So What Wires Do I Jump To Bypass Neutral Safety Switch(Pics Included)
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Am I even looking in the right place?
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It would help to know year and which transmission you have.
On the Auto trans the switch is in the center console. That picture looks like it could be the steering column. |
Originally Posted by belairbrian
(Post 1597214957)
It would help to know year and which transmission you have.
On the Auto trans the switch is in the center console. That picture looks like it could be the steering column. |
Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
(Post 1597215449)
85 has a clutch pedal switch. It's up there quite a ways. 2 black wires off the switch into a connector. One green one purple wire on the other side of the connector.
EDIT: Or cut the two black ones and join them thereby leaving main harness intact in case I ever do want to replace the switch. |
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Locate the clutch switch top of clutch pedal, unplug switch and use a 'jumper'. Yes you could cut and connect the wires on the switch side but then again 'maybe' it only requires an adjustment.
Wires @ harness side I thought DK GRN/WHT and YEL. You've got the FSM check and confirm Why are you wanting to 'jump/bypass'? Attachment 48285255 |
Had to bypass the switch on my 86 a few years ago so pulling this off memory. Up by the pivot on the clutch there's a switch, that's the one you're interested in - not the lower one which disengages the cruise control.
Pull the connector off the upper switch which is a 2 wire connector. IIRC they are female spade connectors. Make a simple jumper and jumper the 2 wires that connector contains. Done. If you jumper it, you can return it to original condition if the switch is ever replaced or fixed, no changes to the wiring. You can now start the car without depressing the clutch. If you do it, insure that anyone driving or moving the car understands this modification was made to it. Update - WVZR responded while I was writing, like the picture. |
Don't Do It!
IMHO fix the switch - don't bypass it! Sooner of later, you, or someone else, will reach in the window and start it up (for whatever reason) and watch it drive itself into a wall, another car, or worse yet, an innocent bystander. At a cruise in a few years ago, a guy with an old hot rod had this happen when he reached in to start it. It backed up a hill dragging him along and t-boned a tree after narrowly missing a family sitting on a blanket. Broke his ankle or leg in the process. I'm pretty sure he NEVER thought it could happen to him... Neutral Safety Switch = Good Thing.
Regards, John |
When you find it, it should have relatively heavy gauge wire going to it. Make sure you jump it with similar gauge.
I understand it's a safety thing but like all the manual cars I've driven are from the 50s so I'm used to it. Every time I start it I also always go to neutral just out of habit. When i got into a new manual car it took me a while to figure out why it wouldn't start as the p/o is the one who bypassed the switch... then it clicked lol. I recommend fixing it. I just don't fit under there anymore to do it. |
Originally Posted by WhiteC1
(Post 1597216070)
IMHO fix the switch - don't bypass it! Sooner of later, you, or someone else, will reach in the window and start it up (for whatever reason) and watch it drive itself into a wall, another car, or worse yet, an innocent bystander. At a cruise in a few years ago, a guy with an old hot rod had this happen when he reached in to start it. It backed up a hill dragging him along and t-boned a tree after narrowly missing a family sitting on a blanket. Broke his ankle or leg in the process. I'm pretty sure he NEVER thought it could happen to him... Neutral Safety Switch = Good Thing.
Regards, John |
FWIW...
AT ISSUE is the relatively high starter (solenoid) current and the damage arching does to the (internal) switch contacts. Same switch issue with the 90-92 ZR-1s too. But, in 93 the switch was routed to a starter (solenoid) relay instead of directly to the starter solenoid. This resulted in reducing the current through the clutch safety switch - the contacts, and greatly improved the reliability/longevity of that safety switch. Assuming the wiring for the ZR-1 and std cars is essentially the same (far as the starter circuit is concerned), Cliff's SOLUTIONS section has an article describing the installation of a (bypass) relay near the battery that essentially upgrades the starter circuit to that of the 93+ cars. If you have the least bit of agility to do some simple electrical work, this little upgrade might keep you from being stranded at some point, and also extend the life of that (nasty to get to) safety switch! :cheers: |
I 'GET' the safety!
I asked the OP why in my post! #6 We don't know that it's for diagnostics or whatever! Knowing how difficult the switches are to procure a 'push-button' is a very reasonable approach if a person wants to retain the safety features. Should be a very simple 'solution' for the safety. Mine isn't by-passed but I did do it for some 'intermittent crank' diagnostics many years ago. |
OK, here's the whole story: First ,all of your comments are being considered, I am thinking about replacing it.
1) I also have 1963 Corvair Spyder that I drive daily so I am in the habit of "clutching" first. Heck it didn't even have seat belts much less safety switches when I first bought it. 2) I have bad carpal tunnel and my fingers ache and aren't as nimble as they used to be. 3) I'm 72 years old and can't twist, turn and bend the way I used to. 4) I am also on a fixed income and have to watch my pennies where I can. However, as I said, I am definitely reading and considering ALL replies. Thank You All Very Much Frank EDIT: I only have 1/2 the hush panel released, today I will remove it completely and see if I fit under there and can reach the switch. |
The 'only' safety device my Corvair had when I bought it was a note taped to the dash
CHECK OIL WHEN GETTING GAS Push rod tube seals and I removed the note - that note on a dealers lot saved me much money both on the price of the car and I never ran it out of oil. Never did figure out why the dealer left the note on the dash. Guess he had a 'conscious' LOL All of the projects ever involved in with a manual trans I only remember one fellow asking about 'adding' a clutch safety switch. He was sure he didn't need it but was thinking about 'the kids'. We gave him a 'push-button/momentary'. I don't know of a C4 owner that once by-passed has ever added a 'momentary' or actually regretted the by-pass. |
[QUOTE=WVZR-1;1597218499]The 'only' safety device my Corvair had when I bought it was a note taped to the dash
CHECK OIL WHEN GETTING GAS If the rear grill was black, wet and dripping that constituted an "OIL CHECK" right?? :rofl: |
This is a CorVETTE, not a CorVAIR forum so I'll only make one last Corvair comment........having had my Spyder for 10 years I can vouch for the adage every Corvair owner knows, " every time you park a Corvair the first thing it does is mark it's territory". Your friends tremble when you visit them and park in their driveway.
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I like the notion of replacing the switch if defective. When I had my master and slave replaced and the switch got screwed up, I could not find a replacement. Didn't find any new ones and the only used one I found was bad. In my case I had the choice of parking the car or jumpering that switch - you know how I went.
Everyone saying to replace the switch, do you know where a new replacement can be found? I would put one back in if I could find one. |
Originally Posted by hcbph
(Post 1597221018)
I like the notion of replacing the switch if defective. When I had my master and slave replaced and the switch got screwed up, I could not find a replacement. Didn't find any new ones and the only used one I found was bad. In my case I had the choice of parking the car or jumpering that switch - you know how I went.
Everyone saying to replace the switch, do you know where a new replacement can be found? I would put one back in if I could find one. |
Originally Posted by stabac
(Post 1597221140)
OMG! That's exactly what happened to me. I never mentioned it in any of my posts but I just had the Master and Slave replaced about 3 weeks ago and after that each time I started it I had to push harder on the clutch until a few days ago I couldn't push any harder and it won't start. I'm scheduled next week to have the switch replaced, and the service manager said no problem if he has to he can go to GM and get one. I have searched the web for 2 days and can not find a 1985 switch...NO WHERE. Did you ever determine what caused yours to fail?
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...826945a9f3.jpg JB CORVETTE PARTS list the 86+ safety switch as being available. BTW, keeping with good company, my first car out of HS - 1962 corvette coupe. kind of looked like this -- https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...dbf30ea252.jpg some might say, they don't build them like that anymore, and I say, thank gawd for that.... |
Originally Posted by stabac
(Post 1597221140)
Did you ever determine what caused yours to fail?
Finally after about 6-8 weeks I was finally able to drive my car. I've not seen a replacement switch. Having grown up without any switches on the clutch I was accustomed to that, that's how it is and unless I stumble onto a working switch, that's the way it will stay. I have a little note I stick to the dash when I have to leave it with someone to work on, noting the switch is disabled. So far it's worked. PS Relating to this reference: JB CORVETTE PARTS list the 86+ safety switch as being available. I'm not finding anything on that website for parts. Either it's the wrong one or I don't know where to find their parts. |
Originally Posted by hcbph
(Post 1597222689)
Relating to this reference: JB CORVETTE PARTS list the 86+ safety switch as being available.
I'm not finding anything on that website for parts. Either it's the wrong one or I don't know where to find their parts. keenparts - I think they're a forum vendor - again, fleabay -- https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1996-C...wAAOSw3gJZJzKI and finally ecklers and fleabay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-Sw...YAAOSwSKtadmo8 a google search for the part shows it being available at various vendors and suppliers. this could be a new repro part that hasn't made it into the catalogs or websites just yet - ??? i'm hoping it's only the electrical connector that differs, and a cut and splice solves this issue for you pre-86 manual transmission guys -- :thumbs: |
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