Yes sir. Stock LT1 rods and crank. :)

Any idea what the labor for the install was on the pistons?

VR Pistons with stock rods and stock crank in my LT1... If i was doing it all over again, i would chang rods too... Nothing wrong with just pistons, but if i ever decide to push it even harder it would be there...
Not sure if anyone makes drop in rods and pistons...

I may be wrong but I thought i saw that Cunningham Motorsports is making a drop in piston and rod combo with a price tag around $2000-2500. I’m not sure where I remember seeing it though.

Zero. I did it all myself. :cheers:

Cunningham makes a drop in kit with pistons and rods but the only option for compression is to drop from 11.5:1 to 10.5:1.

Ant

Its about $4000.

Billy, Do you remove the engine to do the install??

It would be super difficult to do it with engine in... i don't think anyone would try to do it with engine in...

can't imagine it being done with the motor in, thats why im waiting to do mine for a couple years then ill really turn the boost up :D

I have a stage 2 Edelbrock E Force, 9 pounds of boost. Made 520hp on a Mustang dyno(close to 600 on Dynojet). It was rich at wot put, afr in the 10s. on Edelbrocks tune. I was thinking of getting a custom tune for more power and to lean it out to mid 12s at wot. Now I'm thinking of just leaving the Edelbrock tune after reading this thread. Thinking Edelbrocks rich tune would keep the pistons cooler and help avoid this broken piston issue?

AFR in 10s... eeekkkk... that is way way to rich for DI.. BUT

Keep the timing out of it and leave it rich and it should last...

Yes we do. Pretty much the only way to do it right.

Billy, Does that price include all parts and labor? Thanks again for your time/reply..:thumbs:

No thats the R/R labor, honing block and reassembly. You are very welcome.

On relatively low HP FI builds (550RWHP-625RWHP), when the pistons go, are they damaging any other part of the engine, or is it typically just the ringlands? Also, when the engine is rebuilt, is there any additional work which needs to be done besides the piston replacement, such as boring it over .005", boroscope inspection, full inspection, etc..
Just trying to get a better sense of what typically happens following this seemingly common failure mode.

I wouldn't say this is a "common failure" the vast majority of stock piston LT1s are doing just fine. They are just limited to a certain HP, once you push past it you're going to have issues.

This thread makes it sound like supercharger will implode your engine on first start.

Keep it under 10psi, run it little richer, keep timing under 12-14, and have alcohol injection and you will be fine for long long time...

I messed up my ring land by running race gas, 15psi, shit load of timing and i was just asking for...

When the lands break we haven't seen them do any other damage. You Just get a lot of blow by and loss of power. We deglaze the cylinders, no boring.