engine cleaning
 

what is a good way to clean my LS3 for a car show? soap and water, spray cleaner then protectant? Brand names for protectant please.

Once you do an overall cleaning, like with a power washer, etc. the next best tip I was ever given when I was showing my '78 is WD40. Not only does it dissolve much of the dirt, it freshens everything black, especially plastic. I was told this tip by a judge some years ago when showing my car at Chevy Vettefest. I now use it regularly under the hood. I have passed that tip on to many, and some challenge it, as I am sure some here will, but it cleans everything very well and is non harmful, as it is fish oil. The best spot to use it is in the door jams where you can never get in there to clean. Soak it; let it drip out and that spot will be cleaner than ever! After I learned that tip, I rarely lost points under the hood!

I use Greased Ligthning sprayed on a cool engine. Let is sit for a couple of minutes then use non pressure garden hose to rinse. A good dry rag wipe down and pressurized air to remove pooled water, sand and grit that didn't wash out. Follow with your preferred dressing, such as Aerospace Protectant 303 or any others. I do this every spring. Keeps engine and compartment clean.

Link to fish oil claim?

Armorall Protectant, and few old rags, a screwdriver, and a few hours. Use the screwdriver with a rag wrapped around it to get to those places you cant reach otherwise. I have won many placqes with my car. Sorry, dont have any underhood pics, but here are the plaques.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...81b8ad31d0.jpg

Most are first place...one Best of Show (over 100 cars entered).

I use one of these parts cleaning brushes for the hard-to-reach places, available at Advanced or any auto supply.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wc...2_pri_larg.jpg

Sorry gang; I got called out! It is does not contain fish oil. I do know for sure the name stands for Water Displacer 40th formula, and it was designed for the military and is not technically a lubricant; it is to prevent moisture damage. I have not found anything better for under hood detailing. Yes Greased Lightning and the other degreasers are very good for initial cleaning, but to make things look new, you can't beat WD40. I have over 60 trophies in my trophy case to back it up! It would make a '78 look new under the hood. Armorall is OK; but tends to attract dust/dirt and doesn't hold up too well long term. Be careful with it on rubber/plastics as well. It used to be petroleum based and with that it would act as a solvent on those type of materials. A tire man once told me to never use it on tires, though I am sure today it is OK. The true test I was told was to test for petroleum, spray in some water and see what it does. Water based will mix in, petroleum based will bead. Before your next show, spray all the plastics, hoses, etc with WD40; Let it sit a bit and anywhere you have overspray or residue wipe it clean! I only learned this from a judge who had won and judged many a car show. Try it in dirty door jams. Doak them down and let it drip out; the only way I could ever clean there on my '78. I coated the wheel wells; makes them look factory fresh as well. I have never seen any ill effects using it for many years!

After standard cleaning, I use Meguiar's Ultimate Black to dress up the plastics/rubber. Does a pretty good job

Since mine never gets driven in the rain.....:hide:....my engine compartment never really gets dirty. Just a little dusty. Just any small tool that will let you rag out the nooks and crannies and a damp towl works for me. I know at some point i'll probably have to start with some kind of conditioner, but am holding off as long as possible cause once you start with the Armour All or similar product then you are destined to use it forever......:cool:

Good video, thanks for sharing.

I made the mistake of spraying WD40 on the engine bay of my Yukon Denali thinking it would provide a good barrier (protect) when traveling in Canada during the winter. Instead, that stuff attracted and held all the salt spray which eventually corroded all the metal parts. I will never use WD40 on metal parts again. However, it's great on getting tar spots off of vehicles.

How do you know you wouldn't have the same outcome if you HADN'T used WD40?

Salt will rust/corrode all metal; the only way to prevent it is to hibernate your car for the winter.

This is all way too labor intensive for me. I use spray on tire shine. Doesn't matter the brand, whatever is cheapest. Spray it on and watch the dirt all foam off. Leaves you with a nice shine on everything. Try it and I'll bet you like it.

It was quite evident the WD40 'held' the salt spray that entered the engine compartment. A good litmus test was determined from areas I had missed compared to the areas I hit with the solvent. There's no doubt it affected what occurred.

:iagree:

Interesting . . . :)

Same here.

When I picked my '07 up from the dealer four years ago, it looked and smelled brand new from top to bottom. They did great doll-up. (oops, I guess the modern term is "detail." It's like "ft-lbs" has been changed to "lb-ft" for some inexplicable reason. You can tell which generation a poster is from by which one they use. https://s14.postimg.org/5ayv2y48h/confused_2.gif)

The engine compartment still looks the same as when I picked it up, and all I do is wipe everything off every month or so during the summer.

I have a Jeep Wrangler and religiously use Fluid Film to coat the underbody. It provides a protective coating to keep any salt from adhering to the frame. Once applied, it does attract dirt and the such, and it builds up a crust that keeps the contaminants from touching the metal. It's good stuff.

I thought the WD40 would act in the same way, but instead of wiping the offensive crap off, it captured the salt and absorbed through it. Nothing wiped away, and it turned the engine bay into a nightmare. Probably my fault for assuming, but I learned my lesson.

Link
 

More like cockroach pheromone, but no fish oil per this link.

I use a vacuum and high pressure hose for the loose sand and dirt a damp rag for the flat surfaces that the vac and air hose wont dislodge then I go over the shiny parts with a detailer. Dont matter which the thing to remember is to use the final step at the show as it will attract dust on the way there. Also carry a detailers brush for the cracks. Also I use a detailers pick for the impossible places . Its a pencil shaped thing with a plastic nose. Use either that or an actual pencil with no point.Ive used this method for many years bringing home 42 trophys 29 1sts 5 Best in Division and one Best in show. You have to develope your own technique. There is no SILVER BULLET. It takes hard work
Some are not willing to put the time in. It doesnt just happen , you gotta work for it. Dont make yourself crazy. Nice and easy wins the race. Have fun

Clif