repair cracks or new clip
 

My 68 was painted five years ago and the headlight stress cracks and top fender stress cracks were to be repaired. It was a lousy cover up repair and since the cracks have come back.
The paint looks great other then where the cracks are starting to lift up the paint and ruin the overall looks. It is quite noticeable
I could have the cracks repaired and the front end repainted, however I am dealing with 50 year old fiberglass, and I am not sure I can find someone who knows how to fix the cracks correctly. In a way in which you won't see the repair job later on as the paint shrinks etc. and the cracks not showing up through the paint.
Thought this might be the time to just replace the front clip with a complete fiberglass from end clip, and have that repainted.
I think i would spend much more money in having the cracks fixed and then the repair job to be questionable, then getting an all new fiberglass front end. $1,500 for a front clip.
Just don't know how hard it would be to install this or the cost to have a body shop do the installation work.
Anyone with the experience of replacing their front clip?
It took about three year on a new paint job for the cracks to show up through the paint.
Not trying to keep it original, so an aftermarket front end is no big deal.

Okay, logic would suggest a new front clip is cheaper but trust me, that may not be the case. I replace the front clip on my 1971 restoration and something that is often missed is you have to still mount the inner fenders to a new clip by either buying new ones or removing your existing ones. That takes time and costs money, lots of it. If I had to do it again I would repair the clip that was on the car.

If you want to see more on this let me know and I can direct you to my thread where this is covered.

My two cents.

David Howard

I would wait and investigate what is causing these cracks to re-appear.

I know I would not suggest replacing the front clip with a hand laid front clip until i actually ground into these areas and determined what the problem was.

In most cases...it was a poor repair due to someone did not repair it correctly.

And...just because you buy a new froth clip...I can tell you that you are opening up the chance that 'other' things come up even after you have it installed and painted. Mainly due to it is a hand laid part made by people....and it ALL depends on the quality of the part itself.

You original body parts were press molded and thus...are actually better. So...IF I had to replace a panel. I would install a press molded top hood surround panel. And that alone is still not easy task for those who do not know what they are doing. It obviously is not impossible...but many things that need to be check verified prior to it being bonded in place.

DUB

You get a $10,000 paint job and a screwing, then you want to find the best route to go to fix the problem correctly.
I did a soda blasting (as you can see on you tube, soda blasting a 1968 corvette ) this was in Princeton Texas. The paint job was done in Randolph Texas by Main Street Paint and Body. I later found out he never knew anything about working on fiberglass. He had his half blind helper who had worked for Mac truck doing some glass work on their trucks many years ago, do my glass work. "What a joke" and you can see it in the repairs he did.
Anyway I am now so very cautious on which way to go to have it done right.
Not really wanting to do this all over again and another $10,000. I have already well surpassed the value of this car. But it had been a 25 year project and I do enjoy driving it.

I can CLEARLY UNDERSTAND your concern. TRUST ME...I really know what you are feeling and trying to achieve.

But in the same breathe...I am still cautious and do some investigating prior to spending other peoples money.

Now knowing that it was soda blasted...is also another concern due to I do not believe in that method to remove paint on Corvette bodies. I know other people will swear by it...and that is fine..but I am not going that route due to I have been stripping paint off of these bodies for decades with NO PROBLEMS and I am not going to switch over 100% and try the 'new thing' to make my life easier and have it come back and bite me in the backside later. I did tried it on parts ..I did not like it...thus I stay with what I know works for me.

DUB

Ok, now I am thinking I will find a good boat fiberglass repair shop and see if they can handle my problems. They are well familiar with fiberglass than most body shops.
Soda blasting did not cause the cracks it was just a way to get many years of paint jobs off quickly and start at the beginning with bare fiberglass.
Soda blasting is probably the most friendly paint removal system that can be used. The con is getting all the soda completely off the car before painting.
They make a special chemical to use to wash the car down prior to painting, but that too is expensive.

Repair of what you have now depends on the type of paint you have. If you have a solid color which can be easily matched, reinforce the cracked areas from the backside (experts on this Forum can advise on that) to stabilize them. If you have metallic paint, it will be pretty difficult to match well on the nose (very visible area).

You might want to call someone in a Corvette car club in your area and see if they have a body/paint person they go to for such repairs.

Hopefully you find the place that can do this for you and get the results you desire.

We do have different views on what is what and how to do this and that. And I am not here to get into all that.

I just hope when you get it done..it is what you want.

DUB

Can you direct the rest of us that have similar issues to the thread werre this was covered?

If you are asking to be directed to a thread that deal with body cracks and repair issues. That is almost impossible ...unless....the thread is dealing with the exact same type of problem.

When it comes to body repairs...often times...the area where the cracks or damage is...in relation to the stresses that the body can go under...can directly effect the type of repair that is made to ensure the repair is solid. Some repairs may take a few more steps or considerations due to the added stress that that particular panel is being put under.

If you have specific body repair issues....it is best to start your own thread an ask for advice and post it in the 'paint and body' section....or any other sections you feel will work of you to get the best feedback.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/paint-body-138/

DUB

how to install front clip

Best write up with pics i have seen,

Im in the same boat as many builders on here and we dont just toss money at things to make it happen,

I bought a new in the box ecklers 68 69 front clip that the guy threw in the press molded inner fenders for 350-400, total,

My press molded L88 hood with air box was 125

no, my way isnt purist correct nor is it the fastest, it takes time and hunting to build for cheap,

I have PPG Base Coat Clear Coat.
The crack are around the rectangle area of where the headlights open. Picture a rectangle and put cracks in all four corners of the rectangle box and that is what I have. Some crack show very little paint lifting, but others, show cracks lifting the paint very noticeable.
Could have been somewhat caused by the pressure put on this area when the vacuum lifts the head light doors.
May have been started by the heavy mechanic who leaned over the front of the car when removing the engine, and other equipment.
I made the mistake of having the engine installed after the paint job." Not Good. "
If I can get the cracks properly repaired then I think I could get by with just painting the front end and the paint should still match with the doors.

Knowing that your cracks are in the four corners of your headlight opening. They can be a little bit of fun to repair...but not impossible.

The metal reinforcement that is riveted to the front edge of your top hood surround CAN come into play when the area is being prepped for lamination.

The same holds true for the cracks in the rear of tehehadlight opening. the header support bar oe beam may be an issue.

I do know that with careful prep and lamination skills...these repairs can be laminated from the top surface and hold...but it will take patience and understanding on how the fiberglass mat can work with you or against you. ESPECIALLY when the person is attempting to make the rolled edge and width of the panel like the factory did....which is what will be providing the strength in this repair.

DUB

I could pull out the headlight doors and headlights vacuum assembly, the grill, etc. to allow more room to get up under the headlight doors to try and repair from underneath as best as possible and the rest perhaps could be reinforced from the top side.
That is why I suggested a boat repair shop. They might be able to gel coat the area where the mat is being place so the fiberglass mat will not show up through the final paint.

I agree with using the correct gelcoat on the top of your repair.

Removing the headlight assemblies ...or the parts needed for better access is wise but you may find that the metal supports and braces may still come into play and effect any repair that is needed or wanting to be applied on the backside.

You can clearly see what I am referring to when you raise the headlight door up and have the bezel removed. The metal support that is riveted to the very front of your top hood surround is rather tight against that fiberglass.

DUB

Your existing clip fits and is original, I assume. Even if you have to remove and reinstall nose to repair the back side, it is less work than removing that nose and making a new one line up, getting inner fenders in the right place, and the build quality of many aftermarket noses, are below that of OEM, including the one in my yard. I have a 50 year old glass boat. The only glass that degraded was the gas tanks after ethanol got them.

:iagree:
Factory glass normally is better,
Yes. I understand your point and post :thumbs:

My ecklers. One piece 68 69 clip is very nice, a skilled person laid it up, the headlight bar is metal. Some cheesedick it and use fiberglass,

I plan to use it on my 69 because finding a factory 68 69 front clip isnt easy or cheap and my car is a monster anyway, but im Doing a tilt clip actually makes a lot of it easier,
But yeah, try to keep that factory clip, it likely is far better than aftermarket.