HB Replacement - Time frame ?
 

Sooner or later it was bound to happen. :ack:
Taking into consideration I got all of the proper tools needed :

Metric Sockets and wrenches,
Metric Flare Wrenches ( P/S line removal from P/S Rack )
Metric Crows Foot Wrenches,
HB Removal and install tools,
Flywheel locking tool,
150lb and 250lb Torque wrenches,
Crank Seal
Factory Service Manual

HB- DAYCO PB1117N
ARP Bolt - 2342503 Stud Kit
Seal - ACDELCO 29602( OEM Part Number(s): 12561244, 12585673 )


Am I missing anything ?

Possible usage of a lift for the day....I HOPE !

Barring any unforeseen problems ( crap happens, we all know that Murphy likes to stick his nose in where it don't belong ) what kind of time frame am i looking at from start to finish?

I have turned many wrenches in my day so I'm no 1st Timer, well a 1st timer at replacing a HB on a C5 :rofl:

Check the belt tensioners especially the drive one.

The wobbling can make the spring inside get fatigued and also the body gets pulled forward away from the section of it bolted to the water pump.

We always change both belts and about 20% of the time one or more of the tensioners or idlers need to be changed.

Didn't even think about the belt tensioners and pulleys DUH !

Thanks :cheers:

Your tools and parts list look good. Has far as time frame you can probably do it in a day. When I did mine I took my time. Mines just a toy. Take your time and do it right. Also change the pulleys while your there. It can be time consuming. The hardest part I had was getting one line off of the steering rack I had to cut it and got a used one from Mark at vette nuts.

Mine isn't a DD either so I'm really in no rush but.....being I'll be using the lift here at my job I'd like to get it done ASAP. I'm thinking I can get it started on a Saturday morning and be done and driving it home by that afternoon.

Good thought! :thumbs:

I focused on everything else (oil pump, water pump, etc "since I was there"). :D
Thought about the drive tensioner, but not the others. Replaced the A/C tensioner one week later, :ack: and figured I might as well throw in the PS tensioner "since I was there." Not hard to change these, but it would have been sensible to have done it while the belts were already off.
Appreciate your insight. :thumbs:

Took me about 12 hours over a few weeks time to do this (on my back) All tensioners, pulleys,belts were done including oil seal and ARP bolt.

I also decreased and cleaned everywhere I worked

I found a trick that you can do away with the fly wheel holding tool. Here is a link:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ving-bolt.html

I used this method when I replaced my balancer and it worked great.

Moved to C5 Tech.

Here ya go Lou baby...:D

Heres what I got for my 2004

12568181-----Tensioner
12560345-----Tensioner
12557334-----Pulley
12564401-----Pulley

and you already know about the Power Bond and Belts...I just went ahead and bought ACDelco/GM belts...I have always liked them

These are the GM part numbers but if you buy the parts by the ACDelco part numbers it is cheaper…same exact part…boxes had both part numbers on them…eh…

maybe a new cover seal also…

I had mine done and I watched...I was exhausted......it took him 4 hours of non stop work...I could have never done it in a million years so it was done perfect...he said had done hundreds of balancers in the past 15 years...99 % on Vettes...

Good luck Lou... :cheers::flag:

Thanks for the part numbers. :cheers:
I already have the timing cover seal. :thumbs:

Lou

Done this task several times. The dampener removal and reinstall can be a real PITA. The Hub is very tightly interference fit on the crank.

If you heat the damper center hub with a heat gun or small propane torch (to approx 150 deg) it will press OFF & ON a WHOLE lot easier.

The power steering line fittings have a very small O ring on the part that inserts into the PS Body. In the past, I have seen damaged O rings. May want to purchase them just as a WHAT IF.

Be careful and don't loose the steering rack bushing on the passengers side of the rack. Those bushings seem to have a mind of their own and end up hiding. You can upgrade to a urethane bushing for a better steering feel.

I never completely remove the rack. Move it out of the drivers side a few inches and push the passengers side forward and down. Gives you ample room. IF,,, you have to drop the K member to bet enough room to pop the rack out, DO NOT use power tools to loosen the K member bolts.

Be careful when removing the MAGNASTEER electrical connector from the rack. They get brittle.

Good time to completely replace the power-steering fluid 100%. Have a refill qty on hand.

Bill

Excellent...:cheers:

As usual thanks for making repairs look so easy Bill...
I'll call on you next time I need to take apart my Rolex,
maybe even my space ship...although I can do easy stuff...like heart surgery...:jester

Thanks for the heads up Bill :cheers:

Steering lines are more accessible through the driver's side wheel well. I always just get the o-rings that Bill mentioned and replace them. They are only a couple of bucks.

I never had an issue completely removing the rack from the car. If you move the tie rods as you manipulate the rack it goes to the passenger side first then down and out the driver's side. This always allowed me to set it into a position where the fluid wouldn't leak out.

Im on the Rolex Forum quite a bit. I enjoy repairing the Submariners the most.

Have not ventured in to Rocket Sugery yet. Its a goal.

I will leave the HEART surgery to you. :D

Bill

Thank you sir...I am just an old back yard mechanic and I am or at least use to be good at wiping my own butt...anyhoo, I DO understand lots of things that you do a good job at explaining .....:thumbs::flag:

These O-Rings? Dealer of Parts Store ?
Size? Reason I ask is, If i'm going to be using the lift at work I'd like to have everything on hand so I don't have to run around to different auto parts stores with O-Ring in hand asking..."Do you have these in stock"

Follow what I'm getting at ?