RWHP Sweet Spot
 

Would like to get opinions on what the optimal power level is for the C6 platform.

By sweet spot I mean, where does the C6 really shine? This would include traction, parts breaking, fun, etc.

As someone has pointed out, I am mostly speaking about street/straight line use. Not autocross.

Stock is just fine for me. You already can't safely use all of the power it has on the street, and that is where I use my car.

I have tweaked the timing tables and shifting slightly to my liking with HP Tuners. I may end up adding a Vararam one of these days but that's as far as I will take it.

I have to say cause I was really impressed with the car after the Vararam cold air intake ported throttle body, intake manifold ported with radius rods and while the intake was out I match ported the intake ports on the heads and headers I guarantee you'll be impressed too and still with a bone stock car absolutely same manners as factory, that's till you step on it.

'11 GS ls3

I'm the first (maybe only) one at <500 assuming NA.:D When you can't go WOT on the street without spinning or drive cross country without reliability concerns, it takes the fun away. Of course, FI on an otherwise stock engine to exceed 500 is a whole different ballgame.

My car is at 560rwhp on a mustang dyno with just the a&a ti kit. Its def a lot of power to have in the vette but my setup is mild compared to others.

Have you taken it to the track yet, I'm at 560 corrected whp but n-a on my stock block ls3 -I wonder how will they compare at the track.

LS3 stock block Trick flow 255cc heads low lash solid roller cam e85.

I haven't but you're probably faster being NA. The blower heats up after a few pulls and I don't have a methanol kit.

What model is your C6 and what did it baseline stock before mods on the mustang dyno?

Its just a regular base with the z51 package. A stock LS3/6 speed will dyno around 360rwhp on the mustang dyno that I use.

Just wondering because my tuner said I made 337rwhp on his mustang dyno winch I know it's just a tool but dang. I get it back Friday. Headers, Spinmonster Cam and tune. Have some other little goodies. He He. Oh yeah I'm a Grand Sport 6 speed

Depends on what you want and if you mind drag radials full time. 600-650rwhp on a true street tire and 750ish on a drag radial. Past that you only use it at specific race events and reliabilty and cost go out the window.

What Unreal said.

For those posting, I would appreciate if you included what type of car you have. z06 or base/gs.

Seems like somewhere between 500-700 is what I'm seeing.

After our talk I decided against my original goals with corvette. Just doesn't seem like the right car! I'm now leaning towards that 700-800 range. Seems like you can still hook at that level with a sticky drag radial, yet not be on the cusp of breaking stuff.

My shop says to keep them around 650 if you want it to last and 700-720 if you plan to build something else anyways down the road. I didn't vote because I have seen cars dyno 800 on one shops dyno and then mid 600's on another lol

If these is what you have in mind my suggestion is to change the pistons and get the correct rings and gap from the get-go this way you are looking at an extra week down time totally worth it imo.

It all starts feeling slow after a week anyways... lol

Sweet spot is different for everyone. Not everyone wants to put up with losing driveability due to cam or clutch, or having to worry about methanol.

Really, you just want to ask yourself what your goals are and then plan how you're going to do it. Do you want a 130mph trap? 140? Run 9s? etc

For those who are adrenaline obsessed or have a very high standard of "fast" I'm sure it becomes normal within months, agreed. Many members on this site are still scared of their stock cars though LOL, so I wouldn't say it always ends up feeling slow.

I want far more power, but have learned that the corvette isn't the car to do that with, so I'll get a different platform next purchase and push it further.

This thread has mutated from sweet spot to max effort real-QIK.

I guess all depends on how much reliability versus risk are you willing to tolerate.

Perhaps there are other worthy factors to consider like weight and complexity, working on an accessible and simple to work on car can be very satisfying is important to me this time around after previous full on supercharged and turbo builds.

T1 set up for road coarse with down force, right around 600hp is a well balance car between handling and HP.

Strip work, around 700HP, since once you get past this point, your going to need to upgrade parts on a large scale. and lets face it, even at 1K+ HP, it no longer a vet in the below body sense to get it to produce a 8 second 1/4 mile time.