are needed.

I was reading my C7 manual a couple weeks ago and it says to simply clean the threads of the bolts and apply new thread locker when reinstalling them.

When you remove them you'll see a blue thread locker was used by the factory, so I use blue loctite.

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I have always re-used mine on other cars, these bolts will have thread lock all over them, I personally do not see the need unless there is damage to the bolt.

If they are not "Torque to yield" bolts, they can be reused with the appropriate thread locker. An inspection of the bolts looking for any cracks or damage should be done before reusing them.


Elmer

I've no history yet with my '16 Stingray, but with previous cars, I ran dedicated rotors/pads for track days only. Once the caliper bolts were removed, I would carefully chase the treads with the correct size tap and die, and reapply blue thread locker. Never had a problem.

I like your advice, this will be my plan!:thumbs:

I’ve had mine on and off 8 times already. 4 Track days, 9k miles. I personally am going to replace every 10 times, as I swap out rotors way to often. I’ve had zero issues so far. Please note, I’m not recommending this. Just sharing data.

This. If they are not torque to yeild why would you need to replace them?

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3238b9cafb.gif

Here's from the 2016 Service Manual.

The page below is about remounting the FRONT caliper, and cleaning the old Loctite off the bolts and the threads the bolts screw into. Then it says to apply fresh Loctite and let it cure, then screw in the bolt and torque it to 162 lb-ft:


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...42de59aef.jpeg



The page below is for remounting the REAR caliper, and curiously it doesn't have any info about cleaning the bolts or applying Loctite. It just says "Install the brake caliper bolts...and tighten to...89 lb-ft":

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c10530918.jpeg

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Thanks for all the input everyone! My torque wrench only goes to 150ft lbs~

Just a guess, but I don't think your wheel will fall off with 150lbs.

I had these off on my C6 a zillion times and I never made the bracket bolts that tight. Even 150 lbs is a lot of work. :)

Anti seize on the bolt? Tap an die to clean the threads? Glad you guys aren’t my mechanic. Lol

Blue thread locker, Loctite, or Permatex, or other, is the correct stuff.

And a thread chaser, not a tap is the correct tool.

you can take the bolt off without shearing it off. just turn it counter clockwise.

I can't believe I read right past the anti-seize posts....:toetap::lol:


Elmer

New rotors solved my issues, stops smoothly as it should now. PowerStop rotors look to be good quality, drilled, and clearly marked for L/R.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...273fc777b7.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e36e06d375.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2c6473851b.jpg

How are your new rotors performing ? :flag: