Battery Recommendations
 

I have a 1965 with an OEM 327 / 300, and I drive the car an average of one time per week (during the winter) and probably 2-3 times per week in the summer. The car sits in a warm garage in sunny Southern California year round and never goes near cold weather. I have no A/C in the car.

My battery is dead and I need a new one. Based on above, is there any clear cut leader for a replacement battery? I am not trying to score NCRS rating points.

Thanks.

Tons of threads on this - ranging from El Cheapo units from Rural King to more upscale products like NAPA's Legend line. Do a search and you'll get beau coup info..

No - there is no clear cut leader...

I have a Delco battery that is going on nine years that doesn’t use a battery tender and cold winters

I found a few threads and did some reading. I'm going to go with the Interstate brand. I've had good luck with their batteries in my other cars (none of which are old collectibles).

The car currently has an Optima, yellow top battery in it - which is the battery that came with the car when I bought it. I have a trickle charger, but I just don't like the idea of leaving a charger going when I'm not present in the garage.

I was surprised to see lots of favorable feedback on the Walmart line of car batteries. I would have never guessed on that one.

THANKS.

Napa Legend or Duralast Gold. Tough to beat a 5 year warranty these days.

bat dead?
should it be?
old?

no bat is going to last if there is a drain

If you go the Interstate route Buy from Costco. If theres a problem with the battery Costco will exchange up to 24 months no questions ask and after the free replacement period the pro rated scale is more generous than any parts store.

Get a Delco size 24 that fits it.

If you have the stock '65 battery hold down, your problem will be the battery configuration. Check to make sure the top hold down fits without having to cut off strap tabs or some other part of the battery. Most modifications will void the warranty.

I also have a 65 and bought a 7524 Group 24 from NAPA for $120

I had a Delco that lasted 16 years. I wonder if they screwed up when they built it for it to last that long. I replaced it with another Delco 24 last year. Problem I had is that it didn't have the lip on the bottom of the battery, where the hold down bracket is suppose to grip (unique to a '67' I think). Didn't realize it until I got it home. I took it back and questioned them about it as I bought it from a local Corvette parts shop. Nobody knew or really cared. It had a lip but a little high. I had to fabricate a similar bracket which worked and is almost undetectable. I assumed that a 24 Series was a perfect fit, not so.

My car sits for long periods. I use an Optima Yellow Top. I bought it used so long ago that I can't remember when.

I've let it go dead once or twice and it came back good as new each time.

It does require modification to the existing or a different hold down. They are a bit smaller than the stock hold down but will fit with some simple shims and I did this for a long time.

I found a top frame from the Tri-Five Group in billet aluminum that fits perfectly and can accomodate either the top or side posts models.

https://www.ruralking.com/battery-525-cca.html

Why pay 2-3 times as much?

I've been buying these batteries for about 7 years. Probably 20 in total. Some are 7 years old and still good. Most are around 2-5 years old and still good. Out of the total, I had one that went bad in 12 months and I got a free replacement.

Seems like a clear choice to me.

WalMart is a good alternative but they priced themselves out of my market.

Install a disconnect switch to eliminate parasitic drain! Just yesterday I calculated the ages of the batteries installed in four of my cars: 17 years 6 months; 17 years 1 month; 15 years 5 months; 19 years 0 months and still working perfectly. All batteries are either Sears Die Hard or Sears Plus Start 60 in Group 24. No climate controlled storage or battery tenders involved, just cut-off switches to eliminate drain.

Here's an update: Yesterday I decided to wake one of my cars from its winter slumber of approximately four months. The 17 years, 1 month old Sears Plus Start 60 battery performed flawlessly powering the electric fuel pump and the starter motor. It was a good afternoon for a drive, cold, but with snow and salt gone from the roads. I remain convinced that battery disconnect switches are essential for all vehicles that are not in regular use.
http://i68.tinypic.com/e04nm8.jpg

Unless there's something wrong with your car, where would a drain come from on one of these old plugs?

the clock :cheers:

A mechanical OEM-style clock is one constant drain, a quarts movement is bare milliamps. Other than that (unless a glove box light or something is constantly on) there shouldn't be anything...

I put a relay on my mechanical clock, its only on for shows/judging...so my car can sit for weeks with no issue with battery connected...

:iagree: I'm a believer in this. I've had good success too w/the disconnect switches with my several batteries lasting 7 to 10 years on the old cars that don't get driven much more than once a month, typically. 15 to 19 years, in your case, is way beyond my experience, but something I'll try to shoot for. Sometimes, I've replaced a 9 y/o battery just because its been getting harder to start, but, maybe I've given up too soon. :thumbs:

I also really like the "safety" concept of the shut off switches. :thumbs:

Used optimas for many yrs, last couple didnt cut it, wouldnt take afull charge; Delcos if I was lucky would get 2 yrs..so I bought a $49 walmart battery for the camino couldnt beleve how long that thing would crank withohut giving up even with a lower CCA..impressed
So my Delco recently took a dump in my DD bought Walmarts "best" $89 so far love it. Why spend a bunch if you dont have to?
I was leery about it but will never spend a bunch on a battery again

Used disconnects also just in case.

15+ yrs ago the optimas, Interstates Delccos were hassle proof not so sure anymore
Walmart even sells gel batteries

The clock is not a constant drain. It is a drain only when the points close to engergize the solenoids. I don't know how many "clicks" is would take to drain a battery but I suspect it would be many thousands.