C1 Third arm bearing replacement
 

I'm going to replace the third arm bearing in my '60. I am going to do a complete front end rebuild sometime in the near future (hopefully), but right now I am getting up and down movement on the third arm when I turn the wheels when it is up on jackstands. So I think my bearing must be bad. I have saved PDF's from previous threads on rebuilding the front end, but I have a couple of questions specific to the bearing replacement that I didn't see covered in those articles.

1. CORRECT BEARING.

I know the big vendors carry the bearing, but those are all Chinese and I do not want to go that route. I found this bearing on Ebay, which is the same number shown in a thread from 2014.

A) Can anyone confirm this is the correct bearing I need?

B) Other 5506 bearings I have seen have a snap ring groove, but I believe that style is NOT the correct bearing. Am I corrrect there is no snap ring groove in the bearing for the third arm?

2. BEARING SEALS.

I have read the bearing seals from the vendors are not really worth buying.

A) Assuming my present seals are bad, does anyone have a recommendation for an alternative seal?

3. REMOVE JUST THE UPPER THIRD ARM ONLY.

As I am doing just the bearing only at this time, I am hoping I can remove just the upper half of the third arm and not have to remove the lower part that is bolted to the crossmember.

A) Can I remove just the upper half of the third arm by unbolting the tie rods ends and drag link from the pitman arm and then removing the bearing stud nut and pop off the third arm?

B) If I can do it that way, will I need to get the front end realigned when I put the third arm back on?

Thanks for any help on this.

Terry

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Might be some useful information here if you haven't already seen this thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...bearing-2.html

Dave Z

Thanks Dave. Yes, that is the thread I had read earlier.

Terry

Sealed Timken version from Summit:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-5206kse

Another how to.

http://rarecorvettes.com/RARE/SteeringLinkage.html

Thanks John. I do like the sealed bearing over the one I posted, except for the price. $44 for the Timken vs $6 for the NDH.

Terry

related question
 

Don't mean to hijack the thread, rather just to ask a related question and get educated...what's the best way to determine whether or not the third arm bearing needs replacement ?

Turning the wheels with front end elevated & looking for up and down movement of the 3rd arm as mentioned or another way ?

Thanks-

Can someone please clue me in on this ? Thanks. :thumbs:

There should be virtually no up-down movement of the center steering arm. If there is side-to-side movement, then other parts of the steering/suspension are loose.
The bearing is a snug fit in the pocket and the big bolt that goes through it should retain it firmly. Thus, no up-down movement, if the bearing is in excellent condition.

In the past, when it became obvious that some parts (such as bearings) were becoming increasingly difficult to get------------as well as pricy, I would buy them when I could. I now have a few versions of the 5206 bearing for the center steering arm. Some are sealed on both sides, some are sealed on one side (with a shield on the other side) and some are open.
The best that I have run across so far is the BCA/Federal Mogul 5206FFH. It has good seals on both sides. I don't think I've paid over $25 for any of them. I have about 10 on the shelf, including 2 EXCELLENT used ones, one of which is an original New Daparture.


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I saw your 2018 post on the third arm bearing. Do you have one of the Federal Mogul 5206FFH beatings that you would be willing to sell?

Joseph Tarillion
tarillioniii@sbcglobal.net
262 894-0550

What is the best way to remove the bearing from the housing?

Third arm bearing puller
 

I found a post of one of the Forum members who had fabricated a bearing puller for the third arm bearing and machined one of my own. It worked so well that I did two other third arm bearings for a friend. I would be happy to let you use the puller that I made if you are interested In doing your own.

Thank you Joseph! I found the post that you are referring to and am going to build my own puller. I appreciate your response and offer. Thank you!

If you have a snap on puller, you will find that the threads are the same of the shaft. I simply threaded it together and used 2 bolts
to pull it off. Very easy.

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This may be a dumb question, but if the bearing I have is sealed on both sides, do I still pack the cavity with grease as ST-12 says? What would it be lubricating?
Thanks

Could you post pics? or give a link to the post you refer to, I haven't found it. Thanks